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#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Atlanta GA
Posts: 94
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Ignition problems
So when I turned the key over it cranks but won't turn over and I turned my key back off took it out and it still tries to crank over, so I got a new ignition switch keys n bezel put the new one on and it still does the same thing. What is goring on??
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#2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Atlanta GA
Posts: 94
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Re: Ignition problems
Could it be how my starter and coil are wired? It looks like it was rigged a while back I'm not sure... It is the original wire from the bulk half way then it split to two yellow wires one to the coil one to the starter..
Also my ground cable got really hot so I got new ones and Found a wire from the I guess hood support/ grill that was touching (not hooked up) to the junction block. I'm thinkin ab takeing it off I moved it off the junction block and it started up n ran for ab a minuet then died the battery has ran dead so I'm gonna charge that, but I need to figure out why it won't shut off n stop crankin when I turn my key back. |
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#3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Atlanta GA
Posts: 94
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Re: Ignition problems
Forgot to mention I just had to start rebuilt about 2 months ago is it possible the solenoid is already sticking? I trust the guy I had to do it he does all of our farm rigs
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#4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Bowser
Posts: 13,628
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Re: Ignition problems
Stop talking to yourself!! LOL!!
I'm assuming you have a points ignition. The yellow wire goes to the 'I' terminal (closest one to the block) on the solenoid and to the + side of the coil on the other end. You might have the solenoid wired backwards. |
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#5 |
Who Changed This?
![]() Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Simi Valley, CA
Posts: 10,440
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Re: Ignition problems
On points ignition GM vehicles, there are two terminals besides the big one for the main starter cable from the battery positive. One is labeled "S", and it is on the frame side of the starter (away from the engine block). It should have the 8 or 10 Gauge purple wire from the ignition switch attached to it. The other terminal is labeled "R", and has a smaller yellow wire attached to it that supplies power to the coil while cranking.
"S" stands for "Start" and "R" stands for "Resistance", btw. Resistance, because the resistance across the solenoid's many, many windings provides voltage drop so that the coil isn't hit with full battery voltage during cranking. Power to the coil comes from the solenoid during cranking. If by "cranking", you mean that the starter spins, but the truck does not turn over, the Bendix spring in the starter is bad, or bound on the shaft. If it is still "cranking" after you took the key out, the purple wire is still getting power. You will have to chase that problem down. How did you stop it from doing that? Remove a battery cable?
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~Steven '70 Chevy 3/4T Longhorn CST 402/400/3.56 Custom Camper Simi Valley, CA |
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#6 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Atlanta GA
Posts: 94
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Re: Ignition problems
Hey now we all talk to ourselfs haha. And I was told purple inside yellow outside... They did have the + coil hotwired to the battery it was stupid I had to find and trace the right wires and yes I unhook my battery I'm eventually going to put a battery shut off switch...
But even if I have it wired backwards why is it still trying to turn over after I shut it off? And haveing it wired backwards would be turning my starer in the opposite direction why did it start? |
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