Replacing oil pan gasket w/out removing engine

[Guy Dudebro]

I have some leaks somewhere in my oil pan and thought I'd replace the gasket to see if that fixed it. I have a 67 LWB c10. So it'll take some doing. Ideally, I would like to avoid removing the engine and unbolting from the transmission.
Can this be done? What are the best steps? Seems as if I can remove the crossmember and keep the truck braced it might work?
Any advice is appreciated.

[cdowns]

lift engine up about enough to have a 2x4 uder the engine and you can do it on your back// it's a lot easier to use the felpro one piece gaskets

[FLEET72]

Originally Posted by cdowns

lift engine up about enough to have a 2x4 uder the engine and you can do it on your back// it's a lot easier to use the felpro one piece gaskets

+1 ^

[Guy Dudebro]

Thanks? Do I need an engine hoist to do that? should I disconnect all hoses, etc? And where do I put the 2x4?

[cdowns]

you just unbolt the engine stands from the crossmember and lift the engine and put the 2x4 under the stands // you can either jack the engine up or use a engine crane to lift it up// no need to disconnect hoses or other accessories

[trac209]

I can and have done them without lifting engine but you have to have the crank in a certain position to get the pan out.

[WIDESIDE72]

"Snap ups" make the job immensely easier. You can buy some gasket sets that include them as well.

http://m.oreillyauto.com/mt/www.orei...0717&ppt=C0374

[SS Tim]

Warranty time was 1.8 hours for the job at the dealer and 2.8 is the recommended flat rate time to charge a customer.

[midniteblues]

if your doing this job layin on your back its gonna be a pita no matter what.
but the snap ups and a one peice pan gasket are very nice too work with.

the gasket can be replaced without removing the engine but you should/will at least lift it some too help with removel of the pan

[jocko]

if you jack it up, jacking directly on the oil pan can damage it and/or mess up the thread seal on the drain plug. Jack it somewhere else or spread the load as much as possible with a piece of wood a little larger than the sump between the pan and jack.

[SS Tim]

RTFM ... Read The Factory Manuals... download 'em here

[franken]

Have a look underneath for where the oil is coming from. The timing cover seal can wear a groove in the crank and a lot of oil can escape.

You may want to get a sleeve and timing cover set since if it is the seal, you need to lower the pan a bit to replace the seal and gaskets in the timing cover. Of course, this means you need to get the balancer off, and other fun stuff.

[hamjet]

Plus depending on how close your fan is to the shroud make sure when jacking it doesn't hit..

[Guy Dudebro]

Thanks everyone! Do I need to do anything with the transmission when I jack up the engine? Seems the connection is linear and if I raise the engine, the transmission and crankshaft would bend?

[franken]

I did this recently on a 2nd gen Camaro and
loosened the trans to crossmember bolts,
removed the dist. cap,
radiator,
water pump,
oil pan,
balancer,
and timing cover.

I found a groove in the crank, and sleeved it for a few bucks, cleaned, and painted much of what I pilled and reassembled.

No more oil leaking.

[mechanicalman]

Originally Posted by SS Tim

RTFM ... Read The Factory Manuals... download 'em here

Can this be done without the radiator fan hitting the fan shroud?

[mechanicalman]

Originally Posted by Guy Dudebro

I have some leaks somewhere in my oil pan and thought I'd replace the gasket to see if that fixed it. I have a 67 LWB c10. So it'll take some doing. Ideally, I would like to avoid removing the engine and unbolting from the transmission.
Can this be done? What are the best steps? Seems as if I can remove the crossmember and keep the truck braced it might work?
Any advice is appreciated.

OK any time you are after oil leaks always inspect from the top down, and repair leaks as you find them from the top down. You have valve covers/vents, intake manifold gaskets, oil sender or oil gauge pipe, and in very rare cases block plugs.

If you end up doing the pan, I'd replace the rear main seal while the pan is off and the plastic sleeve on the oil pump shaft. Most old mechanics have several in a drawer in their tool box or in a box full of old gaskets.

I agree with franken about checking first for a leak at the front timing cover and I agree with hamjet to watch your radiator fan blade for clearance to the shroud when you jack up your engine.

[Guy Dudebro]

I think I'll look at removing the radiator and fan shround altogether. I'm going to drain the coolant anyway. And the leak might indeed be coming from the timing cover. The engine is so dirty underneath its hard to tell but there is definite build up in that location.
I'll take pics and post this weekend. Thanks for everyone's help.

[Wrenchbender Ret]

I take it this is a V-8. The pan on the 6 cyl. is practically impossible to do this way.

[dfrank]

I removed and installed the pan on my 86 k10 without having to remove anything besides the pan bolts or jack the engine up. The snap ups are a must. I would recommend the fel pro 1 piece gasket. The fel pro gasket comes with the snap ups.

[Guy Dudebro]

Yes, its a V8. And thanks for the tip on the snap-ups. Headed to the auto parts store this weekend.

[jabborabbo]

Originally Posted by Wrenchbender Ret

I take it this is a V-8. The pan on the 6 cyl. is practically impossible to do this way.

Dadgummit!!! I've been following this thread with interest cuz I need to replace the pan gasket on my '67 L6.... I reckon I'll create a new thread asking for help when I get the time to replace that gasket....