Building myself a new shop, what kind of materials do you guys use??

[Mrturner1]

Well, my interest in restoring these trucks and building motors is growing fast, and right now I'm using a 1 or 2 car detached garage, that just won't do anymore. It started with buying my 1970 c10 LWB for an occasional weekend cruise or run to the store in town, and has grown into a hobby that has proven to be very good at gettin me out of my head and focused on something fun while I'm at it. My wife has also recently requested that I build her a 73 K/5 after seeing the work I've done on my C10 lol. A year ago building an engine seemed like brain surgery, and then I made that thread about "identifying what cam I have", and with motivation and help from this site I wound up with a cherry picker and a motor on a stand stripped down and built back up thing is, I need room to sand and paint and do bodywork, and also need a 4 post lift, and a workbench for tools with a welder and air compressor lol.

I'm not set on a size yet, or what it's going to be built with. I kinda wanted to get some ideas and pictures from you guys and go from there. I've been in construction (mostly concrete, little bit of carpentry) for 15 years so I'm capable, just not that creative I suppose. I'm going to pour the foundation with concrete that part I'm sure of. It needs to be 12" thick where the lift will be placed but that's no problem. I've never done anything with metal studs or metal period, but it seems like it might be cheaper? I'm not trying to build some kind of high dollar legit mechanics workshop, just enough room to do the things I want to do and a little room to spare (you know, to fill with other stuff I really need)

Please share pics and stories of you shop or garage build so I can get an idea of what I'm in for, thanks guys

Matt

[GR8-68]

I have not built mine yet it is still in the planning stage, I am planning on doing a wood floor in mine though 2x12's 12" on center. I am doing all conventional lumber, also I am doing a 12' ceiling for good clearance for the use of any lifts plus I already have my garage doors which I took out of the house when we converted the garage to living space. So I have two doors which are 9' wide by 11' tall, you always want more than enough. But also all of this is also contingent on your budget of course. But if you are wanting to attempt two restores in one building I would suggest a minimum of a 36' wide by 40' deep. I am planning a 28' x 36' for mine. As far as metal studs I just prefer wood over metal myself, it is just easier to put up shelving inside and easier to put your sheeting and all up. It works great for commercial.

[68350]

I have a 32x48 stick built garage and a 24x24 attached to the house. I am planning on going 40x80 steel building for my next one. For 2 cars torn down, my 32x48 is plenty big. But there probably wont be a lot of other room once youre working on 2 vehicles in it. I have 4 in mine and there isn't really any room to do anything in it other than walk around. I would say build the biggest you can, because you'll always use the space

[mongocanfly]

Rule of thumb...How ever big it will be ,it will never be big enough..that's the way it works around here..I've got a 35x50 with a 2 post lift and a 30x30 on the end of it and a 20x40 side shed on the back and I'm still having to add another 25x50 pole shed out back..just to get everthing under a roof..

[Mrturner1]

Originally Posted by 68350

I have a 32x48 stick built garage and a 24x24 attached to the house. I am planning on going 40x80 steel building for my next one. For 2 cars torn down, my 32x48 is plenty big. But there probably wont be a lot of other room once youre working on 2 vehicles in it. I have 4 in mine and there isn't really any room to do anything in it other than walk around. I would say build the biggest you can, because you'll always use the space

If you don't mind me asking, how much was the stick built 32x48 garage when it was all said and done?

[GR8-68]

A very basic way to estimate the cost of building a detached garage is to simply apply a typical average per square foot construction of $30 to $40. That is for an average cost basis for having a contractor / builder build a basic one story garage for you.

Of course if you build it yourself that cost per square foot will lower. Other factors o cost are determined by which materials you choose for your walls and roof and of course if you decide you want the inside finished out you have that cost to figure in as well. The basics of building it can be done rather cost effectively especially if you can do the work yourself.

[special-K]

Your first decision to make is continuous footer w/masonry (block or concrete) foundation or pole construction (piers w/poles). With the first choice you can either go stick-built or post & beam. Pole building is post & beam.

Your cheapest and simplest choice will be pole building. You aren't concerned with cold weather where you are, so that would work well for you. A continuous footer w/stick-built will be your better way to build a well insulated structure and to match the architecture of your house. With a pole building you can use minimal lumber and cover walls with sheet metal or stud up, sheath, and siding. You can use a sheet metal color that goes well with your house and even doll it up a little.

[68C15]

what I would do is go to Menard's and talk to the guys at the lumber desk. Go on a weekday when they have time to chat. Tell them what your needs are and they will give you some ideas. They have kits of all kinds and sizes and know local codes

[zach_carver]

Im fixing to go thru this exact same thing myself.. Im wanting about a 30x40 with high enough ceilings for 2 two post lifts. The guy thats building my house says he can build it out of wood and side it just like my house cheaper than I could build a metal one he thinks. Still unsure how big to go though. Wife says it cant be bigger than the house lol

[nibulus]

My garage was built like this.

That's neither my cellar nor my site, but it was built exactly like that with a 10 cm (~4 inch) insulation on the outside.

The foundation/ceiling is also insulated to keep the cold outside (as far as possible).

IIRC, the foundation had also 4" insulation (on prepared gravel), then 20 cm (roughly 8 inches) high-quality concrete poured on steel mesh.

There are certainly cheaper ways to dot it, but it works. So far I'm very happy with it (although I wish I had more time to use the garage, though...)

[Cashed]

i built a 30x48x14 steel shop with a 24x48 carport this past fall. It has been the single best investment I've ever made. Like you, my car passion way outgrew my 2 car garage. But like others have said, it's never big enough. With more space comes more tools and toys. I have my shop pretty full already and I haven't even bought my 2 post lift yet.

a great addition was a 10x10 mezzanine in one corner. It has allowed me to store spare parts and junk I don't use very often up and out of the way.

Good luck with whatever you decide. But forewarn your wife that as soon as it is built, you'll probably spend more time out there than in the house. I had my builder plumb my shop for a sink and toilet because I'm afraid I will end up living in mine!

[nibulus]

Originally Posted by Cashed

... I had my builder plumb my shop for a sink and toilet because I'm afraid I will end up living in mine!

A very good point!

Apart from a sink/toilet, I also installed LOADS of regular and high-voltage power outlets. I think I have an outlet every 13 feet or so... I hate cable extensions!

Speaking of extensions, also make a good plan where you need compressed-air and where your compressor should be located (not only functionally, but also to minimize noise).

...and for a paint booth you might need some ventilation too. And a drainage if you should/want to wash (or spill) something.

To sum it up: just think of any eventuality, prepare/build the garage accordingly and you'll be all good. At least for a while.

[Cashed]

Yes, thinking ahead about what equipment you might need it how you may use the shop in the future is a great suggestion. and you'll never have too many outlets or hookups for your air hose.

[Grumpy old man]

Whoever you have build it watch the cash outlay, we paid my brother in law (a contractor ) up front last year when he was slow and I'm still looking at a bare spot of ground where my new 30x60 building is supposed to be ! Lets just say it makes for heated conversation at family get togethers . I'm about to start parking old trucks in his living room ! A little chainsaw work and a few 4x6's for a ramp and I'm sure they'll fit just right !

My girl says don't worry he'll get to it , he's just real busy right now ......He wasn't busy when he took my money !

[special-K]

Yeah, never pay in full before completion. In Maryland we can take a 33% deposit upon signing a contract. But, if I stock some materials, set up equipment, or commence any wok before signing I can ask for more, like 50%. I'll do that on a bigger job that's heavy on the materials. It works both ways, I don't want to get stuck paying for someone's materials. Normally I do 1/3 down, 1/3 at 50% complete (always clearly defined), balance upon completion. I give actual amount in parenthesis after each draw. I go heavy on materials, other costs, and light in my pocket through the first two draws. I try to have little to no expenses from my final draw.
At 50% down I get 30% at halfway, so 20% is owed at end. It works out best for everyone. The homeowner never puts more than 1/3 out into the wind and if they are seeing me they are seeing that money spent.

Anyone building one where it gets cold enough to need heat, do yourself a favor and run heat in the slab. If you can heat with wood, an outside wood burner can do the trick for your shop and house. A privy is about a must in a proper shop

[NorCalC20LWB]

Mr. Turner, at the risk of sounding "preachy", in reading your previous entertaining and informative thread about your engine build adventure I believe you said you are renting your property at this time? If so, are you sure you want to make a capital improvement on someone else's property? Whichever way you go it won't be cheap, and when you move on from your current situation you obviously can't take your building with you. Apologies if I am out of line, but I sure have made some financial decisions in the past that I now regret...heat of the moment and all that. All that being said, if ya got the $$$ and it makes you happy, there are worse ways you can spend it...as in right up the hill in Reno!

[mongocanfly]

I know location will affect cost but a buddy of mine just completed a 40x50 all metal pole type building, 12ft walls,on concrete..he paid his builder 50% up front and the rest when completed..he's got 2 12x12 rollup doors and a pedestrian door and 4 windows, he upgraded his insulation to a better grade and I think he came in around 32gs on his..comes in at $16 square foot..mine is stick frame 35x50 with 30x30 on the end and I think I came in at around $7.50 per square ft about 14 yrs ago..I built mine myself..

[Mrturner1]

Originally Posted by Grumpy old man

Whoever you have build it watch the cash outlay, we paid my brother in law (a contractor ) up front last year when he was slow and I'm still looking at a bare spot of ground where my new 30x60 building is supposed to be ! Lets just say it makes for heated conversation at family get togethers . I'm about to start parking old trucks in his living room ! A little chainsaw work and a few 4x6's for a ramp and I'm sure they'll fit just right !

My girl says don't worry he'll get to it , he's just real busy right now ......He wasn't busy when he took my money !

I would never hear the end of it if I hired somebody lol I've been in construction my whole life and my dad and uncles as well, and it would be an immediate man card suspension of at least a year. Maybe I'll drive my C10 out there and get started on yours, you can pay me in Heineken haha

[Grumpy old man]

The one thing there is NO SHORTAGE of around here is Heinken !

[davischevy]

The shop I keep my cars in is 50x60 and it gets crowded sometimes.

I like to wash my floors and squeegee them dry so I try to keep everything on some sort of caster so I can move things around. I can't stand things sitting on the floor. In the pictures you can see I have CMU's (concrete blocks) all around the lower part of the walls so I can wet things down.

I put light on the walls where I thought I might have a lift.

With your background in construction you should probably get prices on a red iron building. We have several steel building manufacturers around here and I'm sure you do there. Assembly is a piece of cake compared to pouring concrete.

[_Ogre]

imo, if you know concrete and construction the fastest, most economical and easiest to finish will be stick built
in your area a slab with thickened edges will probably do fine
stand up 4 walls and throw trusses on and your done with the basic building
2x4 or 2x6 walls are easier to run electricity in and can be insulated and covered as budget allows

no reason to pour 12'' for a hoist, we have 4 hoists on a 6'' slab. this is all the manufacturers recommend
pole barns are great for storage but finishing the electrical, insulation and finished walls take more effort than the original structure
i'm not a pack rat and think storing junk just for the sake of storing junk is a waste of a building
a 30x50 4 stall shop is plenty of space for shop space and parking
my current shop is 50x50 with a 30x50 2nd story. 1/4 of the downstairs is wasted space and the upstairs is completely empty



this is upstairs when i roofed my shop, previous experience showed me if i need to store it upstairs, it goes in the trash

[Tynee]

Ogre, That old Dairy barn is great. I'd love to find something with that kind of character for a shop.

[_Ogre]

it is a great shop, unfortunately ''that kind of character'' comes with 8 ft ceilings

[JWall]

I recently had a 30x50 pole barn style shop built with 12' ceilings.
I had the building constructed and power brought to a breaker box & then took it from there.
So you'd be more knowledgeable about the construction process than me but I will chime in with some stuff I did or learned along the way.

I agree with the statement build it as big as space and/or money allows.
Bigger shop = more crap! You'll think you have room for everything!

Like someone else said a lot of electrical outlets are great!
I have a pole every 10ft on the long side, so I put an outlet on each post. on the back 2 posts I put a 4 gang outlet box on each, since this is the work area. And an outlet on each side of my 2 overhead door in case you need to run something out into the driveway.

I also, put a 4 gang outlet box in the center of the ceiling for extension cord reel, drop lights, etc.

I also put dedicated outlets for the garage door openers (when I get them). I am going shaft drive style so its up high between the overhead doors.
I also ran a separate outlet on a separate breaker for the refrigerator, since it will work hard in the summer.

Don't forget about 220 outlets. I have just one for my compressor for now bu plan to install at least one per long side of the shop for welder, etc.

Lighting is something else to think about. I have 11 8' dual bulb fluorescent fixtures. 5 down the middle of each bay & 1 cross ways above the work area.
I also wired the 2 rows of lights on separate breakers not only to lighten the "load" but that also allows you to run 1/2 the lights while working on the other lights if needed.

Air plumbing is something I haven't really tackled yet, I just have a hose routed to a hose real mounted in the ceiling in the center of the shop for now but would like a more permanently plumbed air system with multiple outlets in the future.

I do not have plumbing in my shop but that sure would be nice.

My shop is insulated so it doesn't get too cold in the winter but gets HOT in summer! I am using 2 large squirrel type exhaust fans to survive this year but am looking into large fans or a porta-cool.

A loft or attic is a good idea too for storage of extra parts etc.

There is always a great debate on what to do for walls as well.
Sheet rock, plywood, OSB, etc.
My plan is for OSB painted a light color since its durable, easily removable for access behind it if screwed up & easy to mount anything to it anywhere.

Here is a thread with some pics of my shop... http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=679324

I think that's all I've got for know... but I may be back to chime in more...

[whitedog76]

No matter what you do. Absolutely DO NOT let any kids bikes, lawn&garden tools, Christmas decorations, or any of your wife's storage tubs in your shop!!!

I just bought a house with a 30x45 shed AND 2 car garage. I'm already thinking of building a shed for the garden tools and kid's stuff.

Chris