1963 C-10 in NC

[flips72]

wow, the big block looks great, bypass lines came out great as well,heck it all looks great, fantastic job.

[1963c-10]

hey mark, thanks for the comments. the rear bypass hoses come to the water neck and will help balance out the engine temps on the rear of the block, thats about most of what i know ina nutshell, but still learning on this. ive had several big block cars, but this is my 1st application with this intake and the bypass system.
Posted via Mobile Device

[1963c-10]

thanks flip, still working out some plumbing issues on it, i'll keep pics/progress posted
Posted via Mobile Device

[1963c-10]

I think I have ordered the last parts for the plumbing on the bypass. Have a few 90* fittings coming and I want to try and reverse the bypass as I originally plumbed it. Be tricky, but I think I have it and the throttle linkage figured out. I need to finish mocking the carb and I'll know once the parts show up monday.

[1963c-10]

Next issue is that the Novak clutch fork arm is about 1/2" wider than the stock, and the stock clutch fork boot cover will not work. I'll have to either dimple the arm or have some machine work done to the opening to let the gasket work. Be 1/8" off the top and bottom. There are no clearance issues forward and rear. I will contact Novak monday morning first and see if they have a narrower clutch fork.

Mark....what bellhousing did you use? Do you remember the GM part #?

[Jmorales3181]

Wow that engine is looking clean man! Nice job!
Posted via Mobile Device

[1963c-10]

Thanks, I appreciate it. I knew it was going to be a long build, but slowly and surely it coming together. With every correct part its a small victory. Be easier if chevy had designed the 1963 truck models with gen IV big blocks...

[1963c-10]

If any body has any good or bad advise on clutch manufacturers and flywheel recomendations/experiences, let me know. Right now i'm looking at a mcleoud 11" 2nd stage 10 spline for the borg t-16 hd3 speed im bolting to it. I have a real nice cast flywheel, but really considering going to a forged steel flywheel. I know that GM ran cast behind alot of the big block cars and I'm not building this for strip, but do want safety and reliablity on the street. Nice thing is the borg is the same length as the muncie. Next thing I have to consider also is if I want to go real trick and convert the trans to work on the column shift or use the factory Chevelle floor shifter which is hard to find for a factory big block 3 speed manual car.

[bj383ss]

Wow that engine looks sick! Love those valve covers. Can't wait to see this installed in your truck.

Bret

[1963c-10]

Thanks, me too. I traded the valve covers for an old pair of tall cast aluminum mickey tompson valve covers. I was going for a real 60's authentic muscle car look at first and switched it up a lil to more of a resto mod look on the engine. I don't know who made them or when, but I wanted an old classic finned polished aluminum look for the valve covers and these fit my build, so my buddy swapped for the nostalgic set. (he was building a roller 454 for a 63 panel and sold the truck). It took some time getting the paint right on the valve covers with the fins. I'm sure there is probably a good trick to painting them, but I masked them off as best I could and then did good clean up work to finish any areas that didn't tape just right. I polished them prior to painting, and had to be carefull when cutting out the fins/bowtie so as not to scratch the aluminum. I need to polish them out again as they sat at my builders for almost a year. I still need to machine out the openings for the breather and pcv valve.

[1963c-10]

Ok, finished the plumbing on the bypass. This allowed me to turn the bypass 180* like I wanted originally. Only issue now is vacuum advance. May have to pull dizzy and reinstall w/vacuum advance moved a little. The 90* actually gave me just a hair less clearance than the 45* at the advance. I think the plumbing looks better like this. And I don't see any clearance issues w/throttle linkage & carb, but won't ultimately know until in the truck and installed all together.

Other think I'm working on is plumbing an -04AN line for the oil gauge. Looks like the back of the factory gauge is 5/16", so I'll use a 5/16" - 1/4" NPT adapter and then go 1/4" npt -04AN stainless line and 1/4"npt -04AN at the block.

[1963c-10]

Working on rest of clutch this weekend. I have gone with a chevy flywheel commonly used in big block applications as well as many others. Part #3789733. Its 168 tooth and I will run a 11" clutch. Leaning towards a Hays Super Truck clutch 90-100 right now. My borg t-16 is 10 spline. Theres a McLeoud clutch that i'm also looking at. I have a factory big block 11" clutch, but hate to find its not enough, so i'm planning on a stage 2-3 at this point.

[1963c-10]

filing is slow going, but i think the bellhousing work will be done tomorrow. ill put up picks tomorrow
Posted via Mobile Device
Posted via Mobile Device

[1963c-10]

So after much deliberation, I think I'm going to install a Hurst Master Shift on the floor for the T-16. I will get the 4 speed column cover so that I don't have a column lever "bump" on there. My other consideration was converting the shift rods to work on the column, but don't know if its even feasible.

[1963c-10]

Here is the Borg Warner T-16 and the shifter. The shifter i'm told is an early Muncie and was later used on the Muncie 3 speed also RPO MC-1 in chevelle/Camaro applications. Its actually a fairly stout shifter, and may be worth making a shift arm for it instead of a whole new shifter. I have a new main case (the one in the pic has a broken mounting ear), and I'll have the trans shop clean it up and install new seals etc...when they swap the main case.

[1963c-10]

Also wanted to share some pics of the new future home for my 63 & 64 projects. I was able to get a nice load of 40ft poles creosote soaked from the local utility company for free. I used my 63 to move the poles around and a friend to help set them by hand. We dug the holes by hand also....4ft down. The building will be 46x24 when completed, which gives me two 14x24' stalls and an enclosed 18x24' shop. I had to move the 63 this weekend to mow and took a picture for scale. It will have a 10' ceiling height.

[Ta2Don]

Originally Posted by 1963c-10

Heres some pics as promised. The 1st two pics are where Im trying to decide where to mount. The 1st pic is about 2" forward of pic two. I almost like picture 2 better due to being able to see the hood spears.....which one do you guys prefer?

Big Block is Awesome!!!
I prefer the Hood Ornament as shown in the 2cd Pic...
Nice Score on the poles, that will be one NICE shop when you get it finished!

[1963c-10]

Thanks Don. I mounted the ornament as shown in the 2nd pic. I took some pics, but just now realized I never loaded them. They are with the ornament mounted in the current location. It has grown on me...I always wanted one even though there is much debate over which years they are correct for. From what I gather...58-60 or even into 61, although they could be purchased from the dealer if available and installed on anything you want I suppose. Anyways...i like it either way, and for $100 I couldn't go wrong. I have seen them in mint condition go for over $1000. It may be the one non correct part on the truck, but it'll stay for now at least.

Im happy with the progress on the big block also...although as most things, time and money. Throw the work "big" in front of anything GM and the parts price seem to go up. Now that I have the engine home, I can do some more intensive work. I will mock it all up using the 64 frame for now, and transplant to the 63.

The building will be stout. Thats the main goal. We live 1.5hr from the beach and right off the I-95 corridor and see our fair share of hurricanes. I also milled my own 2" thick yellow pine 20" wide from trees I harvested on my own property with an alaska style mill mounted on my ms440 stihl chainsaw with a real nice ripping chain. Ill have to post some pics of the lumber...came out nice. I want an open style pole barn on the two 14' bays, and an enclosed shop with the 18' bay so that I can finally have a real shop. Be able to do teardown/assembly, paint, winter time projects, etc. I plan to install a steel i-beam in the 18" bay so that I can pull engines, cabs, etc.

[66farmer]

Engine is looking great. I see your dist is larger diameter then the MSD I used that might be a little tight if you keep the engine in the rear frame holes.

Are you installing the bypass hoses to keep the engine running cooler?

[1963c-10]

Yes, the bypass hose set up is to help balance out the block temp. I may go to a smaller HEI....points don't bother me either. I do plan on using the rear mount holes. If it comes down to clearance, a drop in distributor is a cheaper fix than firewall notching. I don't think my valve covers will pose much problem, as they are a lower profile. But I guess only time will tell.

[1963c-10]

Got whats left of the 61 over to the house yesterday. So I finally have all my parts in one location for the 1st time ever. I will use the driver side of the cab to repair the rocker & cab corner on the 63. This floor is in great condition, and almost a shame to cut up, but my project needs quality parts and the 61 will work for the job. You can still clearly see the markings on the firewall from the assembly line.

[1963c-10]

Heres a few more pics. When the site went down the other day for maintenance, they must have changed the size off allowed pictures as I have had to resize everyone to upload.

[66farmer]

Originally Posted by 1963c-10

Yes, the bypass hose set up is to help balance out the block temp. I may go to a smaller HEI....points don't bother me either. I do plan on using the rear mount holes. If it comes down to clearance, a drop in distributor is a cheaper fix than firewall notching. I don't think my valve covers will pose much problem, as they are a lower profile. But I guess only time will tell.

My valve covers are the lower profile as well. They didn't hit the firewall but they were real close so I took a piece of 2" steel pipe and a BFH heated the edge of the firewall where it rolls in to the center. It worked out great. Looks like a factory bent.

[1963c-10]

Ok, I'll definitely keep that in mind. I don't mind tight, but I would like to be able to remove them for engine maintenance and to polish the aluminum from time to time.

[1963c-10]

I went back and looked at your pictures where you did the firewall work. You have to really look to see it. I like the fact it looks stock.