Is a new track bar a must?

[Longley428]

Lowering my 69 c10 with the 4/6 hotchkis spring kit and doing either an additional 1-2" block on the rear to help level it out. Will I "need" a super trac bar/24"+ bar or will a new 24" adjustable be just fine? The truck will not be driven hard or ever tracked at all. Just cruise around town

[SCOTI]

A 24" bar is about original length. An adjustable original length bar will work it will just allow more side shift vs a longer aftermarket bar.

[PGSigns]

With that much drop I would run the long bar. It will give you the adjustment you will need and also ad to the handling.
Jimmy

[Longley428]

I am looking at one CCP makes that is between 24"-30", just don't want to put overkill suspension stuff on the truck due to it will barely be driven and won't see many turns

[SCOTI]

Not sure I would classify a longer aftermarket bar that has better geometry as overkill.

[PGSigns]

Nope not overkill at all. Your running hotckis parts so you may as well run better bar. The ECE super track bar is a goood one.
Jimmy

[Longley428]

Good deal! Thanks everyone!!

[BigMike]

Ya, I just bought the CPP bent Trac Bar and love it. I have bags and it helps keep the rear end centered throughout the travel that my stock one just couldn't do. You won't need the bent one, I got it because a straight one won't work with my polished finned diff cover.

[Longley428]

Originally Posted by BigMike

Ya, I just bought the CPP bent Trac Bar and love it. I have bags and it helps keep the rear end centered throughout the travel that my stock one just couldn't do. You won't need the bent one, I got it because a straight one won't work with my polished finned diff cover.

Do you suggest the one that attaches to the passenger side trailing arm or the shorter adjustable one that uses original location for mounting

[SCOTI]

If going aftermarket, use the longest bar possible. The cost difference is minimal.

[BigMike]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

If going aftermarket, use the longest bar possible. The cost difference is minimal.

Agreed, the longer the better. A shorter trac bar/panhard bar will allow more side to side movement of the rear end, which is not a good thing. The longer ones have very little side to side movement. Mine goes from the stock location on the drivers side frame to the trailing arm on the passenger side. You don't need a bent one like I got if you are using the stock diff cover. I was initially going to go with a Porterbuilt but I didn't like the fact of having to use a new frame bracket for the drivers side. I went with CPP because I already have a bunch of their stuff on my truck & like the quality, plus I could use the stock frame bracket.

Here is a great shot of one on another members build, it's pretty straight forward. Would be a perfect time to install lowering blocks if you were going to anyways

[BigMike]

Also, I would order it from Summit instead of directly from CPP. Summit has faster shipping, similar pricing & better return policy. I usually just drive to CPP when I buy from them because they are fairly local. But many people have complained about them when shipping is involved. Summit is just a better source when you need it shipped IMO.

Here's their eBay link
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Classic-Perf...YAAOSwLVZV4Nd8

[SCOTI]

The benefit of a different frame mount is if it has the ability to tune (level) the Panhard Bar @ ride height. Same for the T/A mount. Something to consider when analyzing cost vs benefit.

[hvacfatboy]

i have a porterbuilt trac bar that i cannot use that is already powder coated black it is a straight bar that attaches to trailing arm on passenger side and to frame on driver side it is adjustable it retails for 199.00 plus shipping and then paint or powder coat plus wait time I will sale mine for 199.00 plus shipping let me know thanks Richie

[Longley428]

Originally Posted by BigMike

Agreed, the longer the better. A shorter trac bar/panhard bar will allow more side to side movement of the rear end, which is not a good thing. The longer ones have very little side to side movement. Mine goes from the stock location on the drivers side frame to the trailing arm on the passenger side. You don't need a bent one like I got if you are using the stock diff cover. I was initially going to go with a Porterbuilt but I didn't like the fact of having to use a new frame bracket for the drivers side. I went with CPP because I already have a bunch of their stuff on my truck & like the quality, plus I could use the stock frame bracket.

Here is a great shot of one on another members build, it's pretty straight forward. Would be a perfect time to install lowering blocks if you were going to anyways

Thank you for the info!! Do you know any more suspension info on this truck in the picture? Or if you have a setup like I am doing... I would like to know if I need to do 1” blocks or 2” blocks. Since I am doing 4” springs in the front and 6” in the rear I don’t want the rear lower than the front but I reeeeeaalllyyy don’t want the rear higher (rake) just level and low as I can, and I have noticed with the 4/6 drops it still leaves a rake stance. Thanks again to all the info everyone!!

[Longley428]

Originally Posted by hvacfatboy

i have a porterbuilt trac bar that i cannot use that is already powder coated black it is a straight bar that attaches to trailing arm on passenger side and to frame on driver side it is adjustable it retails for 199.00 plus shipping and then paint or powder coat plus wait time I will sale mine for 199.00 plus shipping let me know thanks Richie

Thank you for the offer, but due to my location (GA) Summit is about 1 1/2 hours away so I will be making a trip this weekend to pick one they have on hold. Thank you though!

[BigMike]

Do you have dropped spindles up front? I'm guessing not with 4" springs but have to ask. I would put the springs on and see where she sits. I had 3" springs with 2.5" spindles up front & 5" springs with 1" blocks in the rear and it had a slight rake to it. The picture I took is with that setup before I went with bags. I think the 4/6 should be close to level. I think 2" blocks would make the rear look like it's sagging. But again, see what just the springs look like and go from there

[Longley428]

Originally Posted by BigMike

Do you have dropped spindles up front? I'm guessing not with 4" springs but have to ask. I would put the springs on and see where she sits. I had 3" springs with 2.5" spindles up front & 5" springs with 1" blocks in the rear and it had a slight rake to it. The picture I took is with that setup before I went with bags. I think the 4/6 should be close to level. I think 2" blocks would make the rear look like it's sagging. But again, see what just the springs look like and go from there

No, I don't have drop spindles, that makes sense! I will try it with just springs and see how it comes out! Also what wheel/tires are you running in this picture?

[BigMike]

I'm running the car style rally wheels. 275/60/15's on 10" wheels on the rear and 235/60/15 on 7" wheels in the front.