how to install 73-87 suspension using original crossmember

[BOXER957]

I'm doing a 66 c10.I've read several posts claiming to have used all the suspension from 73-87 using the existing x-member. I have swapped everything over but the steering box and drag link aint gonna make it. Is there a different pitman arm and/or draglink needed to do this swap?

[Chevy Fleetside]

I used suspension from a 75, bolted to my 65 crossmember. I also used a power steering box from 73 to 87. Acually from an 86 becuase my power steering pump is metric. If you area using the stock steering box then you might have to get another pitman arm. This is all I can tell you as I never used the stock manual box.
I think if you contact ccp they can set you up.

[BOXER957]

I'm trying to use the steering box from the 87 also, the drag link is not even close to being able to bolt to the frame. the steering box I'm trying to figure out how to mount so that the pitman arm doesn't hit the frame, it's close.

[tincan1966]

You will need to use the donor idler arm and drill new holes in the frame on the passenger side.

For the power steering box, itself, you will need a mounting bracket- CaptainFab here sells them and they fit great.

Also you can go to the FAQ section, here, theres numerous forums on this, since it's the easiest suspension change to do.

[66 C10 383]

Captainfab makes an adapter plate just for this application. Very nice item and many on here have used his parts.

http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...d.php?t=332923

The manual steering pitman arm and the power steering pitman are not interchangeable as far as I know.

Here is also a conversion page that might help you to know what linkage parts work with what.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...57&postcount=3

[BOXER957]

I've seen Capt. fabs adapter plates but I didn't change the whole crossmember I just changed the suspension. The idler arm? won't even come close to the frame, do I put the original back on the new suspension? That and I'm not sure Fab's adapters will work seeing as I didn't change the whole crossmember. I can only get one bolt on the steering box to line up with the frame, supposedly I should have 2 that line up??

[tincan1966]

Changing the crossmember has nothing to do with the steering box.

Trust the experience here, you NEED the adapter plate. It'll position the steering box, where you need it, and if you transfer all the steering linkage as an assembly, you will be able to bolt it up after drilling new holes on the passenger side.

Read the other articles about this swap- it will make it very clear.
You will only have one bolt that is the same location when switching from manul steering to power.
You have to have an adapter bracket of some sort, no way around it, because the steering box will not bolt up flat to the frame without it.

[BOXER957]

ok, thanks for the info.I'm gonna trust the experience. I'll grab the adapter plate for the power steering and go from there. I was planning on changing the whole crossmember but got kinda shafted. The "Excellent condition" with dropped spindles turned out to be a frame a cat could walk through with a new aftermarket dropped a-arm kit so at least all that is new. I just wanted to make sure I could get away with doing it this way before I get to rambunctious. I'll order up that plate and cross my fingers.( hoping that experience doesn't translate to senility ) Thanks to all for your help here.

[tincan1966]

No senility just lots of knowledge from lots of members here, that have done this so many times.

If you have any doubts(which apparently you do) then read the many,many,many forums about this that all ask the exact same questions.

This is about the easiest thing to change on these trucks, unbolt a few parts, throw them away, bolt on some other parts, drill a few holes and you're done. it's an afternoon project at best. But hey, I may be senile, not experienced.

[BOXER957]

Nah, was just kidding on the senile thing. I've been reading until my eyes feel like they're gonna fall out, I just haven't found too many where they actually kept the original 66 crossmember and just changed the suspension parts. The few that I have found don't give a whole lot of info. I just wanted to get the input from the people that DO have the experience. I trust following in others footsteps a lot more than I do forging my own path. It took me a long time and a lot of $$ to learn that lesson, I can be a bit hard headed at times. I appreciate all and any help I can get, thanks again.

[tincan1966]

LOL I took it as such.

Something I didn't think of til your last post- A lot of guys are building trucks from the ground up-with engine/trans out, front clip off or even bare frame, rolling a complete '73-87 FE under the truck as a unit can be simpler. if you're working on a running driving truck, then swapping out the parts w/out crossmember will save you some time.

Don't forget, when doing this, you will need to also change out the master cylinder to a dual reservoir type and split the front brake lines from the proportioning valve.

[BOXER957]

That's the plan, I bought the whole truck (87) with the JDM 2 1/2 dropped a-arm kit so I could do a one stop shop. Motor,trans,brakes and front end. It wasn't until I had the crusty crossmember 1/2 way out that my fingers went right through the side...that's when I figured I'd back up and punt and try the suspension parts on the original 66 cross and see if I could get it to work. It has the HD rotors on it so I plan on getting a set of 6 luggers to match the rear and run the original rear end....That's the plan so far anyway. Thanks for the input and by all means any and all advice or even random thoughts are welcome. I'm disabled and can only work on this as my body and wallet allow so it's a tight budget and I'm really trying to do it once and get it right the first time.

[66 C10 383]

I myself have a 66 C10 with an 81 GMC 1500 parts truck. I have bought all the replaceable steering parts. Inner & outer tie rods and sleeves, pitman and idler, 2.5" drop spindles and 1.5" drop springs. All parts except the springs were bought for the 73-87. Now, do I swap my crossmember or leave the existing 66 crossmember??? At this point, I'll probably leave the 66 crossmember but since I have the 81 draglink I'll go ahead and upgrade all steering linkage to the 81.

I'll be using the 81 a-arms with the rubber bushings (or new poly bushings in my case) with new ball joints. Basically my 66 C10 will be a mid 80's truck underneath.

Same with the steering. Captainfab's adapters will help mount the 81 steering box (rebuilt one when funds allow) and also using his bracket to upgrade to a brake booster to update my truck to power disc brakes.

This gives us the classic looks along with the more modern upgrades.

Look thru some of the older suspension posts along with the builds in the projects and builds threads. The more you read the clearer it will all be.

And don't be afraid to ask questions!

[Chevy Fleetside]

Here are a couple of not so good pictures for you. Like said before I have the stock crossmember with all compnants from a 75 Chevy Truck. Drag link and idler arm included. It turns more left then right but I might have a cure for that.

[BOXER957]

Looks good, I was concerned with how close the center link was to the frame but apparently it works. Did you have to buy aftermarket motor mounts or can the originals do the job?

[blazins10]

on the orig crossmber your gonna have to
drill out the lower control arm u bolts to 1/2 holes to use
the later u bolts ( yes use the bigger ones , the 66 ones will break)
then its a bolt on affair using capyain fabs bracket and all the parts
from the 73-87 truck , only thing 66 is crossmember
yes u can reuse the 66 motor mounts and stands
the center link is like 1/8 to 1/4 off crossmember its fine
mount the ps box using the adapter then level the centerlink and drill the new holes for the idler
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[Chevy Fleetside]

I have differnt mounts becuase of the Big Block. I didn't use the bigger u bolts but plan on swapping them out soon.

[66 C10 383]

Chevy Fleetside - did you happen to do the "castor mod" or are your a-arms in the stock location?

[Chevy Fleetside]

Originally Posted by 66 C10 383

Chevy Fleetside - did you happen to do the "castor mod" or are your a-arms in the stock location?

They are in the stock location. I used 3" drop spindles. I also used the springs from the 75.

[BOXER957]

What is the " Castor Mod "?

[scottofksu]

Originally Posted by BOXER957

What is the " Castor Mod "?

You should really read the "make it handle" thread in the suspension section... Not trying to shame you, it's just that good of a read!

That being said, the castor mod is when you mount the lower control arm an inch forward (IIRC) to center the wheel in the fender opening and gain some castor for increased handling. (Someone please check my work, but that's the basic gist of it...)

[AcampoDave]

Chevyfleetside, if you find a cure for the "turns more left than right" thing I'd love to know what it is.

[BOXER957]

You can't shame me. I'm still in the "What the H$ll have I gotten myself into and how do I put it back together?" mode. I'm a long way from making it handle. I might even be a long way from centering it in the fender opening, or even having a fender opening to center it in. Once again I have proven to be my own worst enemy. Easy project....yeah..

[gulfcoast66]

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[gulfcoast66]

Posted via Mobile Device. Drag-link..with P.S.gear box..
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