Bartmans AD-S10 Chassis Swap

[av8tr33337]

Confirmed that autozone shows the same part number for both 84 Camaro and 94 S10 for front hub and rotor assy P/N 5547B

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Same wheel bearings as well. Chevy just makes my life easier. So many compatible parts.

[99 to Life]

good score on the rotors. as for tank, are you locating it in the rear or in the s10 stock location on the drivers side? I went with a tanksinc aftermarket tank that I put in the stock s10 location, I only did that because I wanted to run a 30 ohm sending unit which had a smaller diameter top and didn't have a great stock tank to work with let alone want to drain and weld stuff up on. Plus a new tank I felt better about, next truck I'm trying a blazer tank and mounting in the rear. Didn't like the thought of that originally because of careless drivers smacking my rear. Another prob I had with my tanksinc tank was there wasn't a return line, so I just used the vent port as a return and drilled out my gas cap and put a breather on it. Anyway, possibilities are endless, I'd keep the mechanical pump and return line set up. Just find a tank that accommodates your location, out and return line, breather and sending unit. Or modify which sounds like the situation you are in. drilling and welding an old tank vs buying a new one is a tuff decision.

[av8tr33337]

Well I was referring to the original S10 tank that sits on the drivers side. But I am going to be running some v8 conversion headers that I picked up cheap on craigs list and dual exaust, So Im not sure if the drivers side location is a good choice. I think I would have to run both exhaust pipes to the right side and then bring the left back accross to the drivers side. I'll be looking for threads that have gone that rout and see what they did. I don't really like the blazer tank unless the bed floor is raised as it looks like it is slightly visible from behind even if you use a roll pan. I had a Dodge Caravan tank that resembles the 65 mustang tanks that I've seen guys use between the bed rails in the back, but not sure what kind of issues I would run into with that. I just need to do a little more research I guess.

[Atommik]

I left my S10 tank in it's stock location. But after deciding to mount the battery to the frame rail, under the bed floor, (on the pass. side)across from the gas tank, Dual exhaust would no longer be and option. I made a cross over pipe and ran single exhaust past the tank and now I am deciding if I will split it again or just leave it single. I'm running 2 1/2" tubing, and my motor is only 250 hp so I don't think single exhaust would be restrictive at all. If the battery was located somewhere else, there would have been more than enough room to run dual all the way back, just a little more plumbing.

[av8tr33337]

LOL Atommic, you know....I just spent the last 1.5 hours going through your build again. I saw what you did and I like it. I just kinda like maybe having the duals comming out of the running boards like somebody else on here did. I have seen some 2 in and 2 out mufflers. I used to like to just run glass packs. I like the sound. I'm not sure they are all that popular now. Seems like most of the guys like exaust that is fairly quiet till you get on it. I'm thinking I'll put my Battery on the firewall. So I should have plenty of room for 2 exhaust pipes and then cross back over. That's how I'm leaning.

[99 to Life]

I'm running dual exhaust with tank on drivers side, but I didn't come over the axle because I want to build a "tool"box where in the spare tire location. Did you check out tanksinc, maybe there is another rear tank that would suit you. also I run my battery behind the seat, very convenient for me there.

[av8tr33337]

No I didn't Check out Tanksinc. You know me. I am cheap. LOL

I'll probably use what I got and run it out the back. I looked at some of my pics and there is no way to turn out in front of the rear tire with the stock tank.

Hmmm behind the seat. I hadn't though of that. I suppose you put it in a Battery box. Not a bad idea.

[99 to Life]

yeah a new tank with sending unit cost me about 250 or so. Battery behind seat, no battery box, it fits snug back there, its nice cause you can run your kill switch right in the cab and I run my keyless entry directly off the battery all behind the seat. I run my mufflers side by side, turned upright, on the pass side, right beside the gas tank. works out well, every once in a while I wish I had some tips sticking out but its less pipe to run and leaves me with more room to do other things.

[av8tr33337]

Just spent a few minutes tonight pulling all the smog crap off the engine. Pulled the exaust manifolds and threw the headman S10 conversion headers on it. Looks like the spark plug boots are damn near touching the headers in a couple places. Did not get pics of that.

I did snap some pics of the carb and distributor. Distributor is a stock HEI. The Carb I assume is a Rochester. I could find no tags on it.

again I appreciate all the help and advise.

Hope to get it running on the stand by the weekend.

[RootBeer 6117]

That looks like a mid 80's electronic Q jet, You might have to find you a non electronic model, at one time I had several non electronic ones, 70's Big block Cadillac's ran a 800 cfm model I had a hard time finding them, I think most are 750 cfm. You might be able to use the HEI by bypassing two wires, I did it to a couple trucks and they ran for several years like that but you might want to get a non electronic version of that also, or run the cars ecm and keep both of them.

[99 to Life]

personally, I'd just look for a non qjet carb on CL for cheap, get rebuilt kit and go through it. Then buy a brand new dist online for like 50 bucks shipped. Thats what I did, looks nice and performs great. I don't know what those wires coming out of your HEI hook up to exactly, but its def a qjet distributor. You could get a used HEI and take the base off it and use your cap and rotor I'd assume. I just don't know enough about qjet stuff and have no desire to learn, not sure if your module would have power without that 4flat being hooked up to some type of power. Plus who knows how long that coil and module would last, I'd just get a whole new set up, but thats me.
oh and you might want to find a used intake too if you get a non qjet carb. I got a decent eddy performer intake off CL for $40 just to have around.

[av8tr33337]

Thanks RootBeer and 99toLife.

For now I just want to get it running on the stand. I saw some stuff online today about bypassing the ECM by shorting 2 of the wires on the dist togeter. I would think that it should run, maybe not well, but good enough to check for oil and water leaks, etc

When I get ready to put it in the truck I will probably find a carb and dist like you said. .

[99 to Life]

I gotcha, I'v been in your shoes to fire up and engine to see what was up with it. I used a qjet carb but I had my aftermarket HEI dropped in it. didn't have it running long but enough to see oil etc. I did a compression test, to find out #1 cylinder had no compression, so as I tore it down, I had a broken piston land. So I see where you are at now.

[av8tr33337]

A guy at work has a complete 305 he's wants to get rid of free gratis. I only really want the carb and maybe the distributor. He thinks it's out of an early or mid 80's C10 pickup. It's been sitting in his garage for 13 years. He got it from his friend who said he had pulled it because it had a bad oil leak. That sounds fishy, but I don't care about the rest of the motor. Looking at the Pics of the carb looks to me like it is a pre-computer controlled Q-Jet. Not sure what year they started making them computer controlled? I haven't investigated that yet, but I'm sure somebody will chime in a enlighten me. I'm kinda thinking this motor might be older than he thinks. The carb may be junk but I'm going to take it anyway just in case. It will definately need rebuilt.

[RootBeer 6117]

Yep those would work I would say early 80's I am not exactly sure when they started the electronic Qjet but it wasn't around to long, in 87 chevy trucks went to throttle body injection
I think some of the big body gms used the electronic Qjet a little longer than the trucks. There is a number stamped in the carb you should be able to get some info from that with a little searching, you will need that to get a carb kit. I converted a 80 chevy truck to the 87 throttle body injection, once I got the bugs worked out it ran great, I almost wish I had used that set up in my 49 rather than the LT1 but that wouldn't have been as much of a challenge.
I have a entire drawer in my tool box full of Qjet stuff even the drill bit to drill out the primary throttle plate shaft and put in bronze bushing to stop the air leak from the shaft wearing the throttle plate.I rebuilt a few dozen qjets at one time. I also recently found my "how to rebuild and modify qjet's" book.

[Russell Ashley]

I recently rebuilt my Quadrajet with a kit from this site. You will definitely need to find the numbers on the carb to get the correct kit.

http://www.carbkitsource.com/carbs/t...jet-index.html

[av8tr33337]

Thanks for the info guys. I talked to my brother last night who has been a dealership GM Mechanic for over 30 years. He's been with Lexus for about the last 15. His favorite carbs have always been Rochester and carter. He's done well over 100 Rochester’s but has not done any carb in about 15 years. Most people who are into performance hate Rochester but they were very dependable in stock applications.

Watched some YouTube videos on rebuilding one of these and I am sure it won't be a problem. I’ve done some small engine carbs in the past and had good luck. Going to take loots of pics so I remember how it goes back together and I guess the Kit should have an exploded diagram.

I was looking at kits at Autozone.com and they generally don’t come with a new float or choke pull off. They probably sell them separately. I'll check out the link that Russell provided and see what they have.

And of course I always have techy help from the board if I get stuck!

[RootBeer 6117]

Good Luck I hope it runs good and no leaks.

[av8tr33337]

Well I got the 305 to fired up about 4 times for 5 or 6 seconds. I don’t think I’m getting gas up to the carb yet. I was just dumping a little gas through the top of the carb. 5 times cranking and then the battery needed recharged. I loaned my charger to a family member about a year ago. They say the returned it a long time ago but I have not seen it since. Don't you hate that? Anyway it sounds really good while it's running. I borrowed the neighbors trickle charger. That will take forever but I got time. Going to go back it in a while and put some gas right in the bowl and try it. Should run a little longer and maybe the fuel pump with pick up and take over.

[RootBeer 6117]

Hook up your jumper cables.
Posted via Mobile Device

[av8tr33337]

Originally Posted by RootBeer 6117

Hook up your jumper cables.
Posted via Mobile Device

I got the pickup that I pulled the battery out of sitting in the way. Poor planning. I guess I could try to squeeze the wife's van in next to it.

[RootBeer 6117]

Originally Posted by av8tr33337

I got the pickup that I pulled the battery out of sitting in the way. Poor planning. I guess I could try to squeeze the wife's van in next to it.

Been there done that, its frustrating so close and yet so far.

[av8tr33337]

Yes it is frustrating. I was able to get some jumper cables on it and the first time I tried it fired. It still only ran for a few seconds but I know I’m getting gas now. I evidently didn't get one of the carb bolts tight so it was leaking from between the bottom plate and the body. I tightened it down and put the juice to it again and the starter seemed to be dragging then wouldn’t do anything. I tapped on the starter and tried it one more time and it turned over a couple times then quit. I may have burned up the brushes. It felt warm but not hot, so who knows. Anyway I decided to quit for the day. I’m happy that it fired and ran even though not for a long time. I did have water in the engine, fresh oil and I double checked how it turned over by hand with a break over bar on the front of the crank before I started and after I quit. It seamed to be just fine. Since I probably need to change at least the valve cover gaskets I’ll take the covers off and crank it by hand and double check the valve train. I think I'm going to call it good and go ahead and paint it up, put the other distributor in it and set it in the chassis. Then rebuild the carb. Like I've said before, it only has 10,000 miles on it so it should be fine.

[99 to Life]

cool man, its nice to have a start stand and let them run on that bf you put it in the truck, but I guess you could just put use the truck as a stand and put fenders on later. nice to let it run for an hour and make sure temp and oil is good etc. It's always a crap shoot with an engine, no matter how many miles. My buddy got one with lower miles and ironically it shat on him, so I wish you the best.

[av8tr33337]

Have not done much the last couple of weeks. Got a lot on my mind with my upcomming foot surgery.

For those who didn't see my post in the "Pay It Forward" thread, our good buddy XPickup was nice enough to throw some drop spindles my way. Today was a perfect time to throw them on. XPickup, I owe ya man!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5LjXAu8bPJ8

Sorry about the camera work. I'm not a Steven Spielberg.

Here is another video I did for Youtube on re-packing wheel bearings. I thought this may help some youngster that is just starting out. I know everybody here has experience on these old truck projects, but thought you might find it entertaining to see an old fat guy doing a how to video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fRbxWd-oU3U

Hopefully I can get back on the truck in a couple months. Won't be able to put any weight on my foot for at least 6 weeks. Take care everybody.