Headers & A Drop

[LuvNLife]

Folks - need some advice.

I ordered Hedman shorty headers, part number 69016, since my truck is dropped, and these seemed to be the best bet for not dragging a flange on the ground. I went by the shop putting my new engine in today; the engine and trans are both bolted in, all new motor mounts, etc. The tech was having a hard time routing my starter wires so they wouldn't get melted, and wanted my input before he made some changes.

Long and short (no pun intended) on the headers is, the fitment is lousy. On the drivers' side, i'd have to change to shortly plugs, and even then the wires will be darned close. On the passenger side, I'd have to do shorty plugs as well, and the collector tube lays right against the transmission "ear", and the flange for mounting the collector is pinned in; I have no idea if you could even run all 3 bolts up into it. To say the least, with what I paid for these, I'm ticked.

Last square I did, I used Hooker Super Comps, and they fit incredibly well - no issues with plugs or interference anywhere, but they were full length. So, as you can see in the picture below, that's how much my truck is dropped. For those of you that have been there, done that, do you think this drop would be OK to run full lengths with? Thought and opinions are more than welcome...

Jerry

[KQQL IT]

If $ isn't an issue. Dougs D-310 ceramic
Fit great, don't hang below the rail. They work better with a double hump trans x member.

Fit my angle plug darts with out any special plugs and no special tools to change plugs.

Or the Patriot clipster for an SBC work but 5/16 flanges can leak vs a 3/8 flange

[LuvNLife]

Originally Posted by KQQL IT

If $ isn't an issue. Dougs D-310 ceramic
Fit great, don't hang below the rail. They work better with a double hump trans x member.

Fit my angle plug darts with out any special plugs and no special tools to change plugs.

Or the Patriot clipster for an SBC work but 5/16 flanges can leak vs a 3/8 flange

I'd looked at the Dougs, but kind of choked on the $640 price tag. As most of you know,when you're doing an engine swap, costs have a bad habit of rising quickly, mostly from all the small parts.

Jerry

[KQQL IT]

I know. But when they fall into place with out any drama it was worth it.

[KQQL IT]

These will work or did on my 73.
http://m.summitracing.com/parts/pte-h8021-1

[bbbc10]

i have these on my 84 an they fit great

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pte-h8021/overview/

[1970pelle]

I have the same basic headers less the coating. I have no issue's. I have how ever changed starters to a newer style Tahoe starter. Which made a major difference and I changed the way my wiring harness runs from across the firewall. And now I have it running along the right (passenger side) frame rail toward the front of the engine. So I can keep as little wiring from on top of the engine and intake manifold area. Looks much cleaner.

I would check the tech doing your repairs. I know a lot of techs working flat rate don't like messing with headers or anything not OEM.


Ken

[KQQL IT]

Originally Posted by bbbc10

i have these on my 84 an they fit great

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pte-h8021/overview/

Same ones as posted I think, just coated

[bbbc10]

yup same ones I just checked

[Super_Dave]

I used Hedman Ceramic Coated Shorty's on my '74. I also used the smaller high torque starter. Everything fit well, though it was a bit tight on the passenger side for one bolt. Don't use the factory Hedman bolts unless you want them to rust and corrode within a few weeks.

Also, toss the Hedman gaskets and get a set of Remflex Gaskets. A lot of racers use them. They are much thicker, compress 50% and you don't have to go back and re-torque the bolts and leaks are history. Well worth the money, especially if you don't want blow-outs and then replace your gaskets while your exhaust is hooked up... I have photos of the Hedman Headers and crusty bolts toward the bottom of page 2 and blown exhaust gaskets toward the bottom of page 3, in my slow-build signature link.

[77c10]

Don't have any input on the headers but I'm digging your truck! Very nice, I love that color.

[KQQL IT]

Originally Posted by 77c10

Don't have any input on the headers but I'm digging your truck! Very nice, I love that color.

Agreed,
although I'm seeing an Ivory roof cap.

Good luck with the headers.

[MalibuSSwagon]

I had hooker super comps on my C10, I wouldn't worry about dragging flanges at that height.

[CoggedBelt75]

I think you would be fine with full length. I have hooker comps on mine also. Just the plain steel ones. Over 14 years old and holding up great. I've only repainted them twice with VHT aluminum. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ho...olet/model/c10. I sit a bit low in the front....crossmember to ground 3 3/4", highest point of lower A-arm is 2 3/4", lowest point of A-arm is 2 3/8". I can make it up and down our bumpy, dippy roads just fine. I have scraped a few times but nothing major. I just take certain places at more of an angle now.




I run a mini starter now but the full size wasn't a problem. No problem with the plug wires. I do use sleeves to help prolong the life of the wires from the temps they endure. I use a straight boot on the #5 wire.

[Tom]

No reason not to run longtubes, and wire burning is something man has struggled with when using headers for decades. Part of the fun, although I guess its not much fun when you aren't doing the work yourself.

[LuvNLife]

Originally Posted by 77c10

Don't have any input on the headers but I'm digging your truck! Very nice, I love that color.

Thanks! You may get to see it up close and personal in the not-too-distant future. When my wife retires in just over a year, we're planning to move to Crossville, TN - not exactly next door to you, but not far away. I've already started checking out the car/truck scene down that way...

Jerry

[LuvNLife]

Originally Posted by 1970pelle

I have the same basic headers less the coating. I have no issue's. I have how ever changed starters to a newer style Tahoe starter. Which made a major difference and I changed the way my wiring harness runs from across the firewall. And now I have it running along the right (passenger side) frame rail toward the front of the engine. So I can keep as little wiring from on top of the engine and intake manifold area. Looks much cleaner.

I would check the tech doing your repairs. I know a lot of techs working flat rate don't like messing with headers or anything not OEM.


Ken

I did go with the Tahoe starter; I read quite a few guys on here were using it - less than $100 shipped from Rock Auto, so a great deal. The tech took the stock metal tube the wires run through, removed the bracket on it, turned it, and brazed it back on, so now they're up tight, as far away from the headers as they can get. The shop were the truck is does transmissions, but Dad has a long history of building some wicked fast street cars, and the son (who's wrenching on mine) does dirt track cars and boats, so between them, they've got some really amazing skills. Even my guaranteed to fit GM dipstick tube had to have some surgery done, since the bracket points toward absolutely nothing.

Jerry

[LuvNLife]

Originally Posted by CoggedBelt75

I think you would be fine with full length. I have hooker comps on mine also. Just the plain steel ones. Over 14 years old and holding up great. I've only repainted them twice with VHT aluminum. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ho...olet/model/c10. I sit a bit low in the front....crossmember to ground 3 3/4", highest point of lower A-arm is 2 3/4", lowest point of A-arm is 2 3/8". I can make it up and down our bumpy, dippy roads just fine. I have scraped a few times but nothing major. I just take certain places at more of an angle now.




I run a mini starter now but the full size wasn't a problem. No problem with the plug wires. I do use sleeves to help prolong the life of the wires from the temps they endure. I use a straight boot on the #5 wire.

Dang - yours is dropped quite a bit more than mine, that's for sure!

I am going to go with full length. I'll post the story below...

Jerry

[LuvNLife]

OK - busy day.

I went back over to look at everything early this morning; I try never to make decisions when I'm ticked off, so it was good to walk away from it last night.

The only way a plug wire would ever go on cylinder 3 would be to pull the plug, attached the wire, then screw it back in. Even that wouldn't work, due to the sharp angle of the connector pushed against the header tube. same with number 6 cylinder on the other side. I checked out the Accel shorty plugs, but they would only buy me, at most, about 1/2" more clearance, which still has the connector pushed against the header tube. After 3 of us stared at the engine for a few minutes (like staring at it would change things - LOL), the headers came off and got re-boxed.

You can't simply return something to Summit once it's been bolted on, got a couple of scratches, etc., so I had to call about a return. Got bumped up the line to a senior customer service tech within less than a minute, and fortunately she's a gear head. We went over every spec of the engine, trans and accessories, and she was totally stumped on why there was a problem. She asked me to hold, and conference-called in a senior tech from Hedman, and we went through all of it, and even he was stumped. He could only guess something went very wrong with one of their jigs during assembly, or maybe human error.

So, where we ended up was Hedman recommended going long tube, and using their part number 69096. The Summit rep and I took it from there. She generated the order, gave me a slight price break, gave me 2nd Day Air shipping free, is sending a UPS call tag for the shorties, and I'll get a credit for the cost difference (long tubes are less than shorties). Not a bad resolution. My first choice for long tubes may not have been Hedman, but we'll get 'em on there, and see how they line up. I went over the pictures of them closely, and it looks like plug access sure won't be a problem.

Thanks to all of you for your input...

Jerry

[Jake Wade]

Love your truck, awesome color. Its badass!

[Jake Wade]

What size wheels/tires front and rear?

[LuvNLife]

Originally Posted by Jake Wade

What size wheels/tires front and rear?

Thanks for the compliment; I knew I wanted something different, and like how easy it is to keep up a light colored vehicle. When I saw this color on a 2013 Bentley, it just really grabbed my attention so I went for it.

The wheels are the newer American Racing PVD chrome, which is actually a clear coat, not chrome plating; piece of cake to maintain. The front's are 18X7's with 3.75" backspacing, and the rears are 20X8's, with 4.5" backspacing and 1.5" spacers to pull them almost even with the wheel opening.

Jerry

[Jake Wade]

Where did you get the 1.5 spacers?

[LuvNLife]

Originally Posted by Jake Wade

Where did you get the 1.5 spacers?

Had to dig a bit, but here it is:

ProWheelAdapters.com

Vehicle Bolt Pattern - 5x127 ( 5x5 ) - Wheel Spacers - (PAIR)
Thickness 1.5" Thick - 1/2" Studs
$87.54 shipped, with a 15% discount for using their website.

They're really nice quality pieces in my opinion...

Jerry

[Zach079xxx]

Where did you get those plug sleeves and the metal that is routed by the valve covers? Looks great and the function is pretty sweet!

Originally Posted by CoggedBelt75

I think you would be fine with full length. I have hooker comps on mine also. Just the plain steel ones. Over 14 years old and holding up great. I've only repainted them twice with VHT aluminum. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ho...olet/model/c10. I sit a bit low in the front....crossmember to ground 3 3/4", highest point of lower A-arm is 2 3/4", lowest point of A-arm is 2 3/8". I can make it up and down our bumpy, dippy roads just fine. I have scraped a few times but nothing major. I just take certain places at more of an angle now.




I run a mini starter now but the full size wasn't a problem. No problem with the plug wires. I do use sleeves to help prolong the life of the wires from the temps they endure. I use a straight boot on the #5 wire.