A833 Rebuild

[MalibuSSwagon]

This thread is to document my progress on my A833 rebuild

I was scanning craigslist and I came across an ad for a chevy four speed for cheap. I recognized what it was, but procrastinated for a week over it. Then the guy reposted it for $70 so I couldn't pass it up. Short road trip after work and this little gem was mine.



So as you might expect, people doesn't usually give away four speeds, I mean it was pretty much free seeing as it came with a good bellhousing. well he said it sat outside a long time and was stuck. However we could move the shifter arms so I had hope. Pulled off the side to start.



Eww...looks worse than it is. Seems the gear oil protected most of the internals, but it was definitely sitting with water in it for a while.

I found a procedure to rebuild an A833 OD and continued the disassembly.



There is one special tool for this job, it is a 15/16" diameter steel rod in 9 1/8" length. I did not buy this tool. I used a piece of copper pipe that was slighty smaller to push out the counter shaft. Countergear set will fall into the bottom of the case and spill a bunch of needle bearings. No worries, gotta replace those. Saved them all anyways.

This is where I am at now.



Still need to remove the main shaft from the tailhousing and disassemble that. Need bigger snap ring pilers to get that done.

Now, here are my concerns.

First, seems like someone dropped the trans on something hard and pointy. There is a dent on the outside of the case and inside....



It's not cracked thru but still a concern. Pretty much on the middle of the case so doesn't seem like it would get stressed much. Should I have someone weld it or just cook out the goo with a propane torch and fill it with JB?

Also, my cluster gear has some rust pitting. Considering replacing it, other gears seem to be ok. Brewers sells nice used gears for $80, but then the shipping. Might track down a Dodge A833 OD to strip the good gears out of, a few available around here for $200. Thinking that's worth the price if the shifter is still attached, and gives me leftover parts to resell.

Lastly, need a rebuild kit. Thinking about calling Brewers even tho they don't list a Chevy kit, but maybe they can piece a kit together. A few Chevy specific kits on ebay as well, not sure what the quality on those are.

I'll be updating this with my progress.

[geezer#99]

These guys might have what you need.
http://www.passonperformance.com/

[Rubble]

I am watching this as I need to do mine as well.Where did you find the rebuild procedure? I found some online for the non OD version,but that's it.

[Rubble]

Here is another on I have found:www.drivetrain.com parts catalog

[TheBlueBomber]

Subscribed!! I've been looking for one of these for a while now.

[MalibuSSwagon]

I used this as a guide to take it apart.

http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/t..._case_buildup/

I plan on finding a factory procedure online or buying a manual for when I reassemble, to make sure I get all the bits and pieces back in the right order.

[Keith Seymore]

Nice score, thanks for documenting the rebuild.

Did it come with the shifter, too?

Any idea what model year trans this particular one is? If it was originally built into a complete vehicle there should be a VIN stamping on the case somewhere.

K

[MalibuSSwagon]

Originally Posted by Keith Seymore

Nice score, thanks for documenting the rebuild.

Did it come with the shifter, too?

Any idea what model year trans this particular one is? If it was originally built into a complete vehicle there should be a VIN stamping on the case somewhere.

K

No shifter sadly. My plan right now is to buy a used or new Hurst shifter body, making the mounting plate, and either making the rods or finding some off the shelf ones that work.

The vin was stamped on a pad on the side of the case. Appears it may be a 1980 or early 81 trans, VIN is CB11840901. Also has a GM part# stamped in below the VIN, 14030811.

[MalibuSSwagon]

Left the counter gear to soak in evapo rust all night. This is how it came out.



Opinions?

[NONHOG]

Can't offer any help on the gears but have you thought about those alloy welding rods? The type you see at fairs and car shows?
They would work for filling any void that the crack might have.

Only need a propane torch. Just a thought.

[Keith Seymore]

Originally Posted by MalibuSSwagon

No shifter sadly. My plan right now is to buy a used or new Hurst shifter body, making the mounting plate, and either making the rods or finding some off the shelf ones that work.

The vin was stamped on a pad on the side of the case. Appears it may be a 1980 or early 81 trans, VIN is CB11840901. Also has a GM part# stamped in below the VIN, 14030811.

Thank you; good info.

I'll be interested to see how retrofitting a shifter works out.

K

[MalibuSSwagon]

Thanks Keith. I will be scouring the internet looking for bits to put the shifter together. Trying to keep a low budget on this.

I was recommended to use evaporust on the gears as its non corrosive. Check out the clutch fork after soaking half for a few hours





Works great!

[TheBlueBomber]

If you soak metal in vinegar for a day or two it'll eat through the rust and leave it bare metal/painted surface.. probably cheaper too. I use it on bolts all the time. Can use it on bigger parts if you've got a tub big enough and the good thing is you can store it for later if you have a container

[INSIDIOUS '86]

Originally Posted by MalibuSSwagon

Left the counter gear to soak in evapo rust all night. This is how it came out.



Opinions?

Those look toasted to me. The shiny surface is gone, that would be like sand paper on sand paper.

Also look into putting a steel bushing or thrust button on the counter shaft register in the case, dodge made it floating to "reduce gear chatter" which lowers torque rating if the trans. If your not going to beat on it ever than don't worry. As for the crack I would weld it. Just to be safe. Aluminum is crack prone since a fatiguing type of metal.

[c3006]

I hate to admit this but I rebuilt a suzuki samurai tranny that had had water in it and the gears looked worse than that,I took a fine wire brush on a air grinder and cleaned them off put them back together and 33,000 mile later there still going strong and making no noise. Just sayin!

[BLT gmc]

I would use a metal filler like JB weld on the crack. As far as the gears go- Is the rust through the hard surface of the gears? If hard surface is intact you are good. If the rust is through the hard surface there is trouble in the future ie Noise, accelerated wear/failure. It would work if driven with a feather foot, no towing, heavier lubricant, and as always avoiding over-heating. Good luck, Bruce

[MalibuSSwagon]

Originally Posted by TheBlueBomber

If you soak metal in vinegar for a day or two it'll eat through the rust and leave it bare metal/painted surface.. probably cheaper too. I use it on bolts all the time. Can use it on bigger parts if you've got a tub big enough and the good thing is you can store it for later if you have a container

Yea I found out about the vinegar trick after opening the 20 dollar Evaporust container...oh well live and learn right.

Originally Posted by INSIDIOUS '86

Those look toasted to me. The shiny surface is gone, that would be like sand paper on sand paper.

Also look into putting a steel bushing or thrust button on the counter shaft register in the case, dodge made it floating to "reduce gear chatter" which lowers torque rating if the trans. If your not going to beat on it ever than don't worry. As for the crack I would weld it. Just to be safe. Aluminum is crack prone since a fatiguing type of metal.

The countershaft still fits quite tight into the case, i'm going to run it as is, Seems like this trans wasn't worked very hard as the syncros are still in nice shape.

Originally Posted by c3006

I hate to admit this but I rebuilt a suzuki samurai tranny that had had water in it and the gears looked worse than that,I took a fine wire brush on a air grinder and cleaned them off put them back together and 33,000 mile later there still going strong and making no noise. Just sayin!

Originally Posted by BLT gmc

I would use a metal filler like JB weld on the crack. As far as the gears go- Is the rust through the hard surface of the gears? If hard surface is intact you are good. If the rust is through the hard surface there is trouble in the future ie Noise, accelerated wear/failure. It would work if driven with a feather foot, no towing, heavier lubricant, and as always avoiding over-heating. Good luck, Bruce

I was going to run the gear as they are, but I have a line on another set of gears right now. I plan on running it hard and towing with this trans, whole reason I picked it up is the A833 is reputed to be a tough transmission, otherwise I would have got a car type trans like a T56 if it was just a cruiser.

Oh I was thinking of drilling the ends of the crack and filling with JB.

[INSIDIOUS '86]

The a833 is the toughest four speed made period. The hemi boxes esp. But they were made of cast iron and pressed non floating counter shafts and rand 80/90wt oil and are non O/D boxes the later O/D version had third removed and replaced with on O/D gear. The third fourth shift lever was flipped so overdrive was in fourth on the shifter. The cases were cast out of aluminum and were in dodge and chevy pattern. I don't think anyone really knows how strong they actually are as n O/D version but my guess is they share the same weakness as a muncie. Clutch drops and power shifting could spell death. Otherwise that's an awesome find and really cool alternative to everything else.

[MalibuSSwagon]

OK so, this transmission won't be subjected to hard abuse. I plan on installing this trans behind the TBI 305 in my 1992 Oldsmobile. I want to maintain the car's 5000 lb tow rating, as I plan on installing a class 3 hitch in the future for towing a camper, need a trans that can handle the abuse of towing. So no clutch drops and power shifting.

[Keith Seymore]

Originally Posted by MalibuSSwagon

OK so, this transmission won't be subjected to hard abuse. I plan on installing this trans behind the TBI 305 in my 1992 Oldsmobile. I want to maintain the car's 5000 lb tow rating, as I plan on installing a class 3 hitch in the future for towing a camper, need a trans that can handle the abuse of towing. So no clutch drops and power shifting.

I've been towing with mine for almost 28 years with no issues. Usually the trailer and car weigh around 4600 lbs. Never been apart. Launching on a hill can be a bit tricky but no problems otherwise.

Mine uses ATF, btw.

K

[D13]

Note that GM never put this behind a 350. 305 and its 6.2 diesel, and Keith's 4.3, yes. Be nice and enjoy OD.
There are 2 distinct shifters, seemingly for 2wd and 4wd applications. I've heard of people modding the Mopar shifter but not actually seen a write up on it.

[hatzie]

I had an A833 in my 1969 Polara.
The Hurst 4 speed shifter is available for the Chrysler A833. Mot sure what the differences are in the GM unit. You can buy the Mopar B, C, & E body A833 shifter.
Installing the needle bearings is all kinds of fun on the inside of that cluster gear. The best solution I saw was a dowel slid through as they were inserted in grease and pushed out by the actual shaft when the tranny was assembled.

[MalibuSSwagon]

I also found this in my searching, another good walkthrough on how to rebuild the A833

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/...d.php?t=166041

There is this heavy grease called Transgel that is used to reassembly, you can see it seems to easily hold the needle bearings in place. Plus its made for the job, so it is washed out by the transmission fluid once the trans is filled. Just have to find a local source for the transgel.

Keith, is ATF the factory fill for the GM A833? I read some differing opinions on the subject in my research.

[oily]

Your challenge will be finding the two big bearings made in the west ; timken, skf, nd.
The Chinese ones are very shiny mild steel copies.

"Keith, is ATF the factory fill for the GM A833? I read some differing opinions on the subject in my research. "

ran mine with 90# gear oil for a day then changed to RedLine.
Thinking of going back to 90# as I have a lot of gear noise.
Running for a few years without problems.

[hatzie]

The 1969 Plymouth Fury factory manual states... SAE 140. If you experience hard shifting in cold weather SAE80, SAE90, & ATF. ATF is not suitable for summer use.

That being said. Modern synthetic oils are much different from their 40+ year old ancestors. I've run modern synthetic ATF in my 1969 Dodge Polara and my 1969 Monaco 500 all year. I've also run Synthetic multi-weight GL-5 gear oils more recently.

Here's a thread from the Dodge Charger guys. I've read similar on the C-Body Drydock.
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/in...?topic=82080.0