sandblasting question? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

69 air cab · 01-12-2004, 10:52 PM

I keep hearing that I should not sandblast my truck (currently in 1000 parts) because if gets the metal out of shape. If I sandblasted the fender and doors and not the other part would that just give me more pain later? I have no way to bead blast.

krazy_texan · 01-12-2004, 11:02 PM

i would have stuff like the frame sand blasted as for body parts i would have them media blasted, it causes less distortion to the metal

**Bernie** · 01-12-2004, 11:05 PM

If you get someone to sandblast at 1000 psi it probably would distort things. I use a 90 psi harbour freight special and have had no problems.

Tx Firefighter · 01-13-2004, 12:32 AM

Everything on my truck but the front fenders (NOS) was sandblasted. No problems at all.

Rooster's 67 · 01-13-2004, 12:47 AM

jsut dont spray in the same area for to long it can heat the metal up to the point where it warps. keep the gun moving and feel the temp of the metal often with a bear hand and when it feels really warm move to another spot.

Chevy Punk · 01-13-2004, 01:59 AM

Are there different "grits" of sand blasting material? if so what kind would work to quickly remove original paint off my hood?
Tx, your truck is absolutely beautiful.

Rooster's 67 · 01-13-2004, 02:03 AM

there are different grits and there are different mediums ask at the sand blast place. tell them what you are doing.

Slammed67 · 01-13-2004, 02:10 AM

I'm sure you already know this, but if you are going to sandblast (or paint, etc), make sure you wear a good respirator!!

doughby82 · 01-13-2004, 03:52 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Slammed67
I'm sure you already know this, but if you are going to sandblast (or paint, etc), make sure you wear a good respirator!!

and make sure you got clean filters.i was blasting once and didnt relize i wasnt get alot of air.when i was done i took off my mask and relized my heart was racing.i know it sounds dumb,but i didnt relize it.

*1972C10* · 01-13-2004, 05:39 AM

They sell that aluminum oxide in different grits .. I just use plain on sand that i dig up at the lake it works just as good as any other sand but that aluminum oxide stuff works hella good.

TEXAS 68 · 01-13-2004, 11:18 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Bernie
If you get someone to sandblast at 1000 psi it probably would distort things. I use a 90 psi harbour freight special and have had no problems.

I'm using the same blaster with black beauty and have had no problems with distorting panels. TX Firefighter your truck is the look I had in mind for my 68, very nice!!

Yellow Cheyenne · 01-13-2004, 11:38 AM

Doors and fenders should be ok to blast, but be very careful with the hood as they are a big piece of sheet metal that doesn't really have much support. I'd probably not blast the hood (learned all of the above the hard way

)

Randy

72MARIO · 01-13-2004, 04:09 PM

My roof warped when I blasted it

69 air cab · 01-13-2004, 09:52 PM

Thanks guys..very good feedback. I think I am hearing take it easy and don't do the large surfaces. Tx Firefighter.....what's the color on your truck.........that looks just like where I am heading......really nice job.

Low69CST · 01-13-2004, 10:08 PM

You can blast large surfaces, just keep the blaster nozzel good distance back, keep it always on the move and don't set and dig in one spot. We've always done it with no problems

kens71gmc · 01-13-2004, 10:39 PM

Hello, had my cab and doors plastic bead blasted 70 miles away and all other parts sandblasted nearby. Bead blasting was expensive, sandblasting by far cheaper. Got excellent results from both. It all boils down to the person behind the gun. Good luck. ( my first reply, did i do alright?!)

Solver · 01-14-2004, 12:19 AM

I have sand blasted my box sides with no ill effects. As they say just keep moving

As a side note I agree with the others on firefighters truck and want more pics! including interior

Tx Firefighter · 01-14-2004, 01:08 AM

That orange truck turned out very disapointing to me. It was my first complete frame off resto. I learned a lot on it though. You should see my Blazer, it's the nice one. The truck I'm doing now is going to be the real deal too though.

No more casual frame up builds for me. I'm getting serious about them now.

71swb4x4 · 01-14-2004, 01:20 AM

Tx Firefighter - we would love to see your Blazer. Why don't you start a thread with some pics of your Blazer when you get time.

Shawn

01-12-2004, 10:52 PM	#1
69 air cab Registered User Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Maryville, TN Posts: 477	sandblasting question? I keep hearing that I should not sandblast my truck (currently in 1000 parts) because if gets the metal out of shape. If I sandblasted the fender and doors and not the other part would that just give me more pain later? I have no way to bead blast.

01-12-2004, 11:02 PM	#2
krazy_texan Registered User Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: West Des Moines, Ia Posts: 3,233	i would have stuff like the frame sand blasted as for body parts i would have them media blasted, it causes less distortion to the metal __________________ Krazy Texan My Trucks are made with Wrenches not Chop Sticks 1967 GMC 3/4 ton "Johnny Cash" 1990 v1500 suburban 1967 Ford f100 Swb 4x4 "green bean" GOD BLESS JESUS, JOHN WAYNE, AND THE ALAMO

01-12-2004, 11:05 PM	#3
Bernie Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Northern Illinois Posts: 516	If you get someone to sandblast at 1000 psi it probably would distort things. I use a 90 psi harbour freight special and have had no problems. __________________ Bernie

01-13-2004, 12:32 AM	#4
Tx Firefighter Watch out for your cornhole ! Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Azle, Texas Posts: 14,162	Everything on my truck but the front fenders (NOS) was sandblasted. No problems at all. __________________ I'm on the Instagram- @Gearhead_Kevin

01-13-2004, 12:47 AM	#5
Rooster's 67 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: DFW Posts: 765	jsut dont spray in the same area for to long it can heat the metal up to the point where it warps. keep the gun moving and feel the temp of the metal often with a bear hand and when it feels really warm move to another spot. __________________ The problem with America is stupidity. I'm not saying there should be a capital punishment for stupidity, but why don't we just take the safety labels off of everything and let the problem solve itself?

01-13-2004, 01:59 AM	#6
Chevy Punk Registered User Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Blaine WA Posts: 455	Are there different "grits" of sand blasting material? if so what kind would work to quickly remove original paint off my hood? Tx, your truck is absolutely beautiful.

01-13-2004, 02:03 AM	#7
Rooster's 67 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: DFW Posts: 765	there are different grits and there are different mediums ask at the sand blast place. tell them what you are doing. __________________ The problem with America is stupidity. I'm not saying there should be a capital punishment for stupidity, but why don't we just take the safety labels off of everything and let the problem solve itself?

01-13-2004, 02:10 AM	#8
Slammed67 Progress = 0% Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Kansas City, MO Posts: 2,108	I'm sure you already know this, but if you are going to sandblast (or paint, etc), make sure you wear a good respirator!! __________________ Jason - '67 GMC swb \| '57 Bel-Air 4dr hardtop \| '56 210 4dr Wagon \| 2000 GMC Sierra

01-13-2004, 05:39 AM	#10
1972C10 Account Suspended Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Texas Posts: 2,686	They sell that aluminum oxide in different grits .. I just use plain on sand that i dig up at the lake it works just as good as any other sand but that aluminum oxide stuff works hella good.

01-13-2004, 11:38 AM	#12
Yellow Cheyenne Registered User Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Eastern Kansas Posts: 488	Doors and fenders should be ok to blast, but be very careful with the hood as they are a big piece of sheet metal that doesn't really have much support. I'd probably not blast the hood (learned all of the above the hard way ) Randy __________________ '72 Cheyenne. AC, PS, PB, Rear slider window, tilt. Light yellow (grapefruit yellow according to new sales literature from '72) '56 Chevy short step V-8 (My dad bought it new!!) '70 Olds 442 convertible '70 Olds Rallye 350

01-13-2004, 04:09 PM	#13
72MARIO Registered User Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: Huntsville Ontario Canada Posts: 4,051	My roof warped when I blasted it __________________ 1968 Suburban numbers matching all original truck now equipped with 6.0/4L80 on Accuair http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=625017 1967 C/20 6.0/4L80 Roofing Truck 1990 V2500 Suburban "Plow Truck" 2005 TAHOE DD

01-13-2004, 09:52 PM	#14
69 air cab Registered User Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Maryville, TN Posts: 477	Thanks guys..very good feedback. I think I am hearing take it easy and don't do the large surfaces. Tx Firefighter.....what's the color on your truck.........that looks just like where I am heading......really nice job.

01-13-2004, 10:08 PM	#15
Low69CST Registered User Join Date: May 2000 Location: Frankfort, Kentucky, USA Posts: 2,163	You can blast large surfaces, just keep the blaster nozzel good distance back, keep it always on the move and don't set and dig in one spot. We've always done it with no problems __________________ '69 CST Short fleetside Lowered, 400 small block, 700R4, 4 wheel disc brakes, front sway bar & rear camaro sway bar (in progress) '87 V10 4x4 Short Fleetside Quad Suspension and Dual Tanks

01-13-2004, 10:39 PM	#16
kens71gmc Registered User Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Miamisburg, Ohio Posts: 20	sandblast Hello, had my cab and doors plastic bead blasted 70 miles away and all other parts sandblasted nearby. Bead blasting was expensive, sandblasting by far cheaper. Got excellent results from both. It all boils down to the person behind the gun. Good luck. ( my first reply, did i do alright?!) __________________ I have been working on 71 GMC 1/2 ton, lwb. frame off resto. 383 sb/350 turbo, dynomax ceramic headers, Flowmaster 50's, summit HEI, JET tuned Q-jet, BE COOL radiator, soon to be installled Vintage Air, tank in frame, painless wiring (love it but a couple minor problems), 2 1/2 in. drop front, 3 in. drop rear. THAT ENGINE IS NOW BORN AND HOWLING LOUDLY!

01-14-2004, 12:19 AM	#17
Solver Registered User Join Date: May 2000 Location: Storm Lake, Ia Posts: 1,449	I have sand blasted my box sides with no ill effects. As they say just keep moving As a side note I agree with the others on firefighters truck and want more pics! including interior __________________ 1972 Cheyenne Super 20 LWB-Blue 1972 Cheyenne Super 10 LWB-Black 1972 Cheyenne Super 10 LWB-Red 1972 Cheyenne Super 10 LWB-green 1972 GMC 4x4 LWB-White 1971 Cheyenne 10 LWB-Ochre 1971 Cheyenne 20 Longhorn-Copper 1971 Cheyenne 20 Longhorn-Black 1969 Custom 10 LWB-lt blue 1968 GMC 3/4 ton-green 1968 1/2 ton swb stepside-silver 1967 Chevrolet CST 10 LWB-green 1967 Chevrolet custom 20 LWB-Maroon



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01-14-2004, 01:08 AM	#18
Tx Firefighter Watch out for your cornhole ! Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Azle, Texas Posts: 14,162	That orange truck turned out very disapointing to me. It was my first complete frame off resto. I learned a lot on it though. You should see my Blazer, it's the nice one. The truck I'm doing now is going to be the real deal too though. No more casual frame up builds for me. I'm getting serious about them now. __________________ I'm on the Instagram- @Gearhead_Kevin

01-14-2004, 01:20 AM	#19
71swb4x4 Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Brookings, SD Posts: 10,497	Tx Firefighter - we would love to see your Blazer. Why don't you start a thread with some pics of your Blazer when you get time. Shawn __________________ Some people are like slinkies, they aren't good for anything, but you can't help but smile when you see one tumble down the stairs.

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