Are there built in trans coolers in the radiator?

[68c10owner]

Originally Posted by davepl

Mine was purple. Sorry, that's all I remember but I bet it's a brand trademark for someone.

They make "loose" converters, holeshot converters, and tight converters... unless that's all just marketing.

My problem was that to get it to creep at all took a fair flash of the the throttle. Going up an incline meant you basically had to run the engine up to stall speed (so going up a ramp, you're at 3000rpm creeping).

Now it sounds like you've got a lot of cam - remember I am doing a mostly stock build. If you're building a street-strip truck and have a big cam then you're on a different path and nothing wrong with a loose converter. In fact you likely NEED one for a big cam.

A 3000 stall converter makes for a pretty spectacular launch if you can get it to hook up though! I had mine in a 4200lb car with a ZZ502 and a properly set up suspension and it launched straight with no wheelspin every time. Fun stuff.

On the street they can get annoying. But that's the price of going fast!

Don't go back to stock stall speed if you do have a big cam without considering the cam. I don't know what a "big" cam is, but if its more than maybe 224 duration @ 0.50? Somewhere around there you need a converter so it doesn't stall out in drive.

Big cam needs big stall speed. Big stall speed can be annoying. So big cams can be annoying. But they make top end power. No free lunch!

What you describe here are characteristics of a loose converter. It's not just marketing. It's the difference between a cheap converter and high end custom built converter.

[davepl]

FWIW I used the B&M Supercooler that 68C10 talks about but there's NO rubber in my system. Everything is hand-bent and hydraulically flared stainless tubing.

That might be overkill, but I had some bad experiences as a youth with rubber transmission lines exploding (don't use fuel line, it's not the same, honest).

[davepl]

Originally Posted by 68c10owner

What you describe here are characteristics of a loose converter. It's not just marketing. It's the difference between a cheap converter and high end custom built converter.

Mine is a Vigilante, which I didn't think of as a "low end" converter. Wasn't cheap, that's for sure. But it slips a lot on any incline. Have you heard much on them and how they are relative to other brands he might experience?

[68c10owner]

Originally Posted by davepl

FWIW I used the B&M Supercooler that 68C10 talks about but there's NO rubber in my system. Everything is hand-bent and hydraulically flared stainless tubing.

That might be overkill, but I had some bad experiences as a youth with rubber transmission lines exploding (don't use fuel line, it's not the same, honest).

This is correct. You need high pressure line. Hard line or braided line is the best but small sections of rubber line would be ok.

[68c10owner]

Originally Posted by davepl

Mine is a Vigilante, which I didn't think of as a "low end" converter. Wasn't cheap, that's for sure. But it slips a lot on any incline. Have you heard much on them and how they are relative to other brands he might experience?

I've heard of them but don't know anyone who has used one. The cheaper $300-400 converters tend to slip more but if you have ATI or Coan custom build you one to your exact set up they aren't as bad. I had a older Darrel Young 10" converter that was a little loose with 3.08's but wasn't undriveable. You get use to it. Next converter I need with be a ATI most likely but I got out of racing and hot rods a while ago so don't think I'd need one anytime soon.

[davepl]

Pretty sure mine is a smaller 8" or 9" which might make a difference too.

[68c10owner]

Originally Posted by davepl

Pretty sure mine is a smaller 8" or 9" which might make a difference too.

The smaller converters tend to be for higher stall speeds which can effect how they drive. I mean, you can only make it so tight and still do the job it was designed for. Most of these are designed for race only so trying to run a drag race converter on the tree is going to be different than a stock or street/strip converter. There is more than just the stall that effects how it behaves. Gear ratio, tire size, weight of the vehicle, engine torque output, even the brakes will change how a converter works. They are not a one size fits all but for the OP'S application there is no reason he can't get a 2800-3000 stall that is tight enough that it won't cause any problems for street driving.

[Mrturner1]

Originally Posted by 68c10owner

The smaller converters tend to be for higher stall speeds which can effect how they drive. I mean, you can only make it so tight and still do the job it was designed for. Most of these are designed for race only so trying to run a drag race converter on the tree is going to be different than a stock or street/strip converter. There is more than just the stall that effects how it behaves. Gear ratio, tire size, weight of the vehicle, engine torque output, even the brakes will change how a converter works. They are not a one size fits all but for the OP'S application there is no reason he can't get a 2800-3000 stall that is tight enough that it won't cause any problems for street driving.

Then I can quit two footing the brake pedal at long red lights haha