Remote Starter Solenoid w/ Points Ign

[utee05]

Hi All,
I am trying to put a remote starter solenoid on my '72 GMC. Here is wiring diagram I followed:



Since I have points ignition what do I connect the yellow wire that was originally going to the '+' terminal of my ignition coil?

I tried this wiring configuration but this did not work:


Not sure exactly what I am doing wrong but let me know what wires I have on incorrectly. Thanks.

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by utee05

Hi All,
I am trying to put a remote starter solenoid on my '72 GMC. Here is wiring diagram I followed:

Looks like what I have on my Camaro. Don't know why it isn't working.

Just so we know the remote solenoid is working to begin with try jumping the S terminal with the A terminal (hot lead) of the remote solenoid with a screwdriver. This will bypass all the wiring and can cause a spark or two. Make sure the screwdriver doesn't ground out on anything else as you are doing this.

Make sure you are in park or neutral too.

If the engine does turn over then the problem is somewhere in the S terminal power supply to the remote solenoid. If it doesn't turn over then you may have a bad external solenoid. Try a different one and see if it works.

[utee05]

Originally Posted by 68 TT

Looks like what I have on my Camaro. Don't know why it isn't working.

Just so we know the remote solenoid is working to begin with try jumping the S terminal with the A terminal (hot lead) of the remote solenoid with a screwdriver. This will bypass all the wiring and can cause a spark or two. Make sure the screwdriver doesn't ground out on anything else as you are doing this.

I will give this a try. Just as a follow is the purple wire coming from the fuse box considered to be the ignition switch or is that the neutral safety switch? Just want to make sure I have the correct wire connected to the 'S' terminal.

I am certain I have the yellow wire going to the 'I' terminal on the remote starter.

In order to test out the starter solenoid should I wire things back up how they were in the diagram?

[Zeke's Garage]

Originally Posted by utee05

I tried this wiring configuration but this did not work:
Attachment 1139863

Not sure exactly what I am doing wrong but let me know what wires I have on incorrectly. Thanks.

Your solenoid needs to be grounded on one side of the internal coil that energizes the solenoid. You can disconnect the main power going from the ford solenoid to the starter, and you'll hear the ford unit click when you turn the key.. that way you'll know it works.

As for the wire that used to go to the ignition coil from the starter... You can leave it like it was, as it will supply 12v from the energized starter solenoid to the coil while the starter is turning, then shut off when you release the key, or you can run a jumper from the output of the ford unit over to the ignition coil.

Now with all that said, why are you putting in a redundant solenoid for this circuit?
I know some folks claim that is solves 'heat soak', but I've never found any science backing up that claim. If you're having hot start problems you're better off looking at new battery cables, starter, battery and/or timing.


Shawn

[utee05]

I have not really had any hot start problems, just figured it would be easier to have the remote starter up closer to the engine bay. I'll re-wire everything back to the way it was. The starter has just been replaced so I know that it is in working order. Also the battery and alternator are fine as well.

[Zeke's Garage]

Originally Posted by utee05

I have not really had any hot start problems, just figured it would be easier to have the remote starter up closer to the engine bay. I'll re-wire everything back to the way it was. The starter has just been replaced so I know that it is in working order. Also the battery and alternator are fine as well.

If you're just looking for an option for a 'remote start' in the engine bay, you can mount a momentary switch on the firewall or inner fender that connects to the hot (battery side) and the solenoid (where the purple wire goes) directly to the starter solenoid. I did this on my Corvette while working with tuning issues, since it was easier to 'bump' the engine over under the hood instead of gyrating around the steering column through the window to do it.

Good luck!

Shawn

[67 chevelle]

ford selinoids , are chassis ground , I would think that that intermittiant 12 volt wire that ran to your chevy starter selinoid , should now go to the s terminal on your ford selinoid , this is just a 12 volt {quick start} source for your points , at the end of your cranking it shuts off and the other resistor wire powers the coil

[utee05]

Originally Posted by 67 chevelle

ford selinoids , are chassis ground , I would think that that intermittiant 12 volt wire that ran to your chevy starter selinoid , should now go to the s terminal on your ford selinoid , this is just a 12 volt {quick start} source for your points , at the end of your cranking it shuts off and the other resistor wire powers the coil

I assumed the same that the ford solenoid is grounded to chassis. So the wire connected to the 'S' terminal should be feeding 12V when the key is turned on? I saw this turn to 12V when the key turned on but on the 'B' side of the ford solenoid I saw only ~8V.

[67 chevelle]

Originally Posted by utee05

I assumed the same that the ford solenoid is grounded to chassis. So the wire connected to the 'S' terminal should be feeding 12V when the key is turned on? I saw this turn to 12V when the key turned on but on the 'B' side of the ford solenoid I saw only ~8V.

no , The wire running from the selinoid is an intermitant 12 volt wire , , when the key is in the crank position it sends 12 volts to the points , momentary , after the engine runs and you stop cranking the resitor wire on the firewall powers the points , with I believe 8-9 volts ., constant 12 volts to a points system burns the point quickly

[utee05]

Oh ok that clears that up a bit.

[utee05]

I will have to look at my wiring. I have a kill switch installed on my system that requires you to push the break to turn on the vehicle. When I was looking at the wiring the yellow wire was not connected to the starter solenoid 'R' terminal at all, only the purple wire was connected to the 'S' terminal on the GM solenoid of the starter.

[utee05]

Originally Posted by 67 chevelle

no , The wire running from the selinoid is an intermitant 12 volt wire , , when the key is in the crank position it sends 12 volts to the points , momentary , after the engine runs and you stop cranking the resitor wire on the firewall powers the points , with I believe 8-9 volts ., constant 12 volts to a points system burns the point quickly

So this got me thinking. I may have my wiring all messed up. As I saw ~8V coming from the purple wire which should be the ignition wire and should supply 12V and not 8V. The yellow wire or resistor wire that goes to the points is the one that should be sending 8V. I'll have to check when I get home later on today.

[67 chevelle]

2 wires go to your coil positive , the one from the starter selinoid [12volt for starting ]
the other lower voltage for running

[utee05]

Originally Posted by 67 chevelle

2 wires go to your coil positive , the one from the starter selinoid [12volt for starting ]
the other lower voltage for running

From the wiring diagrams it only has the yellow wire going to the ignition coil positive.

On the starter solenoid there are 2 wires, one for S and one for R terminals. Like in this picture:


Maybe a nice little diagram can help to clear things up for me as I think I'm a bit confused at the moment now.

[67 chevelle]

the yellow wire from the stsrter would be the lower most wire in this diagram , the upper that says resistor comes off the firewall , and most chevys I have worked on this was a white wire , the wire itself is a resistor , as opposed to chryslers that have an actual ballist resistor

[19673ontree]

I thought about one of those remote starts but boy if you forget to leave your truck in neutral it would be bad ! LOL
I wonder how these work too ? mine would have to have a solenoid to pat the gas twice then crank the motor
and in the winter I would need the choke cable pulled too ??? I will need a remote start robot LOL

[67 chevelle]

Its a remote selinoid , ford type , this instalation helps with heat sink , say from big headers and a truck that does not want to start when its hot , I had a big block chevelle that I put one on and solved my hot start issues , it works

[utee05]

Well my battery died in the process of putting things back together as they were originally. Will get the battery charged up and see how things go. Will need to find the culprit that drained the battery.

[67 chevelle]

Originally Posted by utee05

Well my battery died in the process of putting things back together as they were originally. Will get the battery charged up and see how things go. Will need to find the culprit that drained the battery.

I would think that if you put it back the way it was , that it should work . just put the short jumper in , and rerout the purple up to the new relay , leave the others the way they were

[utee05]

Well I am still unsure why the truck won't start. My battery is all charged up. When I go to turn the key nothing happens. I just hear a click and that is all. Could it be my ignition switch or something else?

[67 chevelle]

I doubt its your ignition switch , the click usaly indicates the selinoid working

check your wiring

[utee05]

Ok so looks like the purple wire is sending 12V when the key is turned. It seems that the issue is with my yellow wire going to my ignition coil. There is no voltage or anything at all going to it.

What does this yellow wire connect to on the inside to get the voltage? I believe it turns into a lime green color wire which connects to the neutral safety switch. Could it be the neutral safety switch not sending out voltage to this wire?

[In The Ten Ring]

Originally Posted by 19673ontree

I thought about one of those remote starts but boy if you forget to leave your truck in neutral it would be bad ! LOL
I wonder how these work too ? mine would have to have a solenoid to pat the gas twice then crank the motor
and in the winter I would need the choke cable pulled too ??? I will need a remote start robot LOL

You and me both! PO put manual choke on mine and yes it's a manual. I NEVER park in neutral....

But I never plan to drive mine in snow again so it's moot for me.

[utee05]

Currently I have everything hooked up as it originally was. Originally my yellow wire was not hooked to the starter and that is how I have it as of now. I started another thread in the electrical section to help narrow down why my yellow wire to the ignition coil is not seeing anything when I put the key in the ON position.

BTW, is all of this irrelevant since I will be putting in an HEI this week once my harness gets in?