1971 K20- project just get driveable!!

[Vintage Windmills]

Not doing a full resto on this one since I have a 1972 K20 resto that I'm going full frame off on. I do need a functional 4x4 for plowing my property in the winter and doing work in the summer and that's where this truck will fit the bill. I am going to have it driveable in 60 days, thats my goal.

Its not loaded but another one of these base models that seems far from entry level, since it has the following features:

-4x4
-V8
-disc brakes (std in '71)
-power brakes (std on 3/4's in this year)
-power steering
-4spd
-2tone with stripe

Its got a clean title and matching SPID, frame, Vin tag, etc so the goal is to eventually get it roadworthy but for now, just get it off roadworthy. Warning, pictures aren't pretty, she needs a lot of work but hey, original K20's aren't super easy to find so I think she's worth saving. And if you didn't think I was nuts already, the hood and valve covers have been off for years and the box is toast!

[1leglance]

easy slap together of a few parts

But like you said...off road worthly first and then road worthly..that will make it easier

[Ol Blue K20]

That's going to be fun to watch. Keep posting updates.
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[Vintage Windmills]

Thanks guys, here are some pics of a truck I'm parting out. The frame is junk and title has issues on this '72 but check out the hood, grille, steering wheel and engine. Its funny how things work out sometimes!

[Vintage Windmills]

Plan was to replace the locked up engine with the one in the last pic above. I did a compression test and found cylinder #3 to be dead. I then removed the valve cover and found a broken rocker. I replaced that but and that raised the compression from 5psi to 75 but thats clearly too low since the other cylinders are around 145 to 155. Do you guys think the valve could have buildup or something that is preventing a good seal? What are the odds its got bad rings, and had the rocker break? Valve is moving as much as the others so the cam still looks good. Should I run the engine more now and see what happens?

[Ol Blue K20]

I would run the motor with Seafoam in the gas and oil that will clean the rings and valves. I would run it 30 minutes let it cool repeat several times andtest it again. You may get a surprise when the compression comes back
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[Vintage Windmills]

Originally Posted by Ol Blue K20

I would run the motor with Seafoam in the gas and oil that will clean the rings and valves. I would run it 30 minutes let it cool repeat several times andtest it again. You may get a surprise when the compression comes back
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Did the seafoam trick, ran 30 minutes, and its now about 140 psi Now all cylinders are 140 to 155, should be good, right?

Only thing that concerns me is the smoke in the exhaust but I think thats from the gas being old and the seafoam in there. It wasn't smoking much at startup tonight but after the seafoam got to the carb it started. Hopefully it all goes mostly away with new gas.

[Low Elco]

Wow, 2 become one! Looks like a fun one!

[Vintage Windmills]

Got the cab all cleaned out and working on getting the engine ready to pull. Took a break and put a couple better tires/rims on and just set the hood and grille on. Its coming right off again but here's a preview.



I'm tempted to use these mirrors since they fit the work truck theme and match truck color. I'm thinking I'll paint the bases and framework white.



Check out the color of the bowtie on these! I suppose white instead of chrome/stainless would look more proper though.

[birdistheword]

Well it looks like a good start.

[Ol Blue K20]

Originally Posted by Vintage Windmills

Did the seafoam trick, ran 30 minutes, and its now about 140 psi Now all cylinders are 140 to 155, should be good, right?

Only thing that concerns me is the smoke in the exhaust but I think thats from the gas being old and the seafoam in there. It wasn't smoking much at startup tonight but after the seafoam got to the carb it started. Hopefully it all goes mostly away with new gas.

Glad it worked!!! The smoke is probably going to go away after it burns all the crap out... have faith..P.S. how did you get those caps over the hubs?
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[Gus350]

Looks like a fun build sighning up for this one......

[Vintage Windmills]

Originally Posted by Ol Blue K20

Glad it worked!!! The smoke is probably going to go away after it burns all the crap out... have faith..P.S. how did you get those caps over the hubs?
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Hubs don't have lockouts on this one. Not sure If I'll add them or not. I may swap in the whole front axle from the rusty truck since that one has them. Also, one of the axle shafts is broken in the ochre truck. Part of me wants a simpler truck without lockouts since it may not see much road time but on the other hand, may be easier to swap the whole axle than a axle shaft and deal with the damage that may be in the pumpkin.

Although, a set of these in this color would look right at home, wouldn't they?
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...1&d=1166384368

[Ol Blue K20]

Originally Posted by Vintage Windmills

Hubs don't have lockouts on this one. Not sure If I'll add them or not. I may swap in the whole front axle from the rusty truck since that one has them. Also, one of the axle shafts is broken in the ochre truck. Part of me wants a simpler truck without lockouts since it may not see much road time but on the other hand, may be easier to swap the whole axle than a axle shaft and deal with the damage that may be in the pumpkin.

Although, a set of these in this color would look right at home, wouldn't they?
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...1&d=1166384368

I would definately install the hubs, but if the gear ratio is the same I would probably swap the complete diff. It already has a broken axle let alone all the extra wear on the other parts because it didn't have lockouts. Everything spins all the time, just no load ya know... if you get the yellow lockout knobs I want the blues

[Vintage Windmills]

Originally Posted by Ol Blue K20

I would definately install the hubs, but if the gear ratio is the same I would probably swap the complete diff. It already has a broken axle let alone all the extra wear on the other parts because it didn't have lockouts. Everything spins all the time, just no load ya know... if you get the yellow lockout knobs I want the blues

The one from the parts truck is a 4.10 as well but its so rusty, not sure I want to swap it in. The dust shields are even rusted off on that one.
Also the rust has taken out the one flange on the diff side of the u joint and the rotors are shot. I wonder if I can just buy a new axle shaft for the one in ochre truck? Here is a pic showing how its just got surface rust, not the heavy scale like the parts truck.

[Vintage Windmills]

Here are some pics from this weekend. Gonna swap the trans from parts truck in since this one had mouse nest packed hard around the entire bellhousing and rusted the input shaft and throwout bearing into one mass.



The mice and water left a nice gooey sludge that was pretty odiferous and disgusting


This looks better here than in the truck:


Drained 8 qts of water out of engine pan and 2 drops of oil!


Got so thirsty I drank this can of pop I found in the truck!


....just kidding

Then pulled the one from the parts truck that will be going in. I think I will paint it quick before dropping in. The intake especially needs some paint to match the valvecovers



Cab cleaned out, rust on floor isn't as bad as it looks, only a couple minor holes on driver side and a small area that will need patched on pass side. Biggest issue with cab is visor area rust but I think I'll fix that since cab supports are all intact except for one area on pass side. Should be good welding practice for me.

[hgs_notes]

Yeah, my jimmy started out like this. Look what happened there. lol

[Vintage Windmills]

Originally Posted by hgs_notes

Yeah, my jimmy started out like this. Look what happened there. lol

yep, that is quite the lengthy thread now!

[Ol Blue K20]

Originally Posted by Vintage Windmills

The one from the parts truck is a 4.10 as well but its so rusty, not sure I want to swap it in. The dust shields are even rusted off on that one.
Also the rust has taken out the one flange on the diff side of the u joint and the rotors are shot. I wonder if I can just buy a new axle shaft for the one in ochre truck? Here is a pic showing how its just got surface rust, not the heavy scale like the parts truck.

I would pull the cover off the ochre trucks front diff and make sure every thing looks ok.. but I'm sure you'll be able to find an axle and outer stub some where maybe even out of the parts truck..make sure you change the seal I'm sure it got damaged with the axle flopping around like that..

[Vintage Windmills]

sounds good. i wonder if the axle shafts are the same in a 70 k10 drum brake D44? i have one of those to i could part out
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[Ol Blue K20]

Originally Posted by Vintage Windmills

sounds good. i wonder if the axle shafts are the same in a 70 k10 drum brake D44? i have one of those to i could part out
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I'm not sure but it would be worth looking at.

[Vintage Windmills]

Was planning on replacing the clutch but it looks like it doesn't have much wear so I think I will just run it. Its not like the engine is rebuilt or new.

[Ol Blue K20]

Clutch looks good and as long as it felt good in the other truck should be fine
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[ryanroo]

I wanna watch!

[DeadheadNM]

Late to the party but I'm on board - good luck Jud!