Why - only one caliper works

[Shugalou]

Thanks for the vid mr olds - funny enough I have already watched it (along with a bunch others)

Update:

I took a test light to the pin and sure as sh-t the light came on.

So looks like I need to re center it - these are the steps

Use a test light by attaching a clip to a positive contact on the vehicle and touch the point of the tester to the electrical connection of the combination valve. If the the light does not come on, the valve system is operating correctly and no further testing is required.

2.If the light does come on, this indicates that the pressure differential valve is stuck in the front or rear position.

3.Bleed the brake system to determine if the front or rear lines are blocked off. Set up one front wheel and one rear wheel for bleeding at the same time. Crack both bleeder screws and gently pump the pedal a few times.

4.The blocked side will trickle fluid out when the bleeder screw is cracked and the pedal pressed. An unblocked line will squirt fluid out the bleeder.

5.The lines that are clear must be left open and the blocked lines should have the bleeder screws tight to cause pressure to build up on that side. Be sure to use the standard bleeding procedures to prevent air from entering the system.

6.Slowly press the pedal with steady pressure a number of times until the light goes out; this will center the differential valve. You may also hear a pop come from the proportioning valve. This is the metering valve returning to its equalized position. When the light goes out, close the bleeder screw. (See fig. below)

A little pissed but I think I'm making progress...

Thanks for the help guys

[Shugalou]

what baffles me though is that I was getting fluid to all four corners and as soon as the bleeders are opened the fluid would begin to flow.

[Shugalou]

I hopped in the truck stepped on the brake fast a couple times and it looks like it reset as the test light didn't come on.

I re-bled all corners and still the same result...gotta pump up to get fronts but nothing rear.

I have been noticing since I've started that when I crack a bleeder valve I hear a dripping sound at the master cylinder almost like a drop hitting an empty paint can. At first I thought it was normal but now I wonder if this is an air lock...or something faulty with the master.

[v30crewcab]

sounds like you have a blockage in the line to the left front. either solid gook in the metal line, or a bad flex line. either way you need to take that line loose from the prop valve and blow thru it with air both ways to determine whats up.

[hatzie]

Pressure bleeder should push any bubble out of the MC with the pedal all the way up.

[Shugalou]

Hatzie,

That's what I'm hoping - I've been calling around to see it anyone around me sells one...it's like a unicorn man, only the mighty vac...might have to and build one myself.

[hatzie]

I couldn't find anyone that admitted to selling one reasonably priced in The Great White North.
Toronto isn't that far from the Buffalo area but Canada customs may whack you for more than the Amazon.ca price on the way back...

It literally takes less than 1/2 hour to assemble after shopping for the parts. The chunk of HDPE cutting board the guy used as a MC cap in the second video was a great idea. The Motive 1115 MC cover is $85 CDN on Amazon.ca.
Here's the tail end of a thread on Freds' TDI Club Board in the Ontario specific forum... http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread...=147133&page=2

I usually clamp the cover down using C clamps or Irwin C-Clamp Vise grips.

[swissarmychainsaw]

Canada: Power Bleeder
Amazon.ca: power bleeder
US:
Amazon.com: power bleeder

[Shugalou]

Swiss thanks for the links but they didn't go to the product page. I did check amazon.ca and they were 160 so probably close to 200 with tax and shipping.

Hatzie I am planning to build one and I'm trying to find some time today to start buying the parts. After watching the vids it does look very straightforward and I can't believe how much they charge for the Motive product when you build one at a fraction of the price.

I'll keep you guy posted.

[Shugalou]

Small update - I have built the pressure bleeder, unfortunately the seal wasn't good enough on the master and it pissed fluid all out. I'll attempt to craft a better gasket out of an old soccer ball today and hopefully report back better results.

[hatzie]

I use a pair of Irwin Vise Grip Clamps from my welding toolbox to hold the cover in place rather than the crazy chains from Motive or bent all-thread. It's fussy to get the cover on right. I usually pressurize the cover to 15 or 20psi with an empty sprayer to test the fit.

[Shugalou]

I picked up a couple big C clamps which look like they should work. Just need to get a thicker gasket in there and see if it will hold pressure...It held for a couple of seconds at 5 then the gasket must have let go.

I'll get it soon

[hatzie]

[Shugalou]

Thanks Hatzie, I'll have to print that one out and put it in the garage

I have a similar quote on my office wall but this picture is more entertaining.

[Shugalou]

Another small update. I used the homemade gasket of the inner tube of a soccer ball by cutting strips and layering them ontop of each other.

Still didn't get a perfect seal but it held the pressure but dripped a bit. I was able to get a bubble out of the front driver caliper. The fronts now squeeze tight without pump up...so yeah progress.

Onto the rears - I tightened the ebrake cable from beneath until I couldn't turn the wheels then backed off a bit. No pedal feel still - I checked all fittings and noticed the fitting on the prop valve to the rear had a touch of fluid. I bought a fitting from NAPA that was a touch loose in the threads but when torqued down fit well. I think this fitting needs to be replaced...so I will be putting another fitting on the rear line (gonna try with it still attached).

I will be contacting CPP to find out the exact size of that fitting.

Getting closer to the diamonds

[nonstop]

Originally Posted by Shugalou

Onto the rears - I tightened the ebrake cable from beneath until I couldn't turn the wheels then backed off a bit. No pedal feel still - I checked all fittings and noticed the fitting on the prop valve to the rear had a touch of fluid. I bought a fitting from NAPA that was a touch loose in the threads but when torqued down fit well. I think this fitting needs to be replaced...so I will be putting another fitting on the rear line (gonna try with it still attached).

I will be contacting CPP to find out the exact size of that fitting.

Getting closer to the diamonds

That is how we found our bad valve - just a couple drips out of it...

[Shugalou]

nonstop can you elaborate. At this point for me - I'm not ruling anything out.

But for my case, I think the fitting might not be creating a perfect seal so it is wet - not puddling around the threads.

Thanks

[enaberif]

I just recently went through a battle with my truck and brakes.

In the process I replaced the booster, master cylinder, 4 soft lines, 2 hard lines and the prop valve.

What I discovered after doing all of this was the some of the old fittings and flares did not seat right and caused leaks. I had to reflare the hard lines to the rear brakes as well as the rear fitting and flare at the master cylinder.

So you have to remember you are trying to use old with new and flares and fittings may not work the same. Also if you don't have any get are wrenches as they will help with snuggling down the fittings without stripping the nut.

In the new year I will be moving my prop valve up to the master cylinder and redoing a few more lines.

TLR you may need to replace fittings and redo some flares.

[nonstop]

Ours was a somewhat unpredictable pedal. Sometimes good, sometimes soft. A search showed CPP had a bad run of valves. If you search here, there are a lot of complaints. Here is one thread though that might be similar to your situation:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=565809

[Shugalou]

Thanks guys,

The lines and fittings are all new.

I'll check out the CPP article and see what they are saying.

Thanks again for the help/advice

[Shugalou]

Some more progress.

I go to the store where I bought the CPP prop valve tell the guy the issue that threads are a bit loose and the fitting is wet. He digs one up give it to me free of charge (I'm liking this shop more and more). Then he explains that this fitting is touch loose also but when torqued down it will seat against the flare no probs - has me wondering if I can torque mine down more. I come home put the flare wrench and can't budge (you know the deal, torque it wrench slips off and bang the knuckles) so I look around for a regular wrench and eventually find it inside the cab - wouldn't you know I can turn it almost another half turn...So great news.

Then I find my old master cylinder that I thought I threw out, take the gasket out and put it on my cutting board topper and voila - holding pressure with no leaks.

I'll be doing another bleed tonight

[Shugalou]

[Shugalou]

So after an hour and a half it has lost some pressure, I'll be checking fittings for wetness.

[Shugalou]

Did another bleed got not more bubbles. Figured for insurance I'll put another jug of fluid through the lines...halfway through a load of bubbles came out of the rear. Thank god for this pressure bleeder.

The fronts lock up now, and I can feel the rears grabbing a small amount.

I put it in reverse on stands and I got a loud clicking out of the right rear. I'll be taking the drum off and adjusting in a bit - I'll see if this works before replacing the drums...hoping that it's not the bearings.

So close now!

[hatzie]

I've actually been flushing new fluid through the brakes on my cars every 2-3 years or so after I built mine. It's not a nasty chore anymore.

The springs etc still attached where they should be inside the RR drum?