57 tie rods

[LDO]

Has anyone replaced their old ball & socket stuff for new style tie rod ends? If so, what mods, if any, have to be done to the steering arms? According to this link, http://www.classictruckshop.com/t2_page2.php it doesn't say anything about taper reaming for tie rods but have heard some folks do it.
I know Sid provides this service but curious to hear from others here.

Any advice?

[dubie]

you have to remove the steering arms, drill a pilot hole through the back of the ball stud, then hog it out with a 1/2" drill bit and use a hammer and punch to drive it out. The new style tie rod end pops right into place, mounting underneath the steering arms. I just installed 1 on my 56

[LDO]

Originally Posted by dubie

you have to remove the steering arms, drill a pilot hole through the back of the ball stud, then hog it out with a 1/2" drill bit and use a hammer and punch to drive it out. The new style tie rod end pops right into place, mounting underneath the steering arms. I just installed 1 on my 56

Sounds easy enough (it never is). Thanks. Did you happen to snap any pics? I've got a buddy with a press that should be able to just press the old balls out, I'll run those steering arms by his shop this week.

[arturo7]

I'm leaving the ends alone and just replacing the guts. I think the Truck Stop sells this kit as well.

http://www.classicparts.com/1929-59-.../#.URACp_J42So

[Jeff56]

Dubie what aftermarket tierod ends did you use for that. Did you have to ream out the bottom of the steering arm
Posted via Mobile Device

[dubie]

no reaming at all. I ordered the tie rod and ends through CPP and once the ball stud was punched out, the new style was a simple bolt in application. I didn't take any pictures of the process but if you search for it, there's a couple good how to articles in Classic Trucks and Custom Classic Trucks magazine

[Coach529]

I pressed out my old ball studs with a press.....no drama at all.

[LDO]

Thanks everyone. I also got me tie rod and ends from cpp. Can't wait to get started.
Posted via Mobile Device

[dubie]

here's a great how to
http://www.classictrucks.com/tech/09...g_removal.html

[Jeff56]

Dubie what did you do to your draglink. Is it aftermarket or original. Heat and bend? Thanks
Posted via Mobile Device

[dubie]

the drag link is a new aftermarket piece. It didn't require any bending to make it turn better. I measured my turning radius from left to right and just extended my steering stop 3/4". You do however have to heat you steering arm up and bend it to avoid the dreaded bump steer. Or you can purchase the modified steering arm from Sid and just flip the drag link over. That would definitely be a lot less work

[LDO]

Originally Posted by dubie

the drag link is a new aftermarket piece. It didn't require any bending to make it turn better. I measured my turning radius from left to right and just extended my steering stop 3/4". You do however have to heat you steering arm up and bend it to avoid the dreaded bump steer. Or you can purchase the modified steering arm from Sid and just flip the drag link over. That would definitely be a lot less work

Now I'm confused (happens a lot). Do I use my stock steering arms or do I need to modify them (or buy)? I am running the stock axle but using Posies 3" drop springs. Also waiting for CPP to come out with their power steering upgrade kit. I only want to do this once.

How does the bend in the steering arm reduce/eliminate the bump steer?

[dubie]

you have to heat the steering arm with a torch until it's cherry red then we slid a 36" pipe wrench onto it to bend it downwards. You have to adjust the drag link so that it's parallel with the frame to eliminate bump steer. This is done using the original steering arm. See the attached pictures. The first one, notice how the drag link tilts upward in the front, creating a binding angle. The second picture shows the steering arm bent and the drag link in now running on the same level as the frame, causing no binding. You can buy the drag link and steering arm already modified for a lowered truck from Sids, or you can spend 30 minutes with a torch and a wrench and bend your stock arm. It's not for the faint at heart but works like a hot damn.

Also, look at page 3 of the link I posted above and see how they heated and bent the steering arm. This is done when you lower it with a dropepd axle and mono leafs so the process may not be needed or just not needed as much with just a 3" Posie spring drop

[LDO]

Thanks for the pics Dubie. That really helps along with the link you posted. Looks like I'll be heating up some metal soon!

[Dan in Pasadena]

Dubie, maybe I missed it but did the Posies ACTUALLY result in a full 3" drop? If its on the road now, would you recommend this method to lower or do you have any regrets over not having used a dropped axle?
Posted via Mobile Device

[dubie]

On my truck (which isn't on the road yet) I used a 3" dropped axle with mono leafs. I do know of a guy that was running this same set up and ended up changing his mono leafs out to Posies just so he could haul some weight and it resulted in the truck sitting 1" higher than it did with mono leafs.

[Jeff56]

Dubie did you buy your draglink fromm cpp as well or where did you get it. Thanks
Posted via Mobile Device

[dubie]

yup, it came from CPP as well. It looks exactly like the stock one except it's made from thicker material

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by dubie

...I do know of a guy that was running this same set up and ended up changing his mono leafs out to Posies just so he could haul some weight and it resulted in the truck sitting 1" higher than it did with mono leafs.

I'd like to do that too but it gets real pricey. The Posies are $400 a pair and the dropped axle (I think) is another $400 and thats before you add in the possible cost of Sid providing the additional modified parts. Do the rear with Posies as well and there's ANOTHER $400. Eek!

[dubie]

It's definitely not cheap to modify a solid axle truck. I could have bought a hub to hub IFS kit shipped to me for the same amount. I'm doing it out of character alone. It was the era of technology that my build is based on
Posted via Mobile Device

[roger55]

Originally Posted by dubie

here's a great how to
http://www.classictrucks.com/tech/09...g_removal.html

I just did this job today.

There's an important thing to know that that they leave out of these instructions. It has also failed to be mentioned in this thread. I read this thread and made the attempt to do it but was having trouble so I went back to searching the net. I then found what the problem was.

On the back side of the arms where the balls go in, the ball stud is flared out at the end preventing it from being pressed or driven out until the flare is removed.

I've found other instructions that say to use a 9/16" drill bit from the back side and go in 1/16" with it. While that would remove the flare, it does mean you have to hit the exact center of the stud with the bit which is not easy to do even in a drill press.

I found it better to drill all the way through the stud with a 3/8" bit and then use a carbide burr to remove the flare. The ball stud with then drive or press out from the back.

[gale]

[QUOTE=arturo7;5867077]I'm leaving the ends alone and just replacing the guts. I think the Truck Stop sells this kit as well.

You can buy the old original kit at any NAPA.

But the modern sealed joints are a 1000% better. The original joints were supposed to be greased every 1000 miles or 4 months.

Grind off the peened over end and then use a press and/or heat to loosen the old ball stud. I just heated the arm (not the ball) and drove the stud out with a hammer and punch. You need a Pitman arm puller to get that off the steering box. Not expensive and then you own one more tool.

[roger55]

Look what a PO mechanic did to mine. It's a good think I didn't drive this truck that much before tearing down to do the restomod.

Although, it's a stretch to call this mechanic work. More like hack work.

Take a look at the these tie rod ends:







I would think one good bump could have popped the balls out of the sockets pretty darn easy. Result is loss of steering and possible loss of life. Loosing steering is a fear I have. I haven't had it happen to me but I used to live in the mountains and have seen it happen.

So, I found that CPP sells an upgrade thicker tie rod with the standard style of ends that eliminate the balls. So, I decided to go that route and already bought the kit. They had it on ebay with only $10 shipping.
So, I cut of their balls (the steering arm's of course) and pressed out the studs.

Take a look at the wear on the balls and the weld job on the sockets:

[gale]

My '54 joints look like new compared to those but I'm replacing them anyway.

In one picture they welded a bead where the socket was wearing out.

Another idea on the drag link is to use two tie-rod ends and cut right and left threads on a 3/4" bar. Then you can easily adjust the length of the drag link.

The original tie-rod is just a mild steel 3/4" bar with right and left threads. About the only way they get bent is to snag something when backing up. Even then the rod is easily straightened.