67 c10 drive shaft

[JCCAT]

Hi all, I am new to this site and posting my first thread. I am "restoring" a 1967 c10 long bed small window PU and have a problem with the drive shaft. The shaft is in 2 pieces with a carrier bearing in the middle. The "knuckle" just to the rear of the carrier bearing is no good as the u joint was bad cause someone had welded one of the u joint end caps in place vice using a spring clip. After finally getting the u joint off, the knuckle is not usable. The auto parts stores say they don't carry the knuckle but I did find a place that can special order me one for $130. Does anyone know of a cheaper one or can I maybe replace that shaft portion of the same length and then use a "regular" knuckle, assuming the u joints cap diameter is the same as the old? Thanks for any help. NOTE: the engine was replaced with a 350 and it has a turbo 3 speed automatic transmission. I don't know if the rear end and drive shafts are original or not.

[brad_man_72]

I don't know what knuckle you are talking about. Is it the bolt on yoke or the weld on yoke. Either way powertrain industries in springfield mo can get you back on the road. The shaft needs to go to a driveline shop to be rebalanced as an assembly anyway, why not have one shop do all of the work right.

[LongBox]

I don't know if this has been done or even discussed, but the GMT 400 series trucks (88-98) have a one-piece aluminum driveshaft. It is quite a large diameter piece, so it might not fit, but if it can be made to work, it gets rid of the center bearing, and probably saves some weight, as it's made out of aluminum.

Someone with more knowledge than me will chime in on this I hope.

[GR8-68]

What part of North Carolina are you in ? There is Oliver drive shafts in Winston Salem that could fix you up. Welcome to the forum also, enjoy all the wisdom you find on here

[JCCAT]

Thanks for the replies. I should have said yoke vice knuckle to be more clear and it is the bolt on piece. I found one online for $90 and it should arrive tomorrow. I'm not much of a car guy so I am struggling with this build. Does this shaft assembly really need to be balanced? This is only going to be my daily driver and "prep mobile". Nothing over 65 mph and no racing.

[brad_man_72]

yes it really has to be balanced every time something is worked on. These and 60s gm cars with the same style light duty carrier bearings will not last without being properly balanced as an assembly.

Large diameter aluminum shafts won't work with the trailing arm cross member, 3.5" is the largest safe diameter. However many times a one piece shaft can work depending on application.

I've built a couple of thousand drive shafts. Rebuilt dozens of gm shafts with the ld carrier bearing. And a quick search of this forum for driveshaft problems or ANOTHER broken carrier bearing bracket will have threads that end with having the driveshaft balanced.

[JCCAT]

OK, you convinced me, now to find a place near me......