1959 Chevy suspension recommendations, rear end recommendations and transmissions?

[michaelt55]

I am the owner of a 59 Chevy SB and I would like recommendations on several things. The only criteria is to tell me why you like vice other.

I have progressive arthritis so my days of solid wrenching on vehicles for days are gone. I sold my modified 914 with a V8 and my 370z because it hurts too much to get in and out of them.

I have mostly new metal for the truck, a crate LS1 engine and a new radiator.

What trans would you add to this and would you change the stock rear? If so to what and what ratio?

I want to improve the suspension. I want disc brakes and better handling. So would you get a complete frame, put a 76-89 pickup frame under it (ez swap), or get front and rear clips?

My time frame would be about a year or so completion date and I want a daily driver not a garage or show queen.

I know this is lengthy but I see a lot of talent and experience on this forum.

Thanks,

Michael

[tmoble]

I'm partial to the 70-81 Camaro front clip myself. Heavy duty parts, lots of options, lots of stock parts available anywhere, you get disc brake, Power steering. I changed to a 1.25 diameter anti-roll bar and am now doing the 12" disc brake changeover. all parts are stock stuff off Caprice police car.

I have a 88 Vette rear axle assembly, C4 vette is how it referred to. I did mine the hard way, but Flatout Engineering has a mount kit that's near bolt-on, it's well thought of. Well worth the money if you DIY or pay somebody to do the work.

My truck drives like a Vette, rides good, no issues with the front or rear. The front clip was done in 93, the Vette rear in 2012. One caveat, the good vette rear comes out of a manual trans car, it's a Dana 44 and expensive. Mine is out of an auto trans car, it's a Dana 36, not regarded as a strong rear but I don't care, I'm not drag racing it. It's a 2.73 highway gear. I'm running an OD trans, so I am changing it to a 3.55. There's a special gear set available for this, it's made to fit on the 2.xx series carrier. 2.73 + OD, no good unless a guy lives near Bonneville. All the Vette rears are posi. Here in Phx an entire Vette rear can be had for ~$500.

You're likely to get a lot of opinions on this, some of them strong.

There's also a Flatout kit to mount the entire Vette front end on a pickup, but I don't know anybody who has already done this. A couple guys here in Phx have bought running driving C4 Vettes to get the front and rear clips, parted out the rest of the car. One guy actually made a profit on the deal.

[Speedbumpauto]

My truck has a F bird clip, only difference from Camaro is a larger sway bar. It works well, as stated, but is harder to put in. Given your time frame and my 20/20 hind sight, I'd recommend a M-2 style front clip or the neat but more costly unit from the company on this site, a slight notch in the rear frame and a spring over with a newer style rear housing. I hear the 8.8 explorer is a good candidate. I used a narrowed 9" but lots of guys don't have the ability to narrow them....or go nuts for wide tires. You'll have to rebuild/replace the rear springs for a softer ride and replace those stinking greaseable shackles with urethane. it will cost almost as much as a coil over/ 4 link but will take less time. I'd absolutely go with a 4L65 or 80 trans for the OD and lock-up converter and a FAST controller, depending on how you're going to control the LS engine and how much power you want. I think PS and AC are needed for a driver along with PB. Put the biggest radiator you can find in it, get some newer, comfortable bucket seats for it, put lots of insulation and sound deadner in the cab, do good rust repair/body work, slap on a decent paint job and you will have a fun and respectable driver.
Disclaimer; not what I built but there are days when I wish for it.

[yossarian19]

"Better handling" leaves a lot of room for interpretation.
One option is to take your stock solid axle in front and add tapered roller bearings, disc brakes, new spring bushings & leaf spring liner. Then replace your shocks & call it done. In the rear, just replace bushings & shocks.
Another option, one step up in complexity (but still not even close to a frame swap or clip or even a bolt-in IFS) is to swap to more modern leaf springs with rubber bushings. Ruffstuffspecialities.com is primarily a 4x4 company but they sell bracket kits to put 63" half-ton Chevy springs under anything. This gets you a softer ride.
As for the LS1 swap & transmission options... well, depends. If you are going with EFI, run the 4L60E. You may as well give the computer what it expects to see & take advantage of what it can do for you. If you are going carb... 700R4. You want overdrive with these trucks, especially if you keep the stock rear end.
As for IFS / IRS swaps, well, it depends on if you want to maintain the "half-ton truck" ability of your half-ton truck. Nothing wrong with putting an MII or C4 or Camaro clip under it but don't expect that you can still reasonably use it as a half-ton. Personally, I think the 2002+ Crown Victoria or C4 Corvette stuff is the way to fly. Why go to a ton of work for a 1970s suspension and then deal with aftermarket stuff to get 12" rotors when you can start with better for the same work? But then, I opted to put tapered bearings & disc brakes on my solid front end, so maybe I'm not the guy to talk to on IFS / IRS.

OK. On rear ends. Here's what I've learned
The factory rear end is pretty stout. It comes in 3.90 or 4.11 gears, you can put 3.30 gears in it and that's about all you can do with it. There are no posi or locking options. With overdrive, you'll be cruising on the freeway in the lower half of the 2000 RPM range. Without it, stay on the surface streets.
The late 60s C10 trucks came with a 12 bolt that is the right width. You can put disc brakes on it, put a posi rear in it, plenty of gear ratios are available. Etc.
The Eaton axles, I don't know much about. Ruffstuff Specialities will sell you disc brackets for them, though, and they should fit just fine.
If you hunt around for a Cab & Chassis truck's 14 bolt rear end, you get a monster of an axle at 63" width. It's an option, if you want to pour horsepower thru it or put big tires on it.
OK, wife is prompting me to get off my keister, I'll chime back in later if I think of something useful to say.

[michaelt55]

Thanks for the replies. The reason for the timeframe is that I want it right, Once, then enjoy it. Second reason is my arthritis is getting very severe so I don't have the physical capabilities to do the lift n tug stuff that I used to do. 5 years ago I was still pretty durable, not so much now.

I prefer practical stuff but if a custom frame is the way to go, then I need to suck it up and do it, I figure. but if you know of a good, mostly bolt on front or rear clips, that's good too

anybody do a EZ Chassis type swap??

[G&R's57GMC]

Check out http://www.nolimit.net they have a complete rolling chassis The BIG 10 that handles like a sports car.

Time is money !

That said you would be done as soon as you dropped the drive train and body on it.

[michaelt55]

Originally Posted by G&R's57GMC

Check out http://www.nolimit.net they have a complete rolling chassis The BIG 10 that handles like a sports car.

Time is money !

That said you would be done as soon as you dropped the drive train and body on it.

Have you tried any of their products? I saw their gear at a car show in Houston a few years ago.....

Michael

[michaelt55]

I just was lucky enough to encounter Dave Hollister at his shop in the Houston area today. I spent about 20 minutes or so asking him questions and while he did answer them all, he went one better... he showed me on the various trucks he was working on why it was a good idea. This guy is a fountain of good info. He gave me the answer for the front and rear and I also think we have the ignition, drive by wire setups too. All very practical, more of what I need than "bling" or bragging rights. Thank you very much Dave!!!

[dwcsr]

Originally Posted by michaelt55

I just was lucky enough to encounter Dave Hollister at his shop in the Houston area today. I spent about 20 minutes or so asking him questions and while he did answer them all, he went one better... he showed me on the various trucks he was working on why it was a good idea. This guy is a fountain of good info. He gave me the answer for the front and rear and I also think we have the ignition, drive by wire setups too. All very practical, more of what I need than "bling" or bragging rights. Thank you very much Dave!!!

Thanks for stopping by, its always good to catch up with customers and their rides.

[ChuckDriver]

I believe EZ Swap has a kit using the Caprice chassis, might be something to look into.

[cadman89]

If you have it figured out what you are going to do already then that's great.
I swapped out the rear end in my 56 GMC with an 88 GMC rear and kept the 6 lugs. I did a kit swap for disk brakes in the front and 2 leaf drop springs.
Then the dual master cylinder and booster under the floor. I have pictures and write ups for all of these and how I did it.
I am not a fan of Camaro clips just because I have seen so many bad jobs and one come apart from bad welds..I have also seen them done well..

I am in progress with a Chassis swap to a 69 Chassis. Easy to get parts for and drop.. and unlike EZ Chassis swaps I don't have to move the rear forward 3".
the 67-72 chassis are 115" wheelbase for the short bed C10. the bed is almost a bolt on and the cab needs to be raised up 4" 2X4 box tube worked for a friend of mine..
http://www.jalopyweb.com/55chevypu/1955pu.htm





I hope this helps and If you or anyone else wants more information I will be glad to help.. I too have arthritis and the heat here in Florida gets to me ..but.
Scott (AKA: Cadman)

[michaelt55]

Scott, nothing is set in stone...but I found a clip that is amazing simple, uses GM parts and is attainable. (thanks Dave) But if I can see how you raised the cab the 5 inches, and I can find a chassis, that too will be considered. Did you go to the 5 lug and are you keeping the C10 rear?

Michael

[michaelt55]

sorry Dave, I meant Chapman but messed up...my apologies..

Michael

[cadman89]

Originally Posted by michaelt55

Scott, nothing is set in stone...but I found a clip that is amazing simple, uses GM parts and is attainable. (thanks Dave) But if I can see how you raised the cab the 5 inches, and I can find a chassis, that too will be considered. Did you go to the 5 lug and are you keeping the C10 rear?

Michael

Hi Michael
I have not switched the body over to the new chassis yet. I am still using by truck quite a bit at the moment.
Yard work etc...



The 69 Chassis has been all rebuilt It still has the 6 lugs and uses the Rally wheels. But Disk front brakes and the C10 rear end is using around a 3:56 gear ratio the transmission is 83 Camaro T5 and the 350 is rebuilt out of a 71. The chassis runs and is ready to go. I think I will fabricate the body mounts. I do know a guy that used a peace of 2X4 Box tube across the frame for the rear of the cab and welded some metal to the front mounts to raise them up. I also talked to a guy who took the mounts off the original frame and welded a flat plate to the rear of them and a tab on the back and raised them up and bolted them to the new frame. The frames are the same width in the middle. I also talked with a guy that welded short sections of 2x2 box tube flat on the old mounts and then used a body lift kit.. I have pictures of various ways that it has been done.

Scott

[LSXapache]

I used a Camaro clip, buick skylark 10bolt rear axle, 6.0l with fbody oil pan, 4l60e trans. If I had it to do over I would go mustang2 and a 9". The Camaro clip works fine and handles well but it made a lot of clearance headaches for me that I would not have had with a M2 kit. Also the M2 kits look a lot cleaner than a Camaro clip IMO. The skylark 10bolt is a 8.5 ring gear non c clip axle so its better than the average ten bolt but its no 9" that's for sure. I'm running a 3.42 gear and I get 19.5mpg running 70mph on the interstate. If you plan on driving it much IE: not just a hop around town truck go with a 4l60 or 4l80 trans

[_Ogre]

with a one year timeline and lack of physical ability you might be better off with a rolling chassis from a vendor
i have a fatman mustII, 86 trans am rearend, gm ramjet 350 crate motor, hydroboost w/ 4 wheel disc brakes and phoenix trans 700r4
just building my frame took me over one year to fabricate, box, rebuild and plumb
rolling chassis can be ordered any way from basic frame to completely plumbed brake lines
decide if you want to open your wallet or spend the time to build your own
if your going to sub out the welding and fabrication a rolling chassis may be your best solution time and money wise

with limited physical ability a one year timeline for a complete build may not be doable
read some of the builds here, some of these builds are 3 or 4 years into building the frame
even the most minimal builds take time to do right, frame swaps are usually more time and money consuming
while my truk build had lots of breaks for life getting in the way, it took me 8 years to build it my way

[michaelt55]

Appreciate the responses, more than you know, as it helps me make up my mind what I will do.

My physicial ability is limited as to lifting and endurance as I was hit by a car a few years ago. I used to build VW convertibles, 914's etc, now they require too much contortion which = pain. I can sit down and put on brakes, a arms, etc, its just that in one year it may be worse and thats why I am trying to get it done in a time frame. I have parts sitting around just need to finalize...plan and see that the wife doesn't derail them.

I know I can plumb brake and fuel lines still, just takes a lot longer. I may even be able to hoist the rear end in place and weld what I need. WIll tell you as time goes by.

Whats the benefit of the 9 inch,like a Currie? I am looking at 10 and 12 bolt chevy rears...with posi

[michaelt55]

Ogre, I will strive to do mine at least a lower level of yours, its gorgeous!!

[LSXapache]

9" is the staple for a strong rear. But dont get me wrong a ten bolt will live in a cruiser all day long, even take a little abuse. A 12 bolt is good but unobtanium if you get your parts out of the junkyards like I do. Honestly I wouldn't worry about using a ten bolt, it's all in your goals for the truck and how u build it. Every drivetrain has a weak link, I made mine the tires/traction. Stuff usually doesnt break if it cant hook and I like burnouts!!

[michaelt55]

ok, so most people are definately divided on what rear to put in,, I have been trying to find a 12 bolt for a reasonable price and rebuild it. Most people here seem to think that the 10 inch is ok...so that may be my back up plan.

Have even looked into Currie and Strange products but they are pretty pricy also!!

But I can deal with the hunt for the rear...

[_Ogre]

if you go withe a 5 lug ifs, whether it be a clip or mustII
the 3rd gen camero/firebird/trans am is a perfect for for tf trucks
they can be had with many gear sets, open or posi diff and drum or disc brakes
they will hold up to endless/mindless smokey burnouts on street tires
they will not hold up to big hp and drag slicks

[cadman89]

Yea.. lets put a car rear end in our truck...
I bolted an 88 GMC Big Red Rear End into my 56 GMC.. it was 2 inches wider and had 2 1/2 inch wide brakes...OH somebody STOP ME..







YES! it had 6 lugs...

Scott

[Speedbumpauto]

Other than the number of wheel studs and some dimensions, the axle doesn't know if it came in a car or truck unless it's a 2500 or larger. The axle bearings in a Caprice and a 1500 are exactly the same on one option and too close to call on the other so the load carrying capacity is the same. You came up with a good, budget fix for your application but for many builds, 2" wider and having to hog out the spring pad holes and having the pads not centered on the springs would have been a game changer.

[michaelt55]

Most likely I will sure a 10 bolt chevy rear, taking some recommendations to heart...

[cadman89]

Originally Posted by Speedbumpauto

Other than the number of wheel studs and some dimensions, the axle doesn't know if it came in a car or truck unless it's a 2500 or larger. The axle bearings in a Caprice and a 1500 are exactly the same on one option and too close to call on the other so the load carrying capacity is the same. You came up with a good, budget fix for your application but for many builds, 2" wider and having to hog out the spring pad holes and having the pads not centered on the springs would have been a game changer.

I agree that it would have been better to cut off the spring pads and get the correct size and center them but this worked out great for me at the time.
I didn't have a welder or torch back when I did this. I needed my truck because I was renovating a rental house and could not be with out a truck for long. I drove it this way for about two weeks then I did a clean up and replaced the brake lines and put the shocks back on..