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03-19-2004, 01:32 AM
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#1 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Cold, Snowy High Level, Alberta Canada Eh
Posts: 394
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Sourcing a 12 bolt
ok, so its rearend replacemnt time i think. my truck bangs realy bad when i hit the thottle at mid-high rpms, and when i shift it from neutral to park. anyhoo, what is the easiest route to go here? i have all the tools imaginable available to me, and a huge shop to do this in. Should i just find a junkyard 12 bolt? If i do this and the donor vehicle is different, do showckmounts and spring perches need to be fabbed up or anything like that? Or, is it easier to find a ford nine inch? i have welding skill, and about a weekend to do this. Or, should i rebuild this diff? how difficult is a rebuild? I have done engines and trannys, but never a diff. Posi isnt a big deal, it is nice though. Any thoughts and or suggestions are very much welcome. thanx guyz
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2003 yamaha raptor. Stock, but it still hauls!!!! 2000 skiddo mxz 700. Camoplast 1.5 inch track, jaws twin pipes, b+b can, custom built and weighted clutch, wiseco piston, high comp heads. its very fast. wow. 72 c-10 longbox. Bright Orange. Brand new 350, rv cam, performer intake, qjet, headers, 2 1/2 inch exhaust into hooker areo chamber mufflers. Body work coming soon. "dont let yer mind wander, its to little to go places by itself." "Forget the herse, cause i'll never die"-ACDC Back In Black "If It's To Loud, Yer Just Too Old" "I Love Anything Fast Enough To Do Something Stupid In" "Instant idiot, just add beer!!"" |
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03-19-2004, 01:44 AM
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#2 |
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Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 1,234
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Have you checked all the U-joints? If not, suggest you do that first.
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Stepsides look like real trucks! Smitty 
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03-19-2004, 11:42 AM
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#3 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Cold, Snowy High Level, Alberta Canada Eh
Posts: 394
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u-joints are all brande new, its definelty the diff going out., ttt
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2003 yamaha raptor. Stock, but it still hauls!!!! 2000 skiddo mxz 700. Camoplast 1.5 inch track, jaws twin pipes, b+b can, custom built and weighted clutch, wiseco piston, high comp heads. its very fast. wow. 72 c-10 longbox. Bright Orange. Brand new 350, rv cam, performer intake, qjet, headers, 2 1/2 inch exhaust into hooker areo chamber mufflers. Body work coming soon. "dont let yer mind wander, its to little to go places by itself." "Forget the herse, cause i'll never die"-ACDC Back In Black "If It's To Loud, Yer Just Too Old" "I Love Anything Fast Enough To Do Something Stupid In" "Instant idiot, just add beer!!"" |
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03-21-2004, 12:05 AM
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#4 |
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Formerly yellow72custom
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 7,531
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First pop off the cover and see what is up. If a bunch of metal is in the fluid, you know that is the problem.
A junkyard rear is the easiest solution, however i have had bad experiences with (bought a junk one). You can swap out the rear in a day no problem, its pretty easy. Just remove the driveshaft from the yolk, remove the rubber brake line going to the rear from the frame, and unbolt the rear (will proably have to cut the U-bolts if they are original), and it comes right out. Nothing to it. I hope to rebuild my 12-bolt eventually when i have the time/money, check this post i made here: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...&threadid=84975 And this: http://www.drivetrain.com/ringpinioninstal.html
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'72 Chevy C10 Mild 350/TH350/3.07. Ochre/White. Old high school ride. '70 GMC C2500 '62 327 4bbl/SM465/4.56-geared Dana 60. White/White. Project or parts truck. '97 Saturn SL DD. 1.9/5-speed. 40+ highway mpg |
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