lowering my truck

[Geos 72]

My truck's suspension is stock. I'm thinking of lowering the front 2" and 4" in the rear. Would I need lowering spindles and all that stuff or would I just need lowering springs and shorter shocks? Thank you.

[leftybass209]

You can get by with 2" springs in front. I'd like to stress that isn't the ideal way to do it, but people have done it for years. It creates stress on the shock mounting locations, and changes the geometry for alignment and tire wear. As for the rear, some people say just springs and shocks. Others say they needed a C notch, Adjustable track bar, and shock relocator brackets, or any combination there of. Hopefully some others can contribute more to the specifics of this.

[Geos 72]

Well, I would want to do it the right way but that sounds like a real expensive headache. I may rethink that and just leave it the way it is. I thank you sir.

[sduckworth13]

It really does add up in a hurry and then you realize the front end components are shot and haven't been changed for 25 yrs and the shocks all need replaced etc. It just snowballs, but it sure feels good to know that everything is done right.

[Geos 72]

Since these trucks are two inches higher in the rear I wonder if lowering it two inches would work just to make it level.

[frankslagoon]

Geos I did a cheap drop on my 63 but it's the same idea as my 70 I'm sure. I cut one coil off the front and used Jeep TJ rear coils. We got the front end to align but just barely. I did get shorter shocks for the front and rear. I heard somebody say they used the fronts on the rear and just bought new rear shocks. I think I will but drop spindles on next time but the truck drives just fine and didn't cost much. 2 in. front. 4 inch back

[Mr Handy]

I say go for it! I went with drop spindles because I was converting to disks.
check out ECE they are great to deal with and will answer all your questions.
look at both of their 2/4 kits. I recommend the premium kit with the shock relocators and adjustable panhardbar. but I also understand a budget.
http://www.earlyclassic.com/catalog....ry=Drop%20Kits

Before you do anything, take a look at your upper ball joints, if they are riveted in they are original and you want to replace them while you have the front end apart to swap the springs. if you don't have the cash to replace the ball joints, save up until you do.
remember you will have to get an alignment after the drop so budget that in as well.

[Geos 72]

I thank you gentleman for all your replies, advice and information, I really appreciate it. George

[OregonNed]

Mine has only 2" lowering blocks in the rear, but it is not level with the front - still a bit higher.

[leftybass209]

Originally Posted by OregonNed

Mine has only 2" lowering blocks in the rear, but it is not level with the front - still a bit higher.

This is because typically the front springs sag more than the rear springs as they age. It would be more prominent if a truck had rear heavy duty springs.

[502ms]

you need to update the equipment anyway....might as well do it. Especially if it is the original stuff from 40+ years ago. you will thank us later