04-28-2014, 09:15 AM | #1 |
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Cab rot
How far gone is to far gone ? On the fence here, some say find another cab I'm gettin jammed up with finding another cab that may be only a little better than what I have now. Below the waist line;
• floor totally gone better off with new complete floor • lower door pillars need all 4 • rockers both of em • cab corners both of em Firewall has the two upper corners with rot Lower firewall foot well areas flat and verticals Top of A pillar small spot and under the gutters Top of back glass pinch weld is rotted for 12-18" I'm in ct not much decent inventory left up here for cabs I got a guy that can sand blast it for cheap I'm willing to do the work But I'm not a body man just trying to get an idea of how bad this can turn out I've read all of Vic's posts and he makes it look easy So go for it ? Or find another ? Thanks |
04-28-2014, 09:18 AM | #2 |
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Re: Cab rot
find another. something with atleast no roof rot.
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04-28-2014, 10:00 AM | #3 |
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Re: Cab rot
dam.
id say if you had the time and effort to wanna spend and fix that cab just to say you did it go ahead. but for the money and time invested vs getting a new cab, id definately go for a new cab. one with atleast just a little rocker rot or something.. sounds pretty harsh the way your cab was described with the amount of rot.
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1969 Shortbed in progress 1982 short step, few suspension and motor upgrades.getting a 468 1978 Shortbed fleet side bonanza fully loaded 1978 k20 Silverado loaded.currently engine-less 1989 k10 suburban 9" lift 65 nova And more |
04-28-2014, 10:41 AM | #4 |
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Re: Cab rot
I'm in the same dilemma. I know of a 100% clean cab for 1000 and every bodyshop I've talked to wants at least that much just to fix the rust in the driver's side but at what point am I restoring this truck or another one?
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1969 Chevy C10 2wd stepside longbox |
04-28-2014, 10:50 AM | #5 |
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Re: Cab rot
I was in the same boat as you are!
Just not worth the time and money when if your patient you can find a cab for about $500 sometimes less. As you can see by the picture the rout i took, pretty much same rot as you. Im concentrating on the frame and drive train then ill concentrate on the cab. |
04-28-2014, 10:59 AM | #6 |
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Re: Cab rot
Sounds like you would be ahead of the game to get another cab?
Check with "Woody" know on the board as "southern parts" and he lives not to far from the sc line. Straight up guy,resonable also. Hope this helps. Joe
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04-28-2014, 11:02 AM | #7 |
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Re: Cab rot
A buddy of mine is in to the land rovers the early ones Aluminum body steel frame
Frames disintegrate bodies live He buys newgalvanized frames for $3k and a way you go I still want my old chevy !! |
04-28-2014, 01:13 PM | #8 |
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Re: Cab rot
It will be tough to find a good cab in the New England area. I've had several over the yrs, but I bought them out west and had the shipped. If you can find a good cab out out west for $500 and get it shipped for $1,000 your into it for $1,500 but still ahead of the game. You have a nice sold original cab. If there's that much rust visible, your going to find much more when you dig into it, and other areas that will be popping through in a short time.
Keep your eyes open on this site and craigslist, you might get lucky and find someone that is giving up on their project and has a nice cab. Gary
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04-28-2014, 01:24 PM | #9 |
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Re: Cab rot
I know a guy locally that' s got at least a dozen of them in better shape than what you described problem is the shipping.
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1969 Chevy C10 2wd stepside longbox |
04-28-2014, 03:06 PM | #10 |
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Re: Cab rot
Find you a better cab. Even one from the desert states. You will be better off even with shipping.
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04-28-2014, 04:29 PM | #11 |
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Re: Cab rot
Here are some pics of the cab he is talking about
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04-28-2014, 04:53 PM | #12 |
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Re: Cab rot
Hold out for a new cab. I found one that was about 90% rust free in northeastern CT. Paid $650 bucks for it. There wasnt one panel that needed complete replacing, just small patches. The thing that worries me about the one you have there is how rotted the roof is, thats hard to replace.
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04-28-2014, 06:13 PM | #13 |
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Re: Cab rot
Here is a nice stash of short beds, he also said he has 2 nice cabs for 1200.00 each
http://williamsport.craigslist.org/pts/4383187813.html
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04-28-2014, 06:24 PM | #14 |
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Re: Cab rot
As said above there are cabs out there. I just sold a cab off a 68 with one bad rocker and zero rust anywhere else for 500 bucks. They are out there. Good luck
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05-10-2014, 07:09 PM | #15 |
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Re: Cab rot
Uncle. I had thoughts and ideas about just doing whatever it takes to just piece this thing back together So today I cut the drivers rocker off - mind you it was a scabbed on slip over replacement and I was grinding some paint off under the vent flap area near your feet - paper thin with all kinds of pin holes. So there you have I'll take everyones advice and give up on this cab. I stopped at one guys house with a truck in the yard and that cab is worse than mine so I stopped at another place with a truck and left my number we'll see what happens with this one otherwise guess I gotta take a ride to somewhere sunny Frame is done, fuel tank is in, 3-53t Detroit is built and running bolted in - all that stuff seems like the easy part when you got no cab
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05-10-2014, 07:30 PM | #16 |
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Re: Cab rot
if you go to http://www.zoomthelist.com you can search all of craigslist hopefully it will help you find a cab
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05-10-2014, 07:35 PM | #17 |
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Re: Cab rot
Thanks for the heads up on zoom. I knew about searchtempest and found a couple low hump cabs but I need/want a high hump with roof lights
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07-15-2014, 12:42 PM | #18 |
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Re: Cab rot
Exciting news to report children !
I found a cab ! Good roof, headliner, gutters, pillars, cowl, firewall, vent boxes, foot wells, and most of the floor is still intact !!! Corners are gone but not to far up rockers are gone bit the rear pillar is there , low hump one piece floor- wanted a hi hump, wanted roof lights too but this cab is without, inner rockers are gone as well, front pillar bottoms are gone but not as hi as the lower door hinge So there's the basic description of what I now have to work with And here's where the board members suggestions are sought ! Should I - am I better off buying a complete floor with the high hump opening I've read a few threads on the whole floor replacement and it looks like quite an undertaking but very doable I like the idea based on the fact it gives you all the cab mounts and a complete rear support and the inner rockers all in one shot Suggestions welcome. Thanks |
07-15-2014, 12:58 PM | #19 |
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Re: Cab rot
Clean rust free cabs can be found here for $5-700 with titles ,then use U-SHIP to haul it home and bolt it on for a lot less than rebuilding all that rust .
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07-15-2014, 01:56 PM | #20 |
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Re: Cab rot
I rebuilt my cab rockers, putter floors inner rockers, can corners, all 4 pillars and the supports. Pita, but doable it's just called a project here in manitoba.
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07-15-2014, 02:30 PM | #21 |
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Re: Cab rot
Hemi Cuda convertible? One of three? Save it.
Chevy truck? One of three million, five hundred and sixty thousand? Find a better one. [Exceptions for family and sentimentality trump value sometimes]
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07-15-2014, 08:29 PM | #22 |
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Re: Cab rot
its nice to see someone else from ct ! I agree its easier to find a better cab body work is time comsuming and expensive .
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07-16-2014, 07:55 AM | #23 |
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Re: Cab rot
I wouldn't go the whole floor route unless it really needs it. The high hump is easy to do, the out-line for the high hump is embossed in the floor of your cab already. Just by a high hump, trace out the out-line & the woles, cut out the floor, tac-weld flanged nuts on the under side of the floor, and bolt your high hump on. When looking for a high hump keep in mind the holes in them for the shifters are in different location. 2wd, 4wd, auto, standard, So get one that's correct for your application.
Gary
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