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02-02-2013, 08:18 PM | #1 |
Not too old to learn
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: SoCal
Posts: 617
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?? Bleeding and adjusting brakes with power brake canister.
Just installed a new master cylinder and new power brake canister.
Did a bench bleed on master before installing and cleaned all the lines and installed new wheel cylinders. Began the air bleeding lines and filling them with fluid. Starting with right rear wheel my wife slowly pushed brake pedal while I opened and closed the bleed nut. Then moved to the left rear , after all air bubbles stopped there is not very much pedal. I expect the pedal to be up and firm with just two rear wheels. As this is is my first at bleeding a power brake system got other questions : 1.Do I need to start the engine and get vacuum to the canister while bleeding ? 2.Or can you feel some firmness in the pedal ? 3.How do I adjust the master cylinder push rod ? Thanks guys This is the one time I can direct my wife to do as I wish he he.
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1968 C10 a way to long restoration. |
02-02-2013, 08:40 PM | #2 |
Cluster King
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Junction City, OR
Posts: 5,263
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Re: ?? Bleeding and adjusting brakes with power brake canister.
Can you post a photo of the air bleeder you are using?
Did you bleed the front brakes? If you changed the master then you need to bleed the fronts as well. Are the front brakes disc or drum? You should not have to start the truck to bleed the brakes. It will not make any difference except for the muscles in your wife's thigh. The master cylinder push rod should have a jam nut inside the cab over the steering column. You should be able to loosen the jam nut and turn the rod in the direction you need. There is rarely ever a reason to do this even when replacing the booster or master. |
02-02-2013, 09:42 PM | #3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Topeka,KS
Posts: 778
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Re: ?? Bleeding and adjusting brakes with power brake canister.
You should bleed the master at the lines also, even after bench bleeding. Don't pump it just push down once and hold. Crack line loose. Start with the one closest to the firewall. Ideally you would have wanted to do this first. Then the rears. Then the fronts. You should have pedal now. Start it up and check pedal. Improperly adjusted shoes (not out far enough) can cause a low pedal. If after all this your pedal is still low. Then think about adjusting the master cyl. push rod.
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68' C20. 283CI w/55CC 305HO heads, NP435 Close Ratio, Corp. 14 bolt FF 3.21, 75' front end swap (everything but the X-member). |
02-03-2013, 12:57 AM | #4 | |
Not too old to learn
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: SoCal
Posts: 617
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Re: ?? Bleeding and adjusting brakes with power brake canister.
Quote:
The truck is stock shoe brakes. All lines were cleaned and empty.I did only the rear first then checked and stopped to see if any pedal. I intend to go through the procedure always starting with the furthest wheel from master LR RR RF LF. Only using the fluid pumped from master cylinder. I have always bleed non power assisted brakes.
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1968 C10 a way to long restoration. |
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02-03-2013, 01:18 AM | #5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Blountville, Tn.
Posts: 3,904
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Re: ?? Bleeding and adjusting brakes with power brake canister.
If i read correctly, you still need to bleed the front brakes. If you replaced the master cylinder then all 4 corners need bled. Which would cause a soft pedal.
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*We could learn a lot from crayons... Some are sharp; some are pretty;and some are dull. Some have weird names; and all are different colours;but they all have to live in the same box. * You may be only one person in the world, But you may also be the world to one person. * Some mistakes are too much fun to only make once. Two rules in life. 1. Never sweat the small stuff! 2. Everything is small stuff! |
02-03-2013, 12:02 PM | #6 |
Not too old to learn
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: SoCal
Posts: 617
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Re: ?? Bleeding and adjusting brakes with power brake canister.
Yes, that will be done next.
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1968 C10 a way to long restoration. |
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