72 K30 Build

[7dee2]

Here are some pics of the lower flange holes that have gotten filled so far.

[7dee2]

After grinding flush bolted on the hangers and drilled the remaining 3/8” pilots in the lower flange.

[7dee2]

Made the final fit adjustments and drilled to 7/16” re-bolting one at a time. All the spring hangers have been drilled on the frame except for the front shackle frame brackets those were drilled over using a drill press. Really need to fix the spring bushings!

[DLTruck1973]

Originally Posted by 7dee2

Made the final fit adjustments and drilled to 7/16” re-bolting one at a time. All the spring hangers have been drilled on the frame except for the front shackle frame brackets those were drilled over using a drill press. Really need to fix the spring bushings!

Hardware clerk:
"Yes sir, how may I help you?"

Brett:
"I'll take about a couple thousand 7/16 grade 8 bolts, nuts and washers please"

Looking good there Brett. Keep up the good work. Looks like a roller soon

Take care,
Thomas

[7dee2]

Originally Posted by DLTruck1973

Hardware clerk:
"Yes sir, how may I help you?"

Brett:
"I'll take about a couple thousand 7/16 grade 8 bolts, nuts and washers please"

Looking good there Brett. Keep up the good work. Looks like a roller soon

Take care,
Thomas

Ha, you got that right and thanks Thomas!

We’re pretty lucky in that I’ve got a nut a bolt supplier just a few miles away that will sell to me. All this shiny new hardware ran me less than $10 for mockup compared to the big box store specialty bins with the little packages and the 400-500% markup.

Working the rear hangers, pretty sure this is the setup on the rear position but want to see it flipped over with springs and axle before punching all the holes.

[mx289]

Looking good.

[7dee2]

Thanks Tom.

And we have some rear springs!

[7dee2]

Flipped over with the rear axle in place ain’t that a looker? Ha!

[JJorgensen52]

Originally Posted by 7dee2

Flipped over with the rear axle in place ain’t that a looker? Ha!

That first photo brings back terrible memories of trying to work on the brake lines around those spring packs

Looking good, liking the stance!

[7dee2]

Thanks Jim, It does look pretty dang tight in there and I'm sure the will be flying when that day comes.

Now it’s the front axles turn and it is finally a roller! Currently it sits almost level with no weight on the front end with an extra inch or so from the dollies. Last 2 pics you can see the frame rails kinda line up with the lines in that scrap paneling.

[7dee2]

Decided to move forward with the generation correct engine cross member first instead of the K35 stuff. Pretty sure it’ll do the job and I’ve got the correct oil pan to make it work. Not 100% sure on the front sway bar mount and the trans mount we will see what fits the best.

[JJorgensen52]

Originally Posted by 7dee2

Decided to move forward with the generation correct engine cross member first instead of the K35 stuff. Pretty sure it’ll do the job and I’ve got the correct oil pan to make it work. Not 100% sure on the front sway bar mount and the trans mount we will see what fits the best.

As far as I know, the only difference between the 10-20-30 series engine crossmembers is the height to match the different frames - if it fits, I'd say run it! Installing original style power steering brackets with the later cross members is difficult at best.

[Dieselwrencher]

Nice work on the frame! It's really coming along nicely!

[DWilbur]

Looking good keep up the work. I think it took me about a year to get it back on the wheels.

[7dee2]

Originally Posted by JJorgensen52

As far as I know, the only difference between the 10-20-30 series engine crossmembers is the height to match the different frames - if it fits, I'd say run it! Installing original style power steering brackets with the later cross members is difficult at best.

Power steering pump fitment did cross my mind from your build Jim. Running this style K20 cross member does simplify things. The only con for me is the motor mount style. IMO the clam shell motor mount is a far better design but I’m hoping with better heavy duty poly mounts that we won’t have any lifting problems later.

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

Nice work on the frame! It's really coming along nicely!

Originally Posted by DWilbur

Looking good keep up the work. I think it took me about a year to get it back on the wheels.

Thanks you guys!

So I borrowed an early style motor mount from a friend who only had one. A block of wood was subbed for the other side this is some high tech stuff here! With the K35 trans mount just set inside the frame rails and no TC mounts we got pretty close to carb level just messing around. Left exhaust manifold is touching the cross member but I think the new poly mounts are thicker.

[JJorgensen52]

Originally Posted by 7dee2

Power steering pump fitment did cross my mind from your build Jim. Running this style K20 cross member does simplify things. The only con for me is the motor mount style. IMO the clam shell motor mount is a far better design but I’m hoping with better heavy duty poly mounts that we won’t have any lifting problems later.

The poly mounts are built with travel limiters in them, so they don't have the same lift/breakage issue as the old style ones. That's a good call! I actually hate the clamshells, the short/wide style is my preference when I can use them.

Do you have SBC or BBC motor mount stands?

[Dieselwrencher]

If the poly mount isn't tall enough, you could always shim the engine up if you had to to clear the cross member.

[7dee2]

Originally Posted by JJorgensen52

The poly mounts are built with travel limiters in them, so they don't have the same lift/breakage issue as the old style ones. That's a good call! I actually hate the clamshells, the short/wide style is my preference when I can use them.

Do you have SBC or BBC motor mount stands?

That's what I keep hearing on these newer design early style mounts so they should be OK for what we'll need.

Both the 73 K5 and the 84 K35 stands we have are for a small block, the motor mount take 3 bolts to mount to the stands not 4 like the big block version. I'm thinking ours are the short/wide you describe and have noticed that our later K35 version does seem to be a little heavier duty with extra mounting provisions to the frame and cross member but are still pretty much the same overall dimensions.

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

If the poly mount isn't tall enough, you could always shim the engine up if you had to to clear the cross member.

Good suggestion DW! I’ve had to use spacers before and that works really well when you just need a little more room/height, pretty sure that GM did the same on some applications.


While waiting for the new motor mounts to show up we’ll get the crossmember mounted and start to figure out how we will mount the sway bar. Really want to run the original front cross member if possible and these later sway mounts are not helping that goal as much as I’d like. So, so close but no cigar!

[JJorgensen52]

Originally Posted by 7dee2

While waiting for the new motor mounts to show up we’ll get the crossmember mounted and start to figure out how we will mount the sway bar. Really want to run the original front cross member if possible and these later sway mounts are not helping that goal as much as I’d like. So, so close but no cigar!

You know I was never really happy with the way I got that to fit on my truck. What about something like was done here?
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=140216
Food for thought

[7dee2]

Great minds do think alike Jim, I saw that thread and thought wow! Here’s another one closer to what we'll end up with http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php?p=4935792 . Forum member snj8198 did a great job so all credit for this design goes to him. We lucked into some scrap 2x4 tubing a buddy had laying around and it was just perfect.

[JJorgensen52]

Originally Posted by 7dee2

Great minds do think alike Jim, I saw that thread and thought wow! Here’s another one closer to what we'll end up with http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php?p=4935792 . Forum member snj8198 did a great job so all credit for this design goes to him. We lucked into some scrap 2x4 tubing a buddy had laying around and it was just perfect.

Hey, I've got some of that 2x4 tubing laying around ... maybe I should get a wild hair and put some sway bar mounts on my K10???



Nice progress!

[DWilbur]

That is a good idea for mounting the sway bar. I just might have to do something like that.

[Dieselwrencher]

That is a great idea. I may have to alter the tube a lot due to my front cross members being modified for inline 6's.

[7dee2]

Originally Posted by JJorgensen52

Hey, I've got some of that 2x4 tubing laying around ... maybe I should get a wild hair and put some sway bar mounts on my K10???



Nice progress!

It's a pretty easy setup go for it! Thanks, but your progress on the Red Herring is outstanding!

Originally Posted by DWilbur

That is a good idea for mounting the sway bar. I just might have to do something like that.

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

That is a great idea. I may have to alter the tube a lot due to my front cross members being modified for inline 6's.

That's what I thought when I saw the thread. Ha, easy peasy you know.

[7dee2]

Here's another reason I wanted to stick with the original front cross member. I’ll tell you what these blazer steering box supports don’t fit the 133” or 157” frames real great. But with a little trimming it’s going to work out just fine, still need to add an upper shim to complete the fitting but you get the idea.