Help, I need to replace a leaky axle seal - never done it before

[lbrowne]

On my 86 2wd, fluid is seeping out on the rear passenger side.

I need to get it fixed soon - anyone have a good link for this?

Thnx!

[t5noel]

Are you sure it's not brake fluid leaking from the brake cylinder? It's easy to check. Pull the wheel off, then the brake drum. It should be pretty obvious if the the leak is coming from the the cylinder.

[lbrowne]

Actually you maybe right - because the brakes grab pretty hard on the opposite side it seems.

[tucsonjwt]

1/2 ton or 3/4 ton with floating axle?

[lbrowne]

It's a half ton, how do I tell floating axle?

It has leaf springs and shocks....that all I can tell ya...

[GM-power]

Probably has a 10 bolt which isnt a floating axel.
Posted via Mobile Device

[lbrowne]

Originally Posted by GM-power

Probably has a 10 bolt which isnt a floating axel.
Posted via Mobile Device

Yes it is a 10 bolt.

[86c20]

ok if it is a wheel seal. take tire and drum off then take diff cover off remove center pin for the alxe shafts and pull the axle out remove the seal and reasemble. not htat bad at all.

[68Timber]

Originally Posted by 86c20

ok if it is a wheel seal. take tire and drum off then take diff cover off remove center pin for the alxe shafts and pull the axle out remove the seal and reasemble. not htat bad at all.

There's a C-clip somewhere in there.

[wilkin250r]

I did this same fix recently on a F*rd rear end, it's not that difficult. The hardest part for me was because I was determined to change the bearings while I was there, and pulling the bearings out was difficult, my slide hammer didn't do the job.

All the difficulty surrounding differentials is setting up the ring and pinion, and you shouldn't need to mess with that, so that's good news for you.

Two possible pitfalls that can make this difficult. If it's a posi rear end, sometimes the spring can be difficult to install, I know mine was.

Here are the basic steps: Like 86c20 said, take off the rear tire and drum.

Remove the differential cover.

Remove the differential center pin (also called the pinion pin). This can be one of the tricky parts because there is a set screw that holds it in, and the set screw is often broken. Sometimes you can fish it out with a pick ( I got lucky), otherwise it will have to be drilled out. If it DOES need to be drilled, there is a kit you can buy for like $30 and it is WELL worth it because it comes with a guide and a specialty drill bit.

With the center pin out, remove the spider gears, and push the axle shaft towards the differential to expose the C-clip. Pull the c-clip and pull the axle shaft out.

Now you have access to the seal. Pull the seal, replace, and installation is the reverse. Clean the differential cover really well and install a new gasket or new RTV.

[wilkin250r]

To familiarize yourself with the terminology and workings of a differential, you can buy a book or DVD that will show you how to rebuild them. You won't need ALL that information, because you won't actually be removing the carrier or messing with the ring and pinion, but it's not bad information to have. It will tell you all about the spider gears, pinion pin, c-clips, and how to deal with the springs inside a posi rear end (if you have one).

[lbrowne]

Looks like it's the axle seal. You can smell the gear oil and the entire drum and shoes are coated.

[86c20]

Originally Posted by BRUISER

There's a C-clip somewhere in there.

yea there is one of them to lol if the shoes are coated thro them the hell away i dont care how new they are. i have known some cheap asses and they soke in gas dry and reuse. witch i have done to.... for a few days till i get new( i live on an island parts are hard to get some times). i would also say do both when you do it

[lbrowne]

Originally Posted by 86c20

yea there is one of them to lol if the shoes are coated thro them the hell away i dont care how new they are. i have known some cheap asses and they soke in gas dry and reuse. witch i have done to.... for a few days till i get new( i live on an island parts are hard to get some times). i would also say do both when you do it

Oh no, she'll be getting new rear brakes for sure.

Half tempted to do a rear disc conversion. lol

[86c20]

good. if you do a disc swap let us know how and what you do. i want to do it on my 3/4 and 1 ton. but here so many things back and forth on it

[lbrowne]

Originally Posted by 86c20

good. if you do a disc swap let us know how and what you do. i want to do it on my 3/4 and 1 ton. but here so many things back and forth on it

From what I can tell the one glaring issue is the handbrake. I'll need that, and the cheaper DIY conversion I seen doesn't retain it. In the end, she'll most likely just get new drums and shoes lol

[hatzie]

3/4 & 1ton 14bolt I'd use the Eldorado calipers. 1/2ton???

[motornut]

other owner had some welding done back there in my 88
lasted a while
I put new offset bearings in

[TexasLS1]

Question - I just replaced the wheel seals a week or so ago, cleaned everything up very well, and tapped the new seals in squarely. I noticed that they started leaking again the next day when I went to finish up the brakes, so I left it sitting on the jacks in disgust lol. So, I'm getting ready to do the job AGAIN. I'm not sure what I did wrong, but this time I'll be applying RTV to the outer edge of the seal and a bit of bearing grease to the inside.

Any other tips so I don't have to do this again?

[donut]

I haven't done a set in quite a while (1990's ?), but I always make sure new seal is wet. Little smear of grease, oil, atf... depends on what I'm working on. No dry starts, new seals can be torn and/or burnt before the 90w can get to them.

Does the axle have a lot of slop moving it side to side?

[lbrowne]

Originally Posted by hatzie

3/4 & 1ton 14bolt I'd use the Eldorado calipers. 1/2ton???

Yes it's a half ton.

[wilkin250r]

Originally Posted by TexasLS1

Question - I just replaced the wheel seals a week or so ago, cleaned everything up very well, and tapped the new seals in squarely. I noticed that they started leaking again the next day when I went to finish up the brakes, so I left it sitting on the jacks in disgust lol. So, I'm getting ready to do the job AGAIN. I'm not sure what I did wrong, but this time I'll be applying RTV to the outer edge of the seal and a bit of bearing grease to the inside.

Any other tips so I don't have to do this again?

Like donut suggested, coat the new seal with oil or grease to prevent burning the seal before the oil gets a chance to lubricate.

My other suggestion would be the surface of the axle where the seal sits. Did you inspect that for pitting or wear? Double check the dimensions with a caliper to make sure you've got a proper match?

[TexasLS1]

Thanks for the help, guys (OP - sorry to jack your thread). Everything looked smooth and appeared to be a good fit, but I will get calipers on them to be sure. I hadn't driven the truck since I put the new seals in, they started seeping while it was still sitting on jacks. I'll grease them this time, tho. Should have it all back together in the next few days.

[Zebb]

Originally Posted by TexasLS1

Any other tips so I don't have to do this again?

Make sure your vent tube is not plugged.

[TexasLS1]

Originally Posted by Zebb

Make sure your vent tube is not plugged.

Did not think about that at all. Thanks!