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#801 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Homosassa, Fl.
Posts: 2,965
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Re: 1968
I got the bracket that attached to the parking brake itself. Also the bracket that holds the cable to the parking brake. Is there any more that I don't know of. Also can I remove the bracket that the old e brake handle attached to? Under the colum. It seams to ride a litter low. I guess it always rode that low. But you never seen it with the e brake handle installed. Please sent me a picture of yours also. Maybe it is clearier. I see in his picture that he has a support brackety to the booster. Should I mount one? Do anyone have such a bracket arm that they are not going to use? If so I would love to have it.
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#802 | |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Homosassa, Fl.
Posts: 2,965
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Re: 1968
Quote:
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#803 | |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Homosassa, Fl.
Posts: 2,965
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Re: 1968
Quote:
Last edited by gdavis; 04-29-2013 at 08:59 PM. |
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#804 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Topeka Kansas
Posts: 2,655
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Re: 1968
The firewall has a rectangular shaped hole for the gromet which is already attached to the new cable you will have to buy so order the new cable then measure for the hole you will need to cut.
If you already have the cable but the gromet is missing then just order a new gromet. You can see the two cable brackets I am refering to in the picture. ![]() |
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#805 |
67cheby
![]() Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: siloam springs ar 72761
Posts: 17,890
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Re: 1968
nice clean work, that steering column boot is tough !
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#806 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Topeka Kansas
Posts: 2,655
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Re: 1968
It's easy when you have the special service tools required to remove and instal the shift tube
![]() I don't think he intends to use that column though so it would be a waste of money to buy them. ![]() ![]() |
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#807 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Homosassa, Fl.
Posts: 2,965
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Re: 1968
Today, I helped a friend work on his solar pannels for his swiming pool. So I did not get to work on my truck. But, I did enjoy talking to a fellow board member today. I learned a lot with that phone call. Thanks Bryan. I ordered the grommet, the brake pedal release handle, the pad for the parking brake, a pad for the foot brake. So this way they all will match. This truck is going to look diamite when I am finshed. If the good Lord is willing and the creek don't rise. The picture does show me a lot. I hope to have the brake pedal all nocked up tomorrow morning. The weather is getting real hot here 86today.
I think my parking brake return spring is broken or weak. It doesn't return to the up right position. I will have to work on that before I land. Last edited by gdavis; 04-26-2013 at 07:35 PM. |
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#808 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Indep, MO
Posts: 5,893
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Re: 1968
Been doin some good work! Looks great!
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__________________
Boppa's Old Yeller Truck Build, Old Yeller's New Heart! Project Buzz Bomb Flyin' Low! |
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#809 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Homosassa, Fl.
Posts: 2,965
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Re: 1968
Today, I finshed installing the E -brake on the truck foot style. I will have to remove the cable when my grommit come in. Piece of cake. Also removed the mounting bracket for the 68 hand brake. Don't need that anymore. Mounted my gas pedal on the fire wall. But I am going to replace it with a 72 style that has a cable. I like that kind better. Mounted the new painted V8 perches on the motor mounts.
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#810 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Topeka Kansas
Posts: 2,655
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Re: 1968
The return spring is built into the front cable on the 69-72 (foot operated version), if you are trying to use the 67-68 cable (hand operated version) it wont work properly and you will need to buy the correct cable.
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#811 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Homosassa, Fl.
Posts: 2,965
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Re: 1968
Yea I see what you are saying. So I will get the right cable from a friend that has several of these truck in his bone yard.
Last edited by gdavis; 04-29-2013 at 08:58 PM. |
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#812 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Homosassa, Fl.
Posts: 2,965
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Re: 1968
I remembered I changed the cable already to a 72. It only needed to be adjusted under neath the truck. It works great now. I also installed the grommit in the fire wall. I also put two small backing plates on the fire wall to support the foot e brake. The grommit came in along with several things I ordered from Classic parts. Most of them will be put up untill needed. I order these parts from speedway. I hope to have them in some time this week. Then I can installed the brakes lines and re-install the motor. then I will be back on track. The grommit has a slit cut into the side. All I had to do was push it in the hole that I cut in the fire wall. very simple. I like simple.
two front brake hoses 2 60'' brake lines 3/16 2 51'' brake lines 3/16 5 30'' brake lines 3/16 1` rear brake hose 1 bag of rail clamps 3/16and fittings Last edited by gdavis; 04-29-2013 at 08:55 PM. |
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#813 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Homosassa, Fl.
Posts: 2,965
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Re: 1968
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#814 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Homosassa, Fl.
Posts: 2,965
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Re: 1968
Also you can see the helper spring that I put in the cable. Between the the bracket and the clip. It really did not need it. I figured it out when I got done with the spring. But, I thought I might as well leave it in. I am glad it is out of sight. You can see the scratches I put in the firewall and e brake. I will re-paint the e- brake again but the scratches in the firewall well they will be covered with sound matt.
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#815 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Homosassa, Fl.
Posts: 2,965
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Re: 1968
Today, I repainted the e- brake and the front frame and fire wall. Should have the motor back in, in a few days. I took 4 wiper motors to the repair shop today. The owner is a friend of mine. He is going to build me one good one out of the four. Still no parts showed up today. Thats a bummer. So I a at a stand still on my build untill they come in. I think this is a first for me.
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#816 |
Hotrodchevy
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Hot Springs NC
Posts: 275
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Re: 1968
looking good
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#817 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Homosassa, Fl.
Posts: 2,965
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Re: 1968
Today, it rained off and on all day long. So I was thinking about getting the wing windows in order. I took apart the wing window. I need two frames that go around the glass. The part that has the bolt on the botton with the spring. Everything else is in good shape. But, that is the only part I can not buy. I called Tuckers,Classic parts,H&H and LMC and they all say the same thing. The part is not available. Anyone have these parts that want to help me out? I don't want to spend 418.00 plus shipping for a simple part like this. I already have the rubbers.
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#818 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Homosassa, Fl.
Posts: 2,965
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Re: 1968
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#819 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Topeka Kansas
Posts: 2,655
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Re: 1968
Let me take a look at mine and see what they look like, I bought some chrome ones from Bobs Vintage Truck in Lenexa so my old ones are up for grabs, I dont know how long it will be before I can get to it though because I wasn't planning on messing with it for a couple weeks.
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#820 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Homosassa, Fl.
Posts: 2,965
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Re: 1968
Well, where do I start. First, I could not wait for the brake line and fittings to come in. I went to our local parts house and purchased the ones I needed.
I did not buy the ones that fit on the master cly. I can change them when the others get here. I did not want to waste anymore time waiting on someone else's time frame. I ran all my brake line from front to rear except the rubber lines. They can be replaced any time. Then I re-installed my motor AGAIN. Now I can mount the front clip back on the truck tomorrow. I called my Brother-In-Law tonight. Made plans for him to come up from Leigh Acres, Florida.To start doing my fine tuning on the body work. Now I can see the light at the end of the tunnel. . The other day someone turned it out on me. |
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#821 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Homosassa, Fl.
Posts: 2,965
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Re: 1968
I might have to change the water pump back to a short shaft. I will find out tomorrow. When I mount the front clip back on the truck. It might be too close to the radiator now. I changed it to the long nose when I was 4 inches back. But maybe it still will be ok.
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#822 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Topeka Kansas
Posts: 2,655
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Re: 1968
The fan blades should be half in and half out for it to be correct so if its all the way in then you will have to go back to the short.
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#823 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: .
Posts: 3,104
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Re: 1968
Glad to see you have a set time with the brother-in-law. As fast as you've been going I wonder how fast you'll fly when he get there.
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#824 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Ladysmith, WI
Posts: 641
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Re: 1968
Years ago I tried running a long nose water pump on Mustard but it didn't work. If I recall correctly, the issue was with the pulleys not lining up, though. You must've already gotten past that though, so hopefully it'll work out.
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Nick Old Mustard, 1972 Chevy C20, 350, TH350, 4.10 Dana 60 rear, owned since I was 16 in 1986 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=545356 Blue Bell, 1987 K20, 6.2L Diesel, TH400/NP208, 4.10 gears Ustahav 1976 K10, 350/350/203, Gov Loc, Yooper beater trail truck. |
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#825 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Homosassa, Fl.
Posts: 2,965
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Re: 1968
Thanks for the information about the distance to the radiator. I didn't get to mount the front clip back on the truck. Maybe tomorrow and then i will see what the distance is.
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