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#26 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Washougal WA
Posts: 85
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Well now guys I don't know much about mechanics and i'm not sure how much power I should put in my truck and how to go about doing it. It's a 1973 chevy cheyenne. and i'm not sure I want to drop it without changing the transmission and get rid of the transfer case and replace the front axel. it is 4X4 obviously. And i'm not sure which way would look better?? Or run better. I want to get another truck though cause i'm seriously considering leaving this one the way it is and just give it a paint job and do some engine work to help it on it's way on recovery. Thanks guys for all the info though. I wouldn't mind being able to burn rubber though even in this truck.
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FAMILY MAN 77 CHEVY LB 4X4 ![]() 78 GMC LB 4X4 ![]() 77 GMC FLATBED 502 CADDY BB. ![]() 85 CHEVY BLAZER (wrecked) ![]() 86 CHEVY LB 2WD 77,000 ORIGINAL MILES ![]() 86 RX7 "SOLD" 88 RX7 "SOLD" 88 SUPRA "SCRAPPED" DIVORCE SUCKS 2003 HONDA CBR 600 F4I ![]() |
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#27 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Glendale Arizona
Posts: 747
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On holley's web site they recomend a 700 carb for a small block. Or a 750 for a "wild" small block. But I'm not trying to say anything about whos right or wrong I just read it. I dont know for sure which is better.
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"A true hotrodder wouldn't be content untill he had created a car so violent, so hairy, so totally sick that the very act of dropping the hammer would result in instant death. Anything less results in the need to go faster." - Tony DeFeo |
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#28 |
Garage Queen Material
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: USA
Posts: 4,129
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i'll probably be going with a 750 holley vacuum sec. carb for my engine.
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#29 |
Account Suspended
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Elkhart, IN
Posts: 6,400
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if its a 4x4 and you lower it you're definitely gonna get a lot of people thinking you're
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#30 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Atlantic City, NJ
Posts: 1,073
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"Silly rabbit, small blocks are for kids!"
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86 SWB 9.0 LITER T-400-OD 4.11 eaton-4/5 drop Best 1/4 12.51 @112mph no traction ![]() |
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#31 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Phoenix, Arizona
Posts: 4,703
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I have a 795cfm on my stock 350 and it runs pretty damn good.
Carb is a q-jet though
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* AVOID: LOPER'S PERMORANCE / LOPERSPEED.COM OF PHOENIX, AZ & COTTMAN TRANSMISSION * |
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#32 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Glendale Arizona
Posts: 747
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Hows is that with Arizona Emissions? Do you still pass with it?
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"A true hotrodder wouldn't be content untill he had created a car so violent, so hairy, so totally sick that the very act of dropping the hammer would result in instant death. Anything less results in the need to go faster." - Tony DeFeo Last edited by BowTieMan; 02-11-2004 at 03:14 PM. |
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#33 | |
driving is in my blood
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Mesa AZ
Posts: 5,720
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Quote:
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-78 c10 short/step: 388cid, M20, 5/5 drop, lots more. Playtoy and first vehicle. -98 c1500 x-cab: 5.7L, 17" rims, 5/6 drop, flowmaster, helper bags,NBS rear disk brakes. -02 Suburban 4x4: leveled front -CBR600F4i, CBR600RR, CBR1000RR, and standup skis DISCLAIMER: I cant spell for the life of me. |
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#34 |
driving is in my blood
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Mesa AZ
Posts: 5,720
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Ok people its pretty easy: the engine only needs Xamount of air [cfm] Having more avalible makes it easier to pull in the air [less resistance, more power] but it makes the air slow down which kills low RPM driviability. If you want to go big [like a 750cfm on a 350] then get a vacum secondary carb and you'll have no problems. My stock vortec 350 liked the 750 better then the 600 it has now. A mechincal carb is the one you really have to watch CFM's on because the carb will allow all CFM when you push the gas pedal, where as a vaccum secondary carb only allows the amount of air the engine wants.
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-78 c10 short/step: 388cid, M20, 5/5 drop, lots more. Playtoy and first vehicle. -98 c1500 x-cab: 5.7L, 17" rims, 5/6 drop, flowmaster, helper bags,NBS rear disk brakes. -02 Suburban 4x4: leveled front -CBR600F4i, CBR600RR, CBR1000RR, and standup skis DISCLAIMER: I cant spell for the life of me. |
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#35 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Washougal WA
Posts: 85
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With the 4X4 I would have gotten rid of the transfer case and replaced the front axel and gotten a new transmission for the purpose of it. But yes um I'm not understanding some most I do ,but some I don't if someone wouldn't mind explaining I would grately appreciate it.
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FAMILY MAN 77 CHEVY LB 4X4 ![]() 78 GMC LB 4X4 ![]() 77 GMC FLATBED 502 CADDY BB. ![]() 85 CHEVY BLAZER (wrecked) ![]() 86 CHEVY LB 2WD 77,000 ORIGINAL MILES ![]() 86 RX7 "SOLD" 88 RX7 "SOLD" 88 SUPRA "SCRAPPED" DIVORCE SUCKS 2003 HONDA CBR 600 F4I ![]() |
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#36 |
Account Suspended
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Elkhart, IN
Posts: 6,400
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what dont you understand? need to know what's getting by you before we can help you out on this one.
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#37 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Washougal WA
Posts: 85
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My main problem right now is how to get the studs off of my exhaust I tried heating it up and letting it soak for a day in wd-40 before I heated them up and tried to pull them. It didn't work. So now i'm left with paying 25 dollars to replace each stud that 6 total with a cost of 150 dollars to fix just these studs. I don't have a welder so I just try the weld a nut on idea and I don't have easy access to one. especially since I can't drive the truck in it's current state.
![]() So my questions are: Is there a cheaper place to replace my studs on the exhaust??? A good place or site to order body panels off of??? What's going on with the site decals I still want one if possible???
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FAMILY MAN 77 CHEVY LB 4X4 ![]() 78 GMC LB 4X4 ![]() 77 GMC FLATBED 502 CADDY BB. ![]() 85 CHEVY BLAZER (wrecked) ![]() 86 CHEVY LB 2WD 77,000 ORIGINAL MILES ![]() 86 RX7 "SOLD" 88 RX7 "SOLD" 88 SUPRA "SCRAPPED" DIVORCE SUCKS 2003 HONDA CBR 600 F4I ![]() |
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