My 83' Crew Cab Dually project

[DblTrbl]

I stripped the front clip off the suburban today and started getting everything fit up on the truck. I've run into a pretty significant problem with the header panel. I had a bad feeling about this area, so I measured over and over again and thought I had it, but turned out I screwed up someplace...where, I'm still not sure. So I stopped focusing on what went wrong I'm trying to work out what it's going to take to get it fixed now. I trimmed back the frame at an angle to make a little more room and it looks like I may have to drop the horns 1/2" still, but that being said, I'm finding that the radiator is going to have to move to passenger side about an inch to clear the steering box. Even then, it's nosebleed tight. Anyone else run into this with a Z? I raised 4" and forward 1". I compensated for both when I did the front horns...?

[tinydb84]

My horns ended up about an inch too high. Never figured out why... I did my body mounts at the same time though. I haven't fit a radiator in yet either.

[DblTrbl]

I've searched and searched, but didn't find the answers I need. (It's very possible that I just suck at searching). So...I'm gonna move forward with the modifications I started and see how it pans out. I got the core support close enough to bolt up fenders. The big issue is radiator fitment at this point...

[Ghostwhite]

Did you move the frame horns back an inch to match the Z? If I understand the problem your having, it would actually make the problem worse but I'm pretty sure if you Z forward the horns will actually come back for the body mounts to stay in the same place/distance relative to the body. Only the portion of the frame that gets raised moves forward.


Like: _/--/_
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If you did this and I missed it then please disregard!

[DblTrbl]

Originally Posted by Ghostwhite

Did you move the frame horns back an inch to match the Z? If I understand the problem your having, it would actually make the problem worse but I'm pretty sure if you Z forward the horns will actually come back for the body mounts to stay in the same place/distance relative to the body. Only the portion of the frame that gets raised moves forward.


Like: _/--/_
Not: _/--l_

If you did this and I missed it then please disregard!

Yes. I took an inch out when I dropped the horns back down. I found what I think is causing all the trouble yesterday. The truck took a pretty hard hit to the driver side at some point. It looks like the b-pillar was replaced and the a-pillar was repaired. It wasn't done very well because the driver's door striker has like 15 frickin washers on it. When I swapped the burb door on, I could see where everything was shifted back.

I was trying to get the header panel lined up by bolting the fenders on and that was pulling it back. So what appears to have happened is, I leveled up and squared everything on my frame and I'm trying to connect everything with a crooked cab. (I was wondering why everything was shimmed so much on the driver's side)

The solution I've come up with that seems to be going to work, is to cut loose the perches that the header sits on and get all the body panels gapped and shimmed, then I'll burn the perches back in place. I've got it down to about 1/2" now. I have to put the hood on to get the clip squared up and I should be good to go....

[DblTrbl]

Problem solved. Now back to making things shiny and new...

Cleaned and painted up the '91 header panel. Watching the paint dry.

[DblTrbl]

Took care of Valentine's lastnight and the girlfriend gave me today in the shop as her gift to me...best gift I could have gotten.

I made a little progress. Both front doors are mounted, core support is in along with the radiator and I finished up the new air plenum. I got the lighting harness worked out and everything works as it should. If anyone has a schematic for the door locks and Windows wiring, it would be super helpful. I can't seem to locate anything...

[HafTon]

Awesome build and thanks for posting it. Please keep posting progress.

[ruffrida2005]

Send me your email. I got some pdf's

[tinydb84]

Good progress man. I wish I worked that fast.

[slammed427]

Looking good bro.

[DblTrbl]

Thanks guys.

I installed the stainless heater hoses and radiator hoses. I also put in a flexible trans dipstick (the stock one stuck up too high and the hood hit it).



I need to build a shroud for the electric fans and get those installed in the next few days.

I just picked up a shear, press brake and a slip roller, so I'm going to build a handful of the air boxes like the one I did for this project. If anyone wants one, msg me or hit me up on Instagram.

[DblTrbl]

Took a trip to AutoZone to get my fan belts...got back to the shop and dude gave me the 1/2" wide ones instead of 3/8" wide. Took another trip to return them and get the 3/8" ones. Dude gave me ones that were too short. Took another trip and *****ed at them for making me come back a third time. They finally gave me the correct ones....except one of them was the wrong belt in the right package! Took a fourth trip and finally got the right belts. What should have been a 30 minute deal including purchase and installation turned into almost four hours...so my fan belts are in now!

I finished up a little bodywork on the left fender and got it in primer and decided I really needed to see the grille on this pig. It's been too long since it resembled a complete front end. I'm gonna see about getting the front bumper mounted tomorrow. I expect the brackets will need significant modifications, but who knows; maybe I'll get lucky!

[DblTrbl]

I got one rear door on and aligned. Boy do I suck at panel alignment. Took me way too long and I've invented new swear words.



And my power windows all stopped working suddenly. I'm kind of at a loss. Fuses are good. Grounds are good. Anybody have the knack for these things that can point me in the right direction?

[aggie91]

one tip I learned about aligning panels is to start with the first adjustable part that meets up against a non-adjustable part.

For a crew cab or suburban, that would be the rear door to cab alignment, then on to the front door, then to the front fender. Once both front fenders are aligned with the doors, then the hood.

For the windows, the switches are crap in those years. but if none of the switches work at all, it could be the main switch on the driver's door...

[DblTrbl]

The switches are indeed crap. I found the issue. The battery itself had a bad connection and mounting the doors up apparently jarred it. It seems that my passenger rear window motor is shot though. I'll have to source a replacement.

The electric fans arrived and I got them installed along with building a filler panel for above the radiator.

[DblTrbl]

Well this little bastard has quickly become a big thorn in my ass.



I bought an aluminum transmission pan for the th400 because the stamped steel always leaks (just like all of the rest of the stamped steel parts I replaced). Now I've found out that these trans had two different length filter pickup tubes. Mine has the long one, so my new pan won't fit. Not one of the auto parts stores can find either length of the tubes and even the dealer is scratching thier head. I remember buying filter kits years ago and they always came with a new tube...the kits now are just a filter and a gasket.

Does anyone know which vehicles had the shallow pans or where I can find a short tube?

[Chevy_mud_truck]

Might check with these guys the show a couple different ones

[D.FENS]

Seems like you are a pretty proficient TIG welder.

Have somebody with a lathe turn some .120 wall 6061 tube to the correct size for the slip fit ends, then cut / weld them together.

[DblTrbl]

I found one company online that has them. Set me back $40, but it should be here tomorrow. I considered trying to build one, but with the double flares on each end, it would have been a huge PITA, since my flaring tool doesn't go that big. Chevy_mud_truck - that site looks to have a lot of stuff, but it's terrible to navigate!

[DblTrbl]

Acquired a different fuel tank through some dealing. This one fits a lot better...almost perfect actually. My frame rails are 27.5" inside and the tank is 27.25".

I had to cut a new hole and install the original sending unit because the one that came with it was functioning at different resistance (240-30 vs 0-30 ohms) fortunately, the original sending units have a large o-ring that sits in a relief around the top...I peeled that out, made a simple retaining ring from .125 aluminum and bolted it all together with stainless...looks like it will work great!

[Chevy_mud_truck]

Originally Posted by DblTrbl

I found one company online that has them. Set me back $40, but it should be here tomorrow. I considered trying to build one, but with the double flares on each end, it would have been a huge PITA, since my flaring tool doesn't go that big. Chevy_mud_truck - that site looks to have a lot of stuff, but it's terrible to navigate!

Yes it is

[ruffrida2005]

How many gallons is that tank?

[DblTrbl]

Originally Posted by ruffrida2005

how many gallons is that tank?

22.5

[slammed427]

Looking good man!