Need motor mount advice please

['65 chevy lover]

Originally Posted by Kenfuzed

If moving the engine forward they use the existing holes. On the cross member there is a forward hole closer to the frame that you use. If staying in the rear position you'll need to drill a new hole in the cross member.

Below are pictures of the frame mounting points before and after I trimmed it back earlier today. You can see the old location in the first picture.

These perches were originally designed for 67+ models so you have to cut back the edge of the frame for the top holes to align. I trimmed it back ~5/8" but the best way to know is to mark where the perch holes would be when pushing the perch against the frame, then measure the distance between the center of the hole and the mark. This is how far you need to cut into the frame.

With a reciprocating saw and 14 TPI blade the frame cut like butter. I cut in at an angle to make it easy.

I'm still a little confused ( not hard with my BB brain ). My truck had a 305 in it. The distributer was very close to the firewall. I'm putting in a 383 stroker motor with TH400 trans. I'm going to have to have a new drive shaft made anyway and, move the trans cross member so, I'd like to move the motor forward some to make sure I have enough room to get to the distributer cap off if needed. It also will have a electric fan driven rad from Griffin. What I'm confused about is, you mention "If moving the engine forward they use the existing holes. On the cross member there is a forward hole closer to the frame that you use. If staying in the rear position you'll need to drill a new hole in the cross member."

It looks like you didn't use the stock holes. Appears that using the holes you did moved the motor forward and, their not the stock holes but, doesn't look like you had to drill another hole. Guess I'm missing something here.

[LVPhotos]

You don't need to move motor forward for HEI. I removed Cap and distributer came out in stock spot. Your over thinking it. The two motors are the same small block base.

['65 chevy lover]

Just ordered some motor mounts like the ones you have except, I went with the poly urathane mounts because I have a fairly high HP motor(450) Not earth shattering but, way more than stock. I asked the guy about having to trim the frame and he said, on '65 trucks you didn't have to do that. I told him about a guy on a truck forum( you, not by name of course) I go to, buying these mounts. He acted surprised that you had to trim the frame. He said something about that being an issue on the earlier mounts but, not on a '65. It's not a big deal, just telling you what the guy told me. Have you had the mounts you bought for awhile? He claims that issue was corrected on later mounts. Doesn't matter to me, if I have to trim the frame rails no problem.

Originally Posted by Kenfuzed

If moving the engine forward they use the existing holes. On the cross member there is a forward hole closer to the frame that you use. If staying in the rear position you'll need to drill a new hole in the cross member.

Below are pictures of the frame mounting points before and after I trimmed it back earlier today. You can see the old location in the first picture.

These perches were originally designed for 67+ models so you have to cut back the edge of the frame for the top holes to align. I trimmed it back ~5/8" but the best way to know is to mark where the perch holes would be when pushing the perch against the frame, then measure the distance between the center of the hole and the mark. This is how far you need to cut into the frame.

With a reciprocating saw and 14 TPI blade the frame cut like butter. I cut in at an angle to make it easy.

[Kenfuzed]

Originally Posted by '65 chevy lover

I'm still a little confused ( not hard with my BB brain ). My truck had a 305 in it. The distributer was very close to the firewall. I'm putting in a 383 stroker motor with TH400 trans. I'm going to have to have a new drive shaft made anyway and, move the trans cross member so, I'd like to move the motor forward some to make sure I have enough room to get to the distributer cap off if needed. It also will have a electric fan driven rad from Griffin. What I'm confused about is, you mention "If moving the engine forward they use the existing holes. On the cross member there is a forward hole closer to the frame that you use. If staying in the rear position you'll need to drill a new hole in the cross member."

It looks like you didn't use the stock holes. Appears that using the holes you did moved the motor forward and, their not the stock holes but, doesn't look like you had to drill another hole. Guess I'm missing something here.

These are the apparent stock holes I have on mine. In the first picture there are 3 holes along the top of the frame rail. The stock position for my 250 used the middle and rear hole, and the new forward tubular mount uses the middle and front hole. It also uses the bottom hole closer to the frame.

I can try to get better pictures later of where the engine sits after mounting it yesterday.

[Kenfuzed]

Originally Posted by '65 chevy lover

Just ordered some motor mounts like the ones you have except, I went with the poly urathane mounts because I have a fairly high HP motor(450) Not earth shattering but, way more than stock. I asked the guy about having to trim the frame and he said, on '65 trucks you didn't have to do that. I told him about a guy on a truck forum( you, not by name of course) I go to, buying these mounts. He acted surprised that you had to trim the frame. He said something about that being an issue on the earlier mounts but, not on a '65. It's not a big deal, just telling you what the guy told me. Have you had the mounts you bought for awhile? He claims that issue was corrected on later mounts. Doesn't matter to me, if I have to trim the frame rails no problem.

Maybe its a different brand of mounts? I purchased mine this week from P.O.L. at their warehouse here in Corona California. I talked to the guys there who instructed me on the cutting. Maybe there are similar brands that have addressed that issue by extending the reach of the top that reaches over the rail. The ones I have would not reach the holes unless I cut back the frame slightly. They told me their mounts were originally made for late 67+ models with a narrower top width of the frame rail. I'm normally not keen on making those kind of modifications but it was super easy with a sawzall and fine tooth blade.

The side bolt mounts are also easier to line up when installing a motor by yourself like I did.

Here is the drivers side tubular perch in that forward position.


My engine is the 350 w/330 HP so no where near the 450 you are planning, so I just went with the rubber style mounts.

['65 chevy lover]

I got these from POL. They look just like yours. Who knows what the deal is. Even the picture online shows the top of the frame rail cut back. If just the flange was made longer without changing the location of the hoizontal tube, it would change the whole thing. It would make the distance between the mount tubes too narrow. Could be the tech guy I talked to, had his head where the sun don't shine...LOL If I have to cut the frame rail, no problem

Originally Posted by Kenfuzed

Maybe its a different brand of mounts? I purchased mine this week from P.O.L. at their warehouse here in Corona California. I talked to the guys there who instructed me on the cutting. Maybe there are similar brands that have addressed that issue by extending the reach of the top that reaches over the rail. The ones I have would not reach the holes unless I cut back the frame slightly. They told me their mounts were originally made for late 67+ models with a narrower top width of the frame rail. I'm normally not keen on making those kind of modifications but it was super easy with a sawzall and fine tooth blade.

The side bolt mounts are also easier to line up when installing a motor by yourself like I did.

Here is the drivers side tubular perch in that forward position.


My engine is the 350 w/330 HP so no where near the 450 you are planning, so I just went with the rubber style mounts.

[Kenfuzed]

Originally Posted by '65 chevy lover

I got these from POL. They look just like yours. Who knows what the deal is. Even the picture online shows the top of the frame rail cut back. If just the flange was made longer without changing the location of the hoizontal tube, it would change the whole thing. It would make the distance between the mount tubes too narrow. Could be the tech guy I talked to, had his head where the sun don't shine...LOL If I have to cut the frame rail, no problem

Yes the first person I spoke to said it would fit the current holes, but when I picked them up the guy there said you definitely need to modify the edge of the frame. I think that because these were originally made for 67 and later models the design would have to be altered to fit the 63-66 models. Easier for a manufacturer to have one version. My only gripe is they don't provide very good instructions. Some people may be scared off by this product if they think they have to do any cutting, but in all honesty that cut was one of the easier things I've had to tackle with this truck.

['65 chevy lover]

The cutting part didn't bother me but, thing I was concerned about was, everything bolting up after I cut the frame. As I'm sure you know, cutting the frame rails for them to fit, slides the mount back and, widens the distance between the horizontal tubes that the long bolts go thru. I see though that apparently, the fit is ok because, yours bolted up with no problem. Are you going to put two bolts where the mount attachs to the cross member or, just have one?

Originally Posted by Kenfuzed

Yes the first person I spoke to said it would fit the current holes, but when I picked them up the guy there said you definitely need to modify the edge of the frame. I think that because these were originally made for 67 and later models the design would have to be altered to fit the 63-66 models. Easier for a manufacturer to have one version. My only gripe is they don't provide very good instructions. Some people may be scared off by this product if they think they have to do any cutting, but in all honesty that cut was one of the easier things I've had to tackle with this truck.

[Kenfuzed]

Originally Posted by '65 chevy lover

The cutting part didn't bother me but, thing I was concerned about was, everything bolting up after I cut the frame. As I'm sure you know, cutting the frame rails for them to fit, slides the mount back and, widens the distance between the horizontal tubes that the long bolts go thru. I see though that apparently, the fit is ok because, yours bolted up with no problem. Are you going to put two bolts where the mount attachs to the cross member or, just have one?

The bottom of the perch has 2 holes however you only use one. One is for use if placed in the original position and the other one is used when set up in the forward position. Hard to describe but once you have them you'll see how everything aligns. I'll try to post more pics on my build thread later tonight.

[Captainfab]

I have never had a problem with removing a HEI cap or the distributor with a small block in the original rear location. I do not know why some do have that issue.

The '68-'72 frames had a narrower top flange to allow clearance for the big block exhaust manifolds. These aftermarket engine mounts are apparently made with those frames in mind. Consequently the '63-'67 frames will have to have the top flange trimmed.

['65 chevy lover]

The biggest reason I'm switching to these mounts is due to them being stronger.

Originally Posted by Captainfab

I have never had a problem with removing a HEI cap or the distributor with a small block in the original rear location. I do not know why some do have that issue.

The '68-'72 frames had a narrower top flange to allow clearance for the big block exhaust manifolds. These aftermarket engine mounts are apparently made with those frames in mind. Consequently the '63-'67 frames will have to have the top flange trimmed.

[Kenfuzed]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

I have never had a problem with removing a HEI cap or the distributor with a small block in the original rear location. I do not know why some do have that issue.

I wish that had worked for me as the original position would have saved me a few bucks. As you can see in the picture below the space between the firewall and distributor after moving forward is only 3.75" so in the original rear position you can image how the plug wire boot would be rubbing the wall. You can't see it in this pic but there is a scratch along the firewall where the bottom lip of the distributor cap would have to be forced into place at an angle when it was removed or installed. It was just a bit too tight for my liking.



Now that the engine is in the forward position I'm really pleased with the accessibility of everything.

I know that the OP (65 chevy lover) had other motives for moving the engine forward including the added strength and convenience of these later version side bolt mounts, which I have to admit I like the ease of their mounting as well.

[Old Truck Man]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

I have never had a problem with removing a HEI cap or the distributor with a small block in the original rear location. I do not know why some do have that issue.

The '68-'72 frames had a narrower top flange to allow clearance for the big block exhaust manifolds. These aftermarket engine mounts are apparently made with those frames in mind. Consequently the '63-'67 frames will have to have the top flange trimmed.

I think maybe some folks have problems because their rear transmission rubber mounts are sagging collapsed ect. that would lower the rear of the engine making firewall clearance marginal. Ive been contemplating swapping a big block engine into my 55 chevy car. I like the rear bellhousing mount that I have with the small block. My scattershield bellhousing already bolts to the stock 55 rear mounts. With a big block in a tri five you must move the engine forward or modify the firewall.. So im going to fabricate & weld extensions to my scattersheld to move it forward 2 or 3 inches and still use a front mount similar to the ones already there for the small block. Im already using a 6 cyl radiator so there wont be any problems at front. So I can understand the OP,s desire to relocate his engine forward. My posting was a attempt to clarify the facts that any small block even with a large cap GM HEI can be swapped into any 60 thru 66 truck using stock unmodified factory parts.

['65 chevy lover]

As previously stated, the main reason I wanted these mounts was for the increase in strength and, not having to rig up some type of chain setup to keep the motor from breaking the mounts when it torques/tries to turn over when you get down on it. IMHO, the fact that there is more room to be able to remove the distributer cap was just icing on the cake. The install looks great!

Originally Posted by Kenfuzed

I wish that had worked for me as the original position would have saved me a few bucks. As you can see in the picture below the space between the firewall and distributor after moving forward is only 3.75" so in the original rear position you can image how the plug wire boot would be rubbing the wall. You can't see it in this pic but there is a scratch along the firewall where the bottom lip of the distributor cap would have to be forced into place at an angle when it was removed or installed. It was just a bit too tight for my liking.



Now that the engine is in the forward position I'm really pleased with the accessibility of everything.

I know that the OP (65 chevy lover) had other motives for moving the engine forward including the added strength and convenience of these later version side bolt mounts, which I have to admit I like the ease of their mounting as well.

[Captainfab]

With the engine in the forward position I would definitely suggest going with a short water pump as Kenfuzed has.

['65 chevy lover]

This is the set up I have. I think it's the short pump but, I'm not sure. Don't have that much experience with these motors. I'm also using a Griffin Rad with twin electric fans. Pretty sure I will have enough room. What do you think Captain?

Originally Posted by Captainfab

With the engine in the forward position I would definitely suggest going with a short water pump as Kenfuzed has.

[Kenfuzed]

With the electric fans I think you should have plenty of room. I like the accessory setup you have, great looking engine.

['65 chevy lover]

Thanks Ken! Hope the engine runs as good as it looks. I'm just having problems getting enough money together to get it all put together. As I'm sure everyone on this forum knows, it's not cheap to build a hot rod! I have just about all the parts I need except for a drive shaft. Going to get a custom one made with heavy duty u-joints (1350). Will probably be a two piece with the HD carrier bearing. I'll most likely get one of Captain Fabs HD bearing support, just have to get the cash together. Wish I caould sell the other '65 I have. I have it listed here in the for sale section but, havn't sold it yet.

[Captainfab]

No that is the long water pump. You should be ok with the long pump and electric fans.

Originally Posted by '65 chevy lover

This is the set up I have. I think it's the short pump but, I'm not sure. Don't have that much experience with these motors. I'm also using a Griffin Rad with twin electric fans. Pretty sure I will have enough room. What do you think Captain?