Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step

[Low Elco]

I'm sure you know, but you can get a kit from Classic that has the foam for the skin to supports. Works pretty good. I actually cut up the really stiff shipping foam from the new doors and slipped that in when when I was blocking.

I was wondering if that scoop was 'glass or metal, I couldn't tell in the pics. I like the shape of it.

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by Low Elco

I'm sure you know, but you can get a kit from Classic that has the foam for the skin to supports. Works pretty good. I actually cut up the really stiff shipping foam from the new doors and slipped that in when when I was blocking.

I was wondering if that scoop was 'glass or metal, I couldn't tell in the pics. I like the shape of it.

This particular hood has really inconsistent gaps between the skin and the supports. Not sure how much deformation you might get where the gaps are tight and whether it would be loose elsewhere. The aftermarket hood I bought for Silver had expanded foam in all the gaps. Looked like crap until I trimmed it with an Xacto knife, but was fine after that. Seemed to hold pretty good. Not sure if it was some kind of industrial product, but hopefully, the foam you get from the hardware store will suffice. May have to do a test panel before committing.

The scoop panel is metal but I have no idea what it came off of. It was tacked and bondo'ed to the hood that was on CRLS when I bought it, so I cleaned around the edges and cut the welded spots to remove it. Then threw it in the pile of stuff that went to the blasters. Wasn't sure I'd use it, but I'm all in now.

[Low Elco]

Hey, please don't use the great stuff stuff from the hardware store. It draws and retains water and causes our old friend rust, and it'll collapse under pressure (I.e. blocking). Call Auto Color and Equipment and tell them what's up. They have much better stuff special fer that kinda thang. 254-5630 ask for Joe.

I dig the scoop.

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by Low Elco

Hey, please don't use the great stuff stuff from the hardware store. It draws and retains water and causes our old friend rust, and it'll collapse under pressure (I.e. blocking). Call Auto Color and Equipment and tell them what's up. They have much better stuff special fer that kinda thang. 254-5630 ask for Joe.

I dig the scoop.

Thanks, Chip. I'll give them a call for sure! Don't need ANY of the problems you mentioned.

[SigFTW]

WOW, for a future daily driver it's going to look like a show car, awesome build!!

I have been working on my first rebuild/refurbish (1979 SB Chevy) and it's nothing like what you have done. I still have a lot to learn and to do to finish and get it street ready.

Your post has inspired me to do a ground up build on my next one. Thanks for all the great info, look forward to your progress!!!

Fellow Texan
Dave

[Low Elco]

Originally Posted by SigFTW

WOW, for a future daily driver it's going to look like a show car, awesome build!!

I have been working on my first rebuild/refurbish (1979 SB Chevy) and it's nothing like what you have done. I still have a lot to learn and to do to finish and get it street ready.

Your post has inspired me to do a ground up build on my next one. Thanks for all the great info, look forward to your progress!!!

Fellow Texan
Dave

You gotta watch it around Vic. The quest for perfection is infectious.

[sduckworth13]

Originally Posted by Low Elco

You gotta watch it around Vic. The quest for perfection is infectious.

Couldn't agree more Chip. Keep up the nice work Vic.

[gdavis]

I looked for the M10x1.50 tap but I did not have it in my arsenal of tools. So I went and bought one. It worked real nice. Thanks a lot there man and God Bless

[jlsanborn]

Originally Posted by gdavis

I looked for the M10x1.50 tap but I did not have it in my arsenal of tools. So I went and bought one. It worked real nice. Thanks a lot there man and God Bless

Awesome!

[Low Elco]

People......helping people...... Who's up for kumbaya?

Glad it worked out for ya, George.

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by Low Elco

People......helping people...... Who's up for kumbaya?

Glad it worked out for ya, George.

Yep, in fact, I'm working on OPS (other people's stuff) for the next few days. Some sprint car machine work, some wiring and plumbing and etc. So CRLS will have to be patient for a little bit.

[Dean'smeanmachine]

this is such an adictive build, once you look at the first page then the second then the third you cant stop and you find yourself an hour into it

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by Dean'smeanmachine

this is such an adictive build, once you look at the first page then the second then the third you cant stop and you find yourself an hour into it

Thanks, Dean. This build thread has meandered around a lot more than my previous one. I didn't really start that thread until the truck was done, so it was sort of the Readers Digest version. I've been able to document this one in much greater detail, so it is a bit of a stemwinder. Nice thing about this approach is, I get the benefit of many great suggestions from my forum buddies and have time to integrate them into the build. I appreciate all who hang out and keep me motivated.

[swamp rat]

Updates?

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

Updates?

Ummm... not really. Been tied to the lathe, the mill and the TiG working on buddy stuff, plus took several days to help my main man, Jay, run wiring in his '52 5-window. I think I see some light at the end of the tunnel though. Should be back on CRLS by tomorrow afternoon.

[Low Elco]

Originally Posted by Vic1947

Yep, in fact, I'm working on OPS (other people's stuff) for the next few days. Some sprint car machine work, some wiring and plumbing and etc. So CRLS will have to be patient for a little bit.

Ha, coincidence... I spent Saturday fitting 5lb. of Neighbor Jay into a 3lb. 600cc Micro Sprint car. Had to move/fab a bunch of stuff! Hopefully gonna be a lot of Yellow OPS going on soon.

Can't wait for the next update.

[Vic1947]

Some small progress today. Took Chip's advice and went to Auto Color and bought the 3M two part urethane expanding foam and filled the gaps in the hood. Thankfully, one tube was all I needed. It's the same basic stuff the OEM's use for filling gaps and sound deadening. 3M part number is 08463. It's a closed cell foam, although I probably compromised that somewhat by trimming the excess away from the support structure. It will be covered with 3M Body Schutz anyway, so there should be no long term ill effects. The counterman said you need to be speedy when laying it down as it will actually set up in the end of the mixing tube. So I zipped right along ...probably faster than needed. Had a couple of small voids I had to go back and hit a second time. Two things I found out were 1) re-coating results are ho-hum and 2) if you get the stuff on your fingers it takes a belt sander to remove it.

Within 40 seconds it's hardened enough to trim. I used a combination of razor blades, an Xacto knife and a sharp putty knife to scrape away the excess. Any remaining residue comes right off with ScotchBrite. The end result was very sturdy. The flexing I previously observed in the hood skin is gone and it should easily support the weight when I use the 3M adhesive to attach the hood riser.

On another front, I spent several days working with my buddy, Jay, on the wiring for his 5 window Chebby. That's him sprawled under it tying wire bundles to the chassis. In return, he sent a Millermatic 180 Auto Set wire welder home with me. When he moved, his new garage wasn't wired for 220V, so he got a Miller Sidekick. The 180 Auto Set was collecting dust in his attic ...but not anymore! And yes, this is the same Jay that gave me a Flaming River tilt column when he upgraded to a chrome one. Truck buddies occupy a special place in the universe! With the mighty Speedglas back in service, I'm loaded for bear where welding is concerned.

[Dean'smeanmachine]

good update

[sduckworth13]

Nice score on the welder Vic.

[jlsanborn]

I might just grab some of that stuff. Looks great! Spendy? My hood is pretty flexy too. It still has the OG foam pads that I trimmed back.
That was a pretty kind deal between you and Jay. Is Jay on the board? Build thread? Congrats on the Speedglas too! I know you were missing it. Looking forward to body work on CRLS!

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by Dean'smeanmachine

good update

Originally Posted by sduckworth13

Nice score on the welder Vic.

Originally Posted by jlsanborn

I might just grab some of that stuff. Looks great! Spendy? My hood is pretty flexy too. It still has the OG foam pads that I trimmed back.
That was a pretty kind deal between you and Jay. Is Jay on the board? Build thread? Congrats on the Speedglas too! I know you were missing it. Looking forward to body work on CRLS!

Thanks, guys.

John, the 3M stuff was a bit pricey. Bought it retail, but they let me use the applicator at no charge. If I'd had my own, I could have gotten just the pookie off eBay for around $37.

Jay just lurks on the board. He recently retired and is now able to spend more time on his build, but hasn't started a thread. I think I recall him saying he's been working on his ride for 6+ years. That's a lot to remember if you backtrack on a thread. Listening to some of the horror stories he told me makes me think he may not want to dredge those memories back up.

[swamp rat]

Welcome back!

So did you only lay a bead on both sides of the supports? At first i thought you filled the entire area behind/inside the supports so wanted to be sure.

Let us know how you like the auto set feature, i have the 180 without the auto set.

Originally Posted by Vic1947

Some small progress today. Took Chip's advice and went to Auto Color and bought the 3M two part urethane expanding foam and filled the gaps in the hood. Thankfully, one tube was all I needed. It's the same basic stuff the OEM's use for filling gaps and sound deadening. 3M part number is 08463. It's a closed cell foam, although I probably compromised that somewhat by trimming the excess away from the support structure. It will be covered with 3M Body Schutz anyway, so there should be no long term ill effects. The counterman said you need to be speedy when laying it down as it will actually set up in the end of the mixing tube. So I zipped right along ...probably faster than needed. Had a couple of small voids I had to go back and hit a second time. Two things I found out were 1) re-coating results are ho-hum and 2) if you get the stuff on your fingers it takes a belt sander to remove it.

Within 40 seconds it's hardened enough to trim. I used a combination of razor blades, an Xacto knife and a sharp putty knife to scrape away the excess. Any remaining residue comes right off with ScotchBrite. The end result was very sturdy. The flexing I previously observed in the hood skin is gone and it should easily support the weight when I use the 3M adhesive to attach the hood riser.

On another front, I spent several days working with my buddy, Jay, on the wiring for his 5 window Chebby. That's him sprawled under it tying wire bundles to the chassis. In return, he sent a Millermatic 180 Auto Set wire welder home with me. When he moved, his new garage wasn't wired for 220V, so he got a Miller Sidekick. The 180 Auto Set was collecting dust in his attic ...but not anymore! And yes, this is the same Jay that gave me a Flaming River tilt column when he upgraded to a chrome one. Truck buddies occupy a special place in the universe! With the mighty Speedglas back in service, I'm loaded for bear where welding is concerned.

[Low Elco]

Glad it worked out for you. A smear of seam sealer will smooth up the looks of that stuff. Joe and the guys are good folks, I'm going over there this afternoon.

Nice score on the welder, that's a good 'un. Can't wait for the next installment!

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

So did you only lay a bead on both sides of the supports? At first i thought you filled the entire area behind/inside the supports so wanted to be sure.
Let us know how you like the auto set feature, i have the 180 without the auto set.

Originally Posted by Low Elco

Glad it worked out for you. A smear of seam sealer will smooth up the looks of that stuff. Joe and the guys are good folks, I'm going over there this afternoon.
Nice score on the welder, that's a good 'un. Can't wait for the next installment!

The 3M product is much better suited to the job than the hardware store stuff. I ran the tip of the mixing tube right up against the edges of the supports which forced the unexpanded liquid into the gap. As it set (quickly) it expanded both directions and adhered to anything it touched. I didn't have enough material to try to fill the voids behind the supports. Although, I did waste some by squeezing out too large a bead in places. I reckon if you used it often, you'd get the hang of how much you really need and how fast you need to go.

I've been using the welder on the manual settings so far. The test piece I tried had a lot of rust pitting on the backside and the auto feature seemed to be running a bit hot and burned thru in spots. When I dialed back the auto setting for the material thickness, I wasn't satisfied with the appearance of the weld. I think if you're welding new metal, it would be pretty close. I was also using .030 instead of .023 wire. I have some .023 contact tips on the way so I'll swap over to the smaller wire and try it again. It has much less spatter than the Eastwood box I've been using.

Thanks again, Chip for turning me onto Auto Color. They're very helpful. I'll be over there today as well returning the applicator gun.

[Low Elco]

Anytime! Glad I actually had something helpful to throw in.