1976 Square "Simple Green"

[swampbog]

Originally Posted by ray1970

Ray here.
When I was having the battery problem was the only time my screen went BLANK.....every time I tried to start it..
Low voltage.....
has never happened again.

Ray.

Ray,
Blank as in black or white?

[RodsGreen10]

Originally Posted by swampbog

They don't have this grounding thorough the throttle body itself do they?
I imagine you have a none conductive gasket between the body and the intake, so the only ground it gets is through the "carb to intake" bolts. Which is basically electrically hampered by the powder coating they have on the throttle body.?.

Yep that's how it grounds. Felpro gaskets and a carb space and a throttle bracket also lol. They did tell me to run a ground from the carb stud direct to the battery yesterday. I know the carb studs are grounding verified that when I did the HEI module upgrade. Cause I grounded it to the carb studs.

[RodsGreen10]

Originally Posted by ray1970

Ray here.
When I was having the battery problem was the only time my screen went BLANK.....every time I tried to start it..
Low voltage.....
has never happened again.

Ray.

Ok. Well I know the battery is good. And like I said even with a jumper on it.

[swampbog]

Originally Posted by RodsGreen10

Yep that's how it grounds.

Well, that's a ****ty ground.
Maybe (and this is a stretch) when it's cold the only areas that are making good "ground" have shrunk due to the cold and when it gets around 100 degrees it warms up and grows and makes contact (thermal dynamics).
Everything moves when it comes to temperature, granted it may be only .001 but even a .001 can make a difference.
You edited your post as I was typing
The studs do have a good ground but the studs are threaded in to the intake. The throttle body coating could possibly not make electrical contact to the studs or not make a good enough one for the ECU.
Again it is a stretch but it could be an issue.

[ray1970]

Ray here.

Went gray kind of.....And I hade my best bake your batty charger on it.
and it spun over good..

The way I finally saw it was if my battery was any good I would not need a charger..
for more than a short time....

Ray.

[swampbog]

I looked at some pics of the FiTech body and I do see none coated areas at the base where the studs go, or are they coted but in a clear only?
Is there only one area that is "non coated"? The few pics I saw it looks like only one area is bare.

[RodsGreen10]

Originally Posted by swampbog

I looked at some pics of the FiTech body and I do see none coated areas at the base where the studs go, or are they coted but in a clear only?
Is there only one area that is "non coated"? The few pics I saw it looks like only one area is bare.

Yep how mine is only 1 bare area. It has 2 but how mine bolts in it is only contacting 1 bare spot. I believe that may be why they said run a ground from the carb stud.

[swampbog]

I looked at your video again, (it's one of the videos that popped up on a search) and I think I found a issue.
It's that damn clear air cleaner cover you have. The FiTech unit can see that it's crappy outside and it doesn't want to get out of bed.
https://youtu.be/rfauqfN8m7c?t=18s

[swampbog]

Originally Posted by RodsGreen10

Yep how mine is only 1 bare area. I believe that may be why they said run a ground from the carb stud.

Gotta ask.
Is that the one you put the ground to and made sure it electrically contacts the bare area?

[swampbog]

Originally Posted by RodsGreen10

Yep how mine is only 1 bare area. I believe that may be why they said run a ground from the carb stud.

Originally Posted by RodsGreen10

Yep how mine is only 1 bare area. It has 2 but how mine bolts in it is only contacting 1 bare spot. I believe that may be why they said run a ground from the carb stud.

You and your damn edits....

[RodsGreen10]

Originally Posted by swampbog

I looked at your video again, (it's one of the videos that popped up on a search) and I think I found a issue.
It's that damn clear air cleaner cover you have. The FiTech unit can see that it's crappy outside and it doesn't want to get out of bed.
https://youtu.be/rfauqfN8m7c?t=18s

Lol.

[RodsGreen10]

Originally Posted by swampbog

Gotta ask.
Is that the one you put the ground to and made sure it electrically contacts the bare area?

No. I hooked the HEI module to a back carb stud and its is grounded. Also just checked the bare are it is getting ground also.

[ray1970]

Ray here.

I'm done beating this horse after this...For it my not be your problem.

Lets go back in time when Yamaha made the XS650 twins late 70s
They would not e-start when cold unless the battery was less than two months old
but would go off first kick.....when warm they fired rite up it drove me crazy and the customers weren't real happy.....The Ing.would not work over the draw of the starter..

I'm glad those days are over...

Well its time to load my snowmobiles and go for a ride.


You do have a kick starter...Well maybe a hand crank....just kidding....

Ray. OUT

[swampbog]

Originally Posted by RodsGreen10

No. I hooked the HEI module to a back carb stud and its is grounded. Also just checked the bare are it is getting ground also.

Hmm..I wonder if it's not making a proper ground on the inside of the unit.
Or could it still be a fuel issue. But the screen going white (or gray for Ray) kinda makes me think it's electrical somehow.

Some of what I've been reading
http://www.chevelles.com/forums/show...835633&page=10 Post 142 to 169 and it continues on with others stating no issues.

And another who fiddle with the IAC and had 12V issues
http://gmc.mybirdfeeder.net/GMCforum...o=292259&rid=0

http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/...-review-4.html Post 65 talking about ground issues with cold start

Seems to be something with the 12V and ground.
I still say try the direct wire for hot and ground and on the ground try all the studs just to put that to rest.
We have a few more months of cold to get this figured out. Just what you wanted to hear, isn't it.

[RodsGreen10]

Originally Posted by swampbog

Hmm..I wonder if it's not making a proper ground on the inside of the unit.
Or could it still be a fuel issue. But the screen going white (or gray for Ray) kinda makes me think it's electrical somehow.

Some of what I've been reading
http://www.chevelles.com/forums/show...835633&page=10 Post 142 to 169 and it continues on with others stating no issues.

And another who fiddle with the IAC and had 12V issues
http://gmc.mybirdfeeder.net/GMCforum...o=292259&rid=0

http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/...-review-4.html Post 65 talking about ground issues with cold start

Seems to be something with the 12V and ground.
I still say try the direct wire for hot and ground and on the ground try all the studs just to put that to rest.
We have a few more months of cold to get this figured out. Just what you wanted to hear, isn't it.

Thanks man I appreciate that. I hate the cold weather. Got some reading ahead of me. Plus funeral which I dread.

[diceman50]

Originally Posted by swampbog

I really believe in a dedicated grounds and running the biggest wire I can to the starter and alternator.

I'm with you swampbog. Sometimes I ground my grounds!

[swampbog]

Like I said i get to mess with yours to fix any problems when I finally get mine.
It's just me thinking of myself.

Speaking of myself...

Have you seen Holleys' new Hydra Mat
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yfE1v65fNZI
I'm thinking of getting one for me or maybe even going to Tanks Inc fuel pump module http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/pa...prod/prd84.htm
But I kinda like the idea of having the fuel pump externally mounted so if it goes bad on a trail I can easily replace it without dropping the tank.
But the Hydra Mat isn't cheap either and they say 5-10 years before you should replace it depending on the dirtiness of the fuel and how often you drive it. Again dropping the tank to replace it.
But if I cut an access panel in the floor I can do either easily.

Oh and I'm running all PTFE line from tank to the EFI.

[RodsGreen10]

Originally Posted by swampbog

Hmm..I wonder if it's not making a proper ground on the inside of the unit.
Or could it still be a fuel issue. But the screen going white (or gray for Ray) kinda makes me think it's electrical somehow.

Some of what I've been reading
http://www.chevelles.com/forums/show...835633&page=10 Post 142 to 169 and it continues on with others stating no issues.

And another who fiddle with the IAC and had 12V issues
http://gmc.mybirdfeeder.net/GMCforum...o=292259&rid=0

http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/...-review-4.html Post 65 talking about ground issues with cold start

Seems to be something with the 12V and ground.
I still say try the direct wire for hot and ground and on the ground try all the studs just to put that to rest.
We have a few more months of cold to get this figured out. Just what you wanted to hear, isn't it.

Well looks like a damn ground issue. Ordered up some grounds from Amazon.

[LostMy65]

Originally Posted by Crushkrew

... clip......I have heard that other FI systems like to be hooked directly to battery...yes 12v is 12v...but when cranking I would imagine that every AMP to the FI counts....shortest distance and least amount of draw on a wire and all that.....

.
I've been watching installation videos for some of the other guys units, and I noticed that also. Their computer units have a large black wire and a large red wire, and they want them both wired directly to the battery terminals.

[RodsGreen10]

Originally Posted by swampbog

Like I said i get to mess with yours to fix any problems when I finally get mine.
It's just me thinking of myself.

Speaking of myself...

Have you seen Holleys' new Hydra Mat
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yfE1v65fNZI
I'm thinking of getting one for me or maybe even going to Tanks Inc fuel pump module http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/pa...prod/prd84.htm
But I kinda like the idea of having the fuel pump externally mounted so if it goes bad on a trail I can easily replace it without dropping the tank.
But the Hydra Mat isn't cheap either and they say 5-10 years before you should replace it depending on the dirtiness of the fuel and how often you drive it. Again dropping the tank to replace it.
But if I cut an access panel in the floor I can do either easily.

Oh and I'm running all PTFE line from tank to the EFI.

Yep I saw that. Good choice on fuel line!!

[RodsGreen10]

Originally Posted by LostMy65

.
I've been watching installation videos for some of the other guys units, and I noticed that also. Their computer units have a large black wire and a large red wire, and they want them both wired directly to the battery terminals.

The FiTech does not have a ground wire it ground thought the studs on the intake. And I will argue until I am blue in the face about how I have it hooked up. Lol. The junction block is tied into the battery.

[swampbog]

Originally Posted by diceman50

I'm with you swampbog. Sometimes I ground my grounds!

I have a Jeep with a fiberglass body so I know all about grounds. Plus the older CJs were known to have ground issues. If you wanted brighter headlamps the easiest thing to do was run a dedicated ground from each light and taa-daa you look like your running your high beams and now your high beams are actually blinding people.
On my Jeep everything has a dedicated ground or it's clustered to a dedicated ground.
I have ground lugs everywhere and it's ridiculous.

[diceman50]

I have a friend who installed one on a Bronco. Engine would start and then die. Changed the battery and it ran great for a while. Then it wouldn't start at all. It burned up a couple of the pins in the power connector. (the yellow one) He sent it back to FiTech and I have not heard the outcome.

I am getting ready to put one on a friends 69 Camaro. We have already decided if we have any of these issues we will just use the throttle body and the injectors and run it with a GM computer like we are doing with the Retrotec throttle bodies on my Apache. I hope it doesn't come to that.

[RodsGreen10]

This is how I described it to Jeremy from FiTech. Imagine it like this battery on the left junction box on the right starter in the middle. They all connect at the start which is the center point. So what would it make a difference connecting at battery vs junction box. It all runs to the starter.

[RodsGreen10]

Looks like this. So you have a visual. The batter terminal and the terminal from the junction block connect on the same stud on the starter. So how in the hell is connecting direct to be battery different that how I have it hooked it is getting the same voltage it is tied into the battery?