New Project: 1974 2WD Shortbed

[Shady Chevy]

Thanks. I always have a lot of questions. LOL The one that I did have had to to with when I put my pinstripe paint on the edges of my graphics. I want then to be "under" the clear coat, not on top. But the way I understand it, the clear is required to activate or cure the basecoat. So I didn't think that I could go putting some pin stripe enamel directly onto the basecoat, without at least a few coats of clear first.

Maybe I am thinking wrong? Should I be using a basecoat paint for my 1/8 inch edge work between my graphics and the rest of the truck instead of some type of pinstripe enamel?

The way I have been planning is this:
1) self etch primer
2) body filler. shape with 36 grit
3) final sand of filler with 80 grit
4) high build primmer
5) sand 120 grit
6) "regular" primer
7) sand 400 grit
8) spray basecoat
9) tape off and spray all basecoat graphics
10) spray 3 coats clear
11) wet sand 800 grit
12) put all my 1/8 inch wide details with pinstripe enamel
13) spray 3 more coats clear
14) final wet sand of clear with 1000 and higher.

I have never done this before, so any advise is welcome. I am going to have to practice with an airbrush with my shadow detail work on my graphics, before I do the real thing. I will post pics of everything as I go.

Dave

[CodyWorks]

The best way I've found to use pinstriping enamel is to clear it, then wet sand w/ 1500-2000 grit. Once you've sanded it or "scuffed" it as we say, u can pin stripe over the scuffed clear.. then just re-clear the panel. I hope that's easy to follow lol

[Shady Chevy]

Yes. That is basically what I was thinking, but didn't know for sure how it would work. Thanks. It makes sense. Would you wet sand the clear again after the second time? Or are you typically just using polishing compound with a power buffer on the final coat of clear?

Also I wasn't sure if the pinstripe enamel paint was compatible with my base clear system. But, from what you said, that is how it can be done.

Thanks.
Dave

[CodyWorks]

I'd only wet sand it again on the pin striping because there's going to be a slight ridge in the clear from the stripe. There's not really any way around it. Make sure you use a good buffing compound, it's worth the money. Also, if you're going for show, u can always wet sand and buff the entire truck. Smooth as glass!

[Shady Chevy]

I am trying to build a show truck with this project. In the future I would like to build an all out show truck/car. But I was planning on taking the time to wet sand the whole thing on the final clear. Maybe I will change my mind once I start. LOL
Dave

[CodyWorks]

If you have a DA sander, they make 2000 grit for it that really cuts down on time.

[Shady Chevy]

yes I have a DA. Do I need a special pad other than just the standard? I will have to practice with this before I try it on something good. Assume I am wet sanding with water...like a small flow from a hose? I can't wait to try to experiment with this. Thanks.
Dave

[CodyWorks]

You do it dry with the DA.. you just have to be careful. They make a pad that attaches to your DA. It's soft foam and kindof lowers the pressure applied to the sand paper. It actually uses velcro sanding discs. IM attaching an eBay link so u know what I'm talking about.

http://m.ebay.com/itm/121627428133?nav=SEARCH

Definitely practice some though. It's very easy to burn through with these. Ask me how I know hahaha

[jott_06]

Like Cody said. You can wet sand it with the DA. Alot of companies make the paper and pads. From my experience the 3M hookit paper is the best but you will pay a little more for it. We have it at work. If you end up with a lot of dirt or texture in your final clear you can use some 1500 grit and a spray bottle with water to sand the clear smooth and then follow up with some 3000 grit and then buff and polish.

[jott_06]

just make sure to stay off of the edges and body lines with the DA when wet sanding. it will go through

[Shady Chevy]

There is one part that I don't understand right now. That has to do with the curing times for the clear coat. What I have been told so far is that I must apply clear over my base coat within 7 days of spraying the base coat. The first question is, If I am going to sand out the clear with something like 2000 grit, when do I want to do this? And when can't I do this. For some reason I thought I heard that I needed to do it within 24 hours of spraying the clear? Is that right or wrong? My gut feel is that I would want to wait at least 1 month to let it cure before hitting it with 2000 grit and buffing compound?

I am trying to figure out the sequence of how I am going to spray my graphics. I am trying to copy what I took pictures of from this street rod last summer. There are shadows that need to be airbrushed on around the edges of the graphics. It looks to me that the shadows were airbrushed on first. Then the shape taped off and sprayed. And like mentioned above in this post, a few layers of clear. Cut that, add the pinstripe enamel on the edges of the shapes, and clear everything again. Then the final 2000 grit sand and buff.

[Shady Chevy]

I know what I forgot to ask. Does anyone know if and where I can buy base coat in a smaller quantity than 1 quart???? I need very little for my airbrush work. And the more colors I have, the more I could do. I am looking for different shades of grey and black type colors. I assume I can blend and mix base coat to different shades? I have never tried to do this before.

[CodyWorks]

I've always tried to finish buffing with 2 weeks of spraying. Reason being is that the longer the clear cures, the harder it gets. That requires extra elbow grease when wet sanding and takes longer to buff.

[CodyWorks]

You can definitely mix base coats to achieve the color you want.

[Shady Chevy]

Thanks. That is good info. Give me a couple more weeks to get all my block sanding done with the primer and I will be ready to try some of this. Today I was working on filler still on the top of the tailgate. It is a reproduction tailgate, but when I welded the top on...along the top edge, it warped the top section of the tailgate above the body line. That is the last of the filler work. Then just blocking.

[jott_06]

Do you have any paint stores close by? If you are unsure try calling some body shops and ask if they can tell you who their local jobber is. Any paint store can mix you as much or as little paint as you need in any color you can think of.

[jott_06]

and as for sanding the clear. Most clear can be sanded the next day. Some of the clear we use in the shop on small jobs can be sanded and buffed in an hour. Crazy!

[Zach079xxx]

How did you go about making the arm rests? That looks amazing! What is inside the rest, where you grab the door from? Any other suggestions? Going to try this soon!
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[Shady Chevy]

I started getting my paint at my local NAPA. I have only bought 1 quart so far. I will ask them about smaller quanitites and see what they say. That sounds good about being able to sand the clear after only 1 day. I am thinking about taking an old hood and doing some practice on it first.

Arm rests: They are several layers of MDF glued together. Then I put some nice 1/4 plywood over that to create the "lip" at the top, where my 3/4 inch hardwood sets down in. Then I just put several layers of fiberglass mat over everything. THe hardwood on top gets attached with a few screws from the bottom.

Another off topic question: does anyone know how I can change the title of this thread? I thought I read at one time that I have a moderator change it??? After 3 years of working on it, I came up with a name for the truck. I guess it finaly started to take on its own personality...LOL

[Shady Chevy]

Arm Rests: The picture at the top of page 7 shows it best. In the background of the armrest I was working on is the one for the other side. Three pieces of 3/4 inch MDF glued together. I then plunged down in using my bridgeport to create the "pocket" for where you reach in to pull the door shut. They weren't hard to make. The fiberglass work takes all the time. Depends on how many layers you want to build up. You could cut the opening out with a jig saw on the top two layers before you glue them up if you didn't have access to a mill to plunge cut them.

[Shady Chevy]

I went back and rechecked what I wrote in January. I was wrong. I didn't use any fiberglass mat on the armrests. I just used the fiberglass resin directly over the wood. It worked well I thought. I am putting mat on the door panels. That is what I was thinking about.

[Zach079xxx]

Wow thanks. I really love the look! So is the inside where your fingers go, fiberglass like the outside? You're very skilled and your work shows.

Originally Posted by Shady Chevy

Arm Rests: The picture at the top of page 7 shows it best. In the background of the armrest I was working on is the one for the other side. Three pieces of 3/4 inch MDF glued together. I then plunged down in using my bridgeport to create the "pocket" for where you reach in to pull the door shut. They weren't hard to make. The fiberglass work takes all the time. Depends on how many layers you want to build up. You could cut the opening out with a jig saw on the top two layers before you glue them up if you didn't have access to a mill to plunge cut them.

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[Shady Chevy]

Thanks. I did put a coat of resin on the inside. I am going to spray the inside flat black. I haven't done that yet.

[Shady Chevy]

For my reference: Wild Strawberry paint code EL 1990 Ford Mustang $63.99/quart. This is what I am going to try and see if I like it.

[Shady Chevy]

Bought new inner fenders at spring Carlisle show and got them installed.....