Tig welder

[Tomo]

I have been wanting to buy my own welder for a while and now that I have my 70 k5 project I NEED a welder. I have been mig & stick welding for a while now - my dad has both and I can use them when I need to fab something. I've done a lot of research and really want a tig welder because we don't have one and it will allow us to weld aluminum & stainless. But how practical will it be to use only a tig welder for floor repair and body work on the blazer? Main thing the blazer is at my house and I don't want to have to take it back and forth to my dads to use his mig or drag his welder to my house.

Thanks for the advice
Tom

[Bigdav160]

I love using TIG on body panels. I tack them with the MIG and complete with the TIG. The metal finish time is greatly reduced even though the welding takes longer.

For car repair I'd want both.

[Tomo]

Maybe I should consider a multiprocess welder like:
Miller Multimatic 200 or Lincoln MP 210
Both are mig tig and arc

Both are DC only so aluminum won't be possible but I can live with that.

Anyone have a multiprocess welder?

[Advanced Design]

I just bought the Miller Synchrowave 210. It is easy to set up and welds very nicely.
The torch is almost like holding a pencil and the lead is very light.

It came with stick weld and spool mig weld attachments too, though I doubt I will ever use them since I have welders for those applications.

[tinydb84]

Originally Posted by Tomo

Maybe I should consider a multiprocess welder like:
Miller Multimatic 200 or Lincoln MP 210
Both are mig tig and arc

Both are DC only so aluminum won't be possible but I can live with that.

Anyone have a multiprocess welder?

I don't have a multi process but I believe most don't have high frequency start. For me personally that is a deal breaker.

You can weld aluminum with DC and helium but it doesn't come out as pretty and the cost for helium makes it not worthwhile for most of the stuff we are doing.

I bought the AHP Alphatig. Had a bit of a hiccup at first (bad torch) but ultimately replaced it with a CK9 and have been happy as a clam since. I tig my body panels (and pretty much everything I weld in my garage).

Here is my bedside I shortened:

[Tomo]

Originally Posted by tinydb84

I don't have a multi process but I believe most don't have high frequency start. For me personally that is a deal breaker.

You can weld aluminum with DC and helium but it doesn't come out as pretty and the cost for helium makes it not worthwhile for most of the stuff we are doing.

I bought the AHP Alphatig. Had a bit of a hiccup at first (bad torch) but ultimately replaced it with a CK9 and have been happy as a clam since. I tig my body panels (and pretty much everything I weld in my garage).

Here is my bedside I shortened:

Good reviews on that alphatig and its less than what I planned on spending - leaves room for upgrades - I might give it a try.

[A1971Blazer]

What's your process on tig welding the panels...........it looks like you stitch in what ? about 1" increments?

[tinydb84]

Originally Posted by Tomo

Good reviews on that alphatig and its less than what I planned on spending - leaves room for upgrades - I might give it a try.

Its got quite a few features. I ordered it through Amazon that way if I had troubles I could return it. The peddle and torch it comes with leave a lot to be desired. I flipped the peddle around and use it backwards and it works fine.

Ive got 3-4 80cf bottles through it. Used all the features. No issues yet.

Originally Posted by A1971Blazer

What's your process on tig welding the panels...........it looks like you stitch in what ? about 1" increments?

I tack every 6inches or so if it is a straight with no body lines. I tack each body line. I weld about an inch or so and stop if the panels start to overlap. Then planish and move to another area that is cool.

Nice thing about the tig is if your gap is too big you can usually use a thicker rod that fits in the gap and freehand weave it in. I put most of the heat into the rod to avoid warping and let it wash over the sides.

[Tomo]

Originally Posted by tinydb84

Its got quite a few features. I ordered it through Amazon that way if I had troubles I could return it. The peddle and torch it comes with leave a lot to be desired. I flipped the peddle around and use it backwards and it works fine.

Ive got 3-4 80cf bottles through it. Used all the features. No issues yet.



I tack every 6inches or so if it is a straight with no body lines. I tack each body line. I weld about an inch or so and stop if the panels start to overlap. Then planish and move to another area that is cool.

Nice thing about the tig is if your gap is too big you can usually use a thicker rod that fits in the gap and freehand weave it in. I put most of the heat into the rod to avoid warping and let it wash over the sides.

Hey David - I just ordered my alphatig. Do you have an auto darkening helmet that works well with tig welding? Their are endless options would great if you could share what's works for you - from what I read not all helmets can pick up low amp tig arc.

[tinydb84]

Definitely order the CK9 torch unless you are used to using a 17 (Its huge and harder to work with).
I have two helmets. I use a harbor freight for my mig welding. It will flash you repeatedly if you try to use it tig welding.

Amazon had a great deal for almost half price so I bought this one: 3M Speedglas Welding Helmet 9100 with Standard...
I cant say enough good things about it. My buddy used it once and went out and bought a new helmet. Just to note though, my old welding instructor (welds for a military contractor) uses a big screen fixed shade. Says it works better for him (just his two cents).

[BR3W CITY]

So my buddy bought an AlphaTig recently and I got to use it for the first time. I like to use A/C aluminum welding as the "judge" of how good a tig is, since to me, its the defining reason to own one.

The Good about the Alpha;

• Seems well built case and IGBT internals.
• Power source "sounds" good on A/C, and maintains a pretty stable arc.
• Does A/c, D/c, and high freq pulse.
• Fairly easy to setup without much explanation, only a few odd controls.
• Cheap.

The Bad;

• That stock torch is horendous. I think it would be useable for a new welder, or maybe if you REALLY wanted to use that thumb switch, but otherwise is just feels tacky in your hands.
• The stock gas reg is very low quality. It doesn't have the good flow meter built in, and for auto-fab, you'll want a dual reg anyway.
• The stock foot pedal...this may the the BIGGEST complaint. Apparently these style are more common in Europe and Asia, but it feels weird to me (best comparison I have is driving a car with a floor-mount clutch). Its hard to get used to its spring feedback, and just doesn't fit my size14 work boot.

I'd say for a weekend warrior, its a nice unit. You can always upgrade the torch, pedal, and regulator as they use connections that are common enough in the industry that you can use the "big" guys parts.

The only real competition for it would be the low-midrange welders from Everlast like the 185ext. Their torch and pedal are nicer, and the regulator is generic but of decent quality with a flow meter. Its about $300 more, but with the torch pedal and reg, its nearly the same cost. Your only advantage there being the brick-n-mortar support for returns and warranty thru HD/Lowes/Neus

[tinydb84]

Right there with you for the torch and peddle. I replaced my torch but just spun the peddle around and it works fine for me. Mine came with a flow meter not a regulator though. It reads a bit higher than it actually flows. I have a small torch meter that you put over the end of your torch to get the actual flow.

I was thinking about ordering a dual feed meter but I think I am going to just by a second tank and get an additional meter for it. I dont always get a chance to get to the welding shop and a second tank will serve me well.

[dfrank]

The Jackson nexgen is a great hood for tig welding. I think it picks up down to 2 amp tig. I use my nexgen for everything. Very clear adf. I've never used the 3m speedglass but I havent heard anything but good things about them.

[dwcsr]

Try the Lincoln Viking 3550. Much clearer than my Nexgen. better color same price

[dfrank]

Originally Posted by dwcsr

Try the Lincoln Viking 3550. Much clearer than my Nexgen. better color same price

I have heard good things about the viking. Havent had a chance to use one though. I think they have the higest optical clarity rating you can get. Than again if clarity is all your looking for than a gold plated fixed shade lens cant be beat.

[BR3W CITY]

Yall know me and shameless self promotion. I did a review on the Miller Digital Elite helmet. I like it a lot for the money.

You Tube

[Mr. 250r]

Viking 3350 is good helmet I have owned it for about 4 years and reviewed it as well i opted for that over a digital elite at the time because back then the digital elite had a smaller screen and the digital infinity helmets which have an equivalent sized screen weren't out yet. The only change i have seen so far is the headgear has been updated mine broke once in 4 years the new one appears to be more like a miller elite headgear with more adjustments but i am still on the older style and it works fine.

[A1971Blazer]

I wanted an entry level tig machine and a couple of years ago I was at my welding suppliers........they were demonstrating a Miller Diversion 180 tig machine....it fit the bill for what I wanted at the time so I bought it at a discount because it was a demo (only one time).

My primary business is high precision CNC machining but occasionally we need to tig weld something....I always had to send it out to a welding shop.

Now I can do most small tig jobs in house....not to mention my hobby stuff too!

https://www.millerwelds.com/equipmen...ion-180-m00337

[Marv D]

IMO you can not spend too much on a GOOD helmet if you weld much at all. Once your old and blind like me you want something with a WIDE lens and a 1.5 or 2 power cheater!!!, and some LIGHT so you can see WTF your doing. I spent a bit at cyberweld.com but it's amazing what a difference a GOOD helmet makes.
I bought a Digital Performance and added the light and cheater lenses. It's is all I need for the Miller SyncroWave 200. I've welded stainless, aluminum sheet steel, and even some crazy alloys I didn't know what it was. I'm by far not a 'good' welder, but the right equipment is a MUST if your going to stand a chance to learn.

Funny a GOOD experienced welder seems to be able to make a BEAUTIFUL weld with a $49 Harbor Fright POJ.,, but as a novice i need ALL THE HELP HE CAN GET!!

http://www.small-block-chevy.com/ima...weldHelmet.JPG

that's a huge picture,, try it as a linky dink

[Tom Vogel]

I bought a Digital Performance and added the light

Which light would that be?

[Marv D]

Its a Nitecore
Originally a headlamp for running biking gear or something, I took it apart and mounted it to the hood and tossed the crap I didn't need. They don't sell the 'exact' model any more but I bought a 'package' with 4 batteries, charger, and the lamp. like the link. This light is Insanely bright and has a focus to narrow / wide beam.

Batterys are STUPID expensive individually so try and get one of the amazon 'packages' with spare batteries and smart charger. The new packages are way more expensive ,, new and improved I guess. LOL

I can run the light well beyond any welding project I have on one set of bateries. And light up the WORLD. LOL

[Tom Vogel]

Quote..., I took it apart and mounted it to the hood and tossed the crap I didn't need.

Post up a picture of it on your helmet if it wouldnt be too much trouble.
Thanks, Tom

[Marv D]

You bet
the picture is the link above. it's pretty huge so I just put a link

http://www.small-block-chevy.com/ima...weldHelmet.JPG