Just a couple questions

[70Custom10Nut]

I feel that I need to change the headers out on my truck, in order to get the collector farther away from the starter (Look at my other posts for the drama details). since the price is about the same I'm looking at stock /rams horn manifold or another style of header. Another board member suggested a shorty that I'd never heard of but now can't remember the company. I'd like to stay with a Shorty model, but if I have to, I'll go back to the Long Tube. Also I know that certaian styles from different years fit nice, so I'm all ears on suggestions. Bottom line is that I need the exhaust itself as far away from the starter as possible. The othe r question. what does it take to change the outer bearings/seals on the rear axle. doI have to tear it completely apart and take out the axles to do this. again my ears are open. Thanks

[hugger6933]

Lets start with the last first. The rear end, the axles will have to be remove but you can do it it is as simple as removing the rear cover and taking out the pin in the carrier pin pushing in slightly on each axle so that the C clip can be removed from the end of the axle[that is the reason for taking out the pin, so to give room to push in the axles to remove the C clips]. Once the C clips are removed the axle can be pulled from the housing. Now with that out of the way you will be able to see the rear axle seal and behind it the outer bearing. A seal puller and a bearing puller may come in handy here but who knows they may come out easy. of course the install is pretty much just the backwards from the removal process.
Now on the header vs. manifold debate, as I get older, I like the manifolds more. They are less prone to leaks, have fewer fitment problems, and are not as hard to route the spark plug wires around. Now if you do need to stay with a header and they are times when that is true like much motor in the truck, or it is really modded up. In those cases a long tube may be the best option anyway for the performance aspect. now if the motor is only lightly modded, the shorty will be a good alternative, but it still may be close to the starter. There are ways to help solve the problems on your truck with the headers you have now. The problem you have sounds like it is called heat soak. I have solved this before as have others by placing a remote starter solenoid on the starter of the offending motor, and the problem will go away. To do so it involves placing a bus bar between the two terminals on the solenoid and then place a [GULP] ford type remote mounted one out of the way like up on the firewall where it can remain cool. That normally will fix the trouble. Now one more thing if you are header shopping and looking at them no matter long short or mid length tubes make sure to get the thickest flange you can, as that is what will help seal it against the blasted header leaks that we all love. Jim

[70Custom10Nut]

Thanks Jim. You're a true scholar. I 'm leaning toward the stockers for the same reason. I've been given the "If it keeps giving you problem you need to get rid of it" ultimatum for the better half, but that's not going to happen.
Are there any special couplers I have to get to mate the stockers to my exhaust? It's been so long since I've seen a stock set up, I can't remember. I'm really going for a no nonsense, no problem set up and stock is hard to beat. After all, it's not a race truck by any means.

[70Custom10Nut]

Oh I almsot forgot. Thanks too for the rear end info. I'm passing it on to the son.

[Tom Vogel]

Go stock manifolds.

[yellowbomber]

Stockers will almost certainly need a different flange. You will need to lengthen your exhaust pipes to meet the stock manifolds compared to the headers.
Cheap headers are a major PITA. Good headers are awesome. For the price I've seen manifolds at, I wonder about the cost difference too.
BE VERY CAREFUL GETTING JUNKYARD/USED MANIFOLDS. These are almost always bent, warped, twisted. and sometimes craked. I have seen many that are so bad they wouldn't bolt on without reaming out the bolt holes.
Hugger hit it with the headers. Get a nice thick flange. I have hade good luck with Summits elite heavy flange headers, and Doug Thorley headers.

[70Custom10Nut]

I hear ya. If I go with the stockers, it will be new ones. I will look for the flanges at the yard but it is too risky with the studs in the manifolds. I'm just getting tired of putting band aids and baling wire on the truck to keep it on the road. I'm going to start researching that tonight. thanks for the tips.

[70Custom10Nut]

So, I'm looking at stock manifolds from numerous catalogs, and it seems they all come with the "Smog Tube" holes. Since I have no use for these holes, will they work or can I plug them up? Or is there a vendor that has them without?