Starting my engine build

[Mrturner1]

Here's the barn I'll be turning into a shop )

[Mrturner1]

It's pretty good sized, much deeper than it is wide.

[Grumpy old man]

Well... Your only a few bolts away from having out GO RENT AN ENGINE LIFT ! and buy a decent used engine stand off craigslist . pull it out ,Do it right and enjoy your new toy for years . Once out you can pressure wash the engine bay and frame ,a little basic paint work and clean up the wiring then on install you'll be much happier with not only your engine but where it lives also .

[Mrturner1]

Originally Posted by Grumpy old man

Well... Your only a few bolts away from having out GO RENT AN ENGINE LIFT ! and buy a decent used engine stand off craigslist . pull it out ,Do it right and enjoy your new toy for years . Once out you can pressure wash the engine bay and frame ,a little basic paint work and clean up the wiring then on install you'll be much happier with not only your engine but where it lives also .

There is no arguing that Grumpy I do have a question though. When I get the engine out, are you suggesting that I take the pistons out and rebuild the bottom end? I'm just trying to get an idea of how far into it you think I should go. I think you posted in my transmission thread as well. I have a TH400 that has too quick of a 1-2 shift but a perfect 2-3 shift. The trans might be coming out to. I got an adjustable modulator and that doesn't require transmission removal, however I may freshen the th400 up while I'm in there. It needs the modulator installed and a stall converter at the least.

So what do you think Grumpy?

[GASoline71]

"Freshening up" an automatic transmission is a whole new ball game. I'd just stick with the engine for now. Install the adjustable modulator in the TH400and go.

You shouldn't need to tear down the short block.

Again, it sounds like you're ready to create work for the sake of creating wok.

Unless it has worn rings... it will be fine.

You'll need and engine hoist to raise the engine to pull the pan.

Gary

[Mrturner1]

Originally Posted by GASoline71

"Freshening up" an automatic transmission is a whole new ball game. I'd just stick with the engine for now. Install the adjustable modulator in the TH400and go.

You shouldn't need to tear down the short block.

Again, it sounds like you're ready to create work for the sake of creating wok.

Unless it has worn rings... it will be fine.

You'll need and engine hoist to raise the engine to pull the pan.

Gary

I don't just want to create work. He has been talking about pulling the whole motor for a while so I wanted to ask what would the benefit of that be. He says enjoy the motor for years by pulling it, so I was curious how he thought id do that and why it won't last years without pulling it.

[Grumpy old man]

No , I'm not suggesting you tear down the bottom end . Pull the short block put it on a stand and clean it ,I would throw a new oil pump in it while it's out and easy.Get it back together put some paint on it and then bolt your chrome goodies on it but realize that chrome tin rusts faster than your auto shifts from 1st to 2nd

I'm pretty sure someones already been in your trans and I wouldn't open another can of worms until it's running again with the new modulator and converter it may be fine . and post more pictures of the engine and trans there may be other little things someone might notice to help you along .

[Average Joe]

Since you have gone this far, might as well pull the motor. Not much more work at this stage and working on the motor will be much easier on your back. If you do buy a cherry picker, I would get a "collapsible" unit with removeable legs. They take up much less space and are easier to transport when a friend borrows it. They are a very useful tool. You can even use it to pull a cab or bed off if you are careful. An engine stand is very handy as well. Generally I will pull a motor if I am doing anything more than an intake. Once you have the tools you are more eager to take a project like this on, and I hate borrowing or renting.

[Mrturner1]

There's a nice engine stand at Napa down the street for 80 bucks. If I go this route I'd rent a cherry picker for now. 30 bucks a day isn't bad and I'll buy one down the road. Ugh, well I suppose it'd make sense to pull it and paint. And I guess K am a little worried about the cylinder walls. I stuffed the cylinders but when I was running the tap into the block, the little metal flakes and debris made me cringe just thinking it MIGHT be in the cylinder somehow. Oki doke, I'll start unboltin the tranny. I can leave the hood on correct?

Thanks you guys Matt

[Mrturner1]

Originally Posted by Grumpy old man

but realize that chrome tin rusts faster than your auto shifts from 1st to 2nd

Now that's funny

[GRX]

$80 engine stand ... try to stay away from the 3 point stands. Four is where it's at.

[Mrturner1]

Got some company today. My new 1 month old wants to see the truck

[Redline novdog]

Not running yet?, LOL Just a thought, compression ratio? The combustion chambers the same size on both sets of heads and the head gaskets thickness ? shims or composite? As for the right person the old heads would be worth something( not me) for an old build

[GASoline71]

Originally Posted by GRX

$80 engine stand ... try to stay away from the 3 point stands. Four is where it's at.

This ^^^

Ask me how I know 3 point stands suck...

Gary

[Mrturner1]

Originally Posted by GASoline71

This ^^^

Ask me how I know 3 point stands suck...

Gary

There's a good story behind this I can tell lol lets hear it

[Mrturner1]

Originally Posted by Redline novdog

Not running yet?, LOL Just a thought, compression ratio? The combustion chambers the same size on both sets of heads and the head gaskets thickness ? shims or composite? As for the right person the old heads would be worth something( not me) for an old build

I'm taking the heads back to the machine shop and the guy is going to CC them to be sure they are the same, as well as determine what CC they are. He's going to let me borrow his cherry picker too

[tcrist]

You might want to see if he can spot face the area where the head bolts go so you can use a good 6 point 1/2" drive socket for installing the heads.

[Mrturner1]

I just met my neighbors after just moving in a month ago, and he has an engine stand AND a really nice engine hoist that he says I can have because he bought them to build his 46 Willys and doesn't need them anymore! Score! So I'm all set for that, time to pull an engine

[Mrturner1]

The machine shop mechanic also said if I wanted to bring him the block, he could mag and clean it, polish the crank and put in all new bearings and new rings on the Pistons, home the cylinders and deck the block a little to put me at 9.5 to 1 compression, all for 700 bucks. I didn't give an answer but again that just seems like a lot of extra stuff I didn't plan on. I'm excited about getting it on the engine stand and cleaning/reassembling it. This was a good suggestion and I really think it'll run longer because of the extra attention it got cleaning. I'm also going to clean the block and re-paint it Chevy orange. It was painted before but looks terrible now.

[swamp rat]

Nice score on the cherry picker and engine stand, free is always good.

Pull the hood, might get a second hand with that.

To clean the outside of the block get some scrapers, wire brushes and some cleaner degreasers from the auto parts store

[Grumpy old man]

I'm going to say it .....See what opportunities arose just by slowing down a bit ? and I'm going to say since the machine shop seems to be giving you fair prices would it break your bank to just take everything to them and have them bring it back to a clean correct sealed long block for you ? then you could have the time to correct any wiring problems and really do a nice job on clean up and still have the hands on fun of installing the intake and exhaust and break in run up with the knowledge your gaining from the whole process ??? and DON"T forget to check all the fuel lines and tank/filters and install hard line fuel lines before you turn the key and drag sludge from the tank into your new baby. ??? you'll be way ahead and know for sure it's really ready to go back together and stay together for a long time and possibly gain some type of guarantee ?? .break it in right (the machine shop will guide you in the right direction )

[Mrturner1]

Originally Posted by Grumpy old man

I'm going to say it .....See what opportunities arose just by slowing down a bit ? and I'm going to say since the machine shop seems to be giving you fair prices would it break your bank to just take everything to them and have them bring it back to a clean correct sealed long block for you ? then you could have the time to correct any wiring problems and really do a nice job on clean up and still have the hands on fun of installing the intake and exhaust and break in run up with the knowledge your gaining from the whole process ??? and DON"T forget to check all the fuel lines and tank/filters and install hard line fuel lines before you turn the key and drag sludge from the tank into your new baby. ??? you'll be way ahead and know for sure it's really ready to go back together and stay together for a long time and possibly gain some type of guarantee ?? .break it in right (the machine shop will guide you in the right direction )

I am going to have them Cc the heads, but as far as re assembly I'm gonna do that in the barn don't want them taking all my glory

[BrianG]

Grumpy really is on to something about being this far and having them provide you with a complete long block. I do understand that you want to do it yourself also. Perhaps see if they will let you assist with the reassembly of the crank and heads. Even if they didn't cut the price, You would learn SOOOO much from such an experience and you know it would be done in a clean environment and done right. The sequence of tightening the bolts, the proper tourque specs and honestly, the correct way to use a torque wrench are all very critical when putting it back together. It's probably a long shot that they'd even let you 'assist' or watch, but who knows. Depending on the shop and what kind of connections you've been making with them, you might even get one of the guys to come over and give you a hand if they won't let you 'assist' at their place.

[Mrturner1]

Originally Posted by BrianG

Grumpy really is on to something about being this far and having them provide you with a complete long block. I do understand that you want to do it yourself also. Perhaps see if they will let you assist with the reassembly of the crank and heads. Even if they didn't cut the price, You would learn SOOOO much from such an experience and you know it would be done in a clean environment and done right. The sequence of tightening the bolts, the proper tourque specs and honestly, the correct way to use a torque wrench are all very critical when putting it back together. It's probably a long shot that they'd even let you 'assist' or watch, but who knows. Depending on the shop and what kind of connections you've been making with them, you might even get one of the guys to come over and give you a hand if they won't let you 'assist' at their place.

I'd rather do it myself, especially since I'm this far into it. No reason I can't follow a torque rating and bolt sequence. That seems pretty straight forward to me

[Mrturner1]

The cherry picker and engine stand will be here in an hour. Got some rain today so I spent some time cleaning up the GM 492's that came off the truck. Amazing how far a little cleaner and scrubbing goes.