Selling the truck out of state, need some advice

[canonball]

Hey guys, I'm selling my '63 and have a guy in FL interested in buying it. Anyone have some info on the typical procedures for that? I'm assuming I fill out my part of the title transfer and send it to him to fill out the rest, along with a bill of sale, but is that it? He's taking care of the transport to get it down there. I was reading that some DMV offices in certain states have slight different regulations and possibly fees to bring a vehicle from one state to another. This is a new process for me so I'm just trying to avoid a legal headache for me or the potential buyer, any info would be awesome!

[TheCougarine]

I've sold quite a few cars out of state. All you should have to do is fill out your side of the title and I'd write him a bill of sale as well for good measure. I'm not sure if Florida needs them or not for a private sale. I know we don't need them here but as you said States are different. I've sent two trucks to Florida and I've never had any problems.

[HugoV]

Title and bill of sale on your end. Also, don't forget to jump online and report you sold the truck to him. Is the truck up in CL?

[cg285]

florida doesn't need a bill of sale. i always get one though. some states require notary stamp, some years of titles require a notary stamp (older florida titles did-newer ones not). check with your local dmv to see if they have a form releasing you from liability until the title is transferred. technically you are liable if the title is in your name

[patrickk1]

While Florida does not require a Bill Of Sale (since the Title contains all the exact same information), I always did two copies of the bill of sale with both signatures, one for him and one for me.

[oem4me]

Let him do some homework in Florida to cover his own registration needs, and I would cover your own behind by each getting a signed copy of a sales agreement stating the truck is sold "as-is, where is", and that no part of the sale is dependent upon any transportation or Florida registration issues.

[cg285]

i just googled and got the wash st dmv that show there is a "report of sale" on your title that you fill out and send in immediately to release your liability

[Mathew21]

Just curious how is he paying you for the truck?

[canonball]

Yeah I sold a motorcycle last year and did a bill of sale in addition to the report of sale on the title just for good measure. I've bought and sold vehicles in FL before when I used to live there but never from out of state so I'm not familiar with policies for that. I just want to make sure it's a smooth transaction and we don't run into any hiccups on either end.

HugoV - Yeah it's on CL and also on Hemmings

Mathew21 - We haven't exactly figured it out yet but we've discussed wire transfer, paypal, and a couple other options.

I think he locked down a transport so we're going to nail down details for title transfer, bill of sale, payment, etc. I really appreciate the input guys, I'll let you know how it goes!

[jocko]

Bill of Sale and Report of Sale are two different things. BOS is a transactional document that gives the holder(s) a record of the money exchanged. ROS releases you of any liability incurred by the buyer immediately after the sale (i.e. If he plows into kids at a bus stop as he leaves your house and drives off and the only info anyone has is your truck's description or tag (state dependent).

[Mathew21]

Originally Posted by canonball

Mathew21 - We haven't exactly figured it out yet but we've discussed wire transfer, paypal, and a couple other options.

I have bought and sold a few vehicles out of state. I always do a bank to bank wire transfer. I think that's the safest for the seller. I would not do Paypal for for the simple reason the buy can dispute the transaction after the fact and cause a headache for you.

[Clyde65]

Agreed Mathew21

['63GENIII]

Agreed on the wire transfer.
Years back, we sold our 21 window Bus to a guy in the U.K. I, being ever paranoid that it was some Nigerian scam opened a separate bank account to receive the wire transfer from the buyer. Took a few days to go through but did so without a hitch. We sent him a scanned BOS, and scanned copy of the signed title. He was pretty agreeable to give us his info so we could fill out the Release of Interest form as well.
The only hitch that we encountered was that the transport / shipping company also received the signed off title when they picked up the Bus. My understanding was that they wanted to CYA themselves against transporting possible stolen vehicles.
All in all it went off without any issues.

[Softpatch]

I just did it to PA from seattle
.

.
sent lots and lost of pictures via text /email
video, and agree on price
done it before... from seattle to ARK
seller ask about shipper I helped said I used XYZ shipping
and buyer called XYZ shipping $950 7-10 days (2800 + miles)


sent picture and Vin on car/ title
the buyer sent me a cashier check
.
.

.
I cashed the check then sign the title with bill of sale dated it and sent it First class mail gave the seller a picture of the USPS receipt with the shipping number on it
.
.

.

.
.
4 days later the shipper called all the time keeping the buy in the loop via text with pictures
.
shipper and I set a time for pick up ...met with shipper sign shippers papers
sent pictures of transactions
.

.


.
.
7 day later the buyer sent me picture of car delivery
smooth
.

.

[canonball]

Thanks for all the info guys! We did a wire transfer, overnighted the title and bill of sale, and as of last night is on a truck headed to its new owner. Really appreciate all the advice!

[patrickk1]

Just an FYI.... People fake cashiers checks on a regular basis. If Fake, the banks might not figure it out until 5-7 days after you deposit it. I usually tell people that I require 7days before I'll ship the vehicle or send the title (to allow the check to clear). The other option is to make them draw the cashiers check from a major bank chain and then call the 1-800 number from the banks website (not off the check) to verify the check and total check amount is valid.

[cg285]

Originally Posted by patrickk1

Just an FYI.... People fake cashiers checks on a regular basis. If Fake, the banks might not figure it out until 5-7 days after you deposit it. I usually tell people that I require 7days before I'll ship the vehicle or send the title (to allow the check to clear). The other option is to make them draw the cashiers check from a major bank chain and then call the 1-800 number from the banks website (not off the check) to verify the check and total check amount is valid.

that's correct

[chevy_mike]

Originally Posted by patrickk1

Just an FYI.... People fake cashiers checks on a regular basis. If Fake, the banks might not figure it out until 5-7 days after you deposit it. I usually tell people that I require 7days before I'll ship the vehicle or send the title (to allow the check to clear). The other option is to make them draw the cashiers check from a major bank chain and then call the 1-800 number from the banks website (not off the check) to verify the check and total check amount is valid.

Yep, I made sure I tell the buyer that cashier checks will require a 14 day hold before releasing vehicle or paperwork. If they are not agreeable to that, I don't want their business. Always protect yourself!

[plastercracker]

i bought a truck in nc. i sent him a cashier check then u ship picked it up with a signed and notarized title. i titled it in pa no problem. i would suggest getting it notarized to be sure buyer has no problem

[bpmcgee]

Beware that giving your account information for wire transfers is very risky as well -- you're giving them all the information they need to wire money OUT of your account too.

When I recently completed a vehicle sale remotely, I set up a checking account specifically for the wire transfer to come in to, then transferred the money to my main account, and immediately closed the temporary one. That way the seller no longer has a valid account to use if they are trying to do something underhanded.

At least with Chase (which is my bank), all that's required to set up an account is 10 minutes of time on their website.

And let me reiterate what the others are saying about the Notification of Sale. You can read horror stories every day about people who buy vehicles, never register them, and leave the previous owner with thousands of dollars of tolls, parking violations, and towing fees.

B

[Softpatch]

Originally Posted by patrickk1

Just an FYI.... People fake cashiers checks on a regular basis. If Fake, the banks might not figure it out until 5-7 days after you deposit it. I usually tell people that I require 7days before I'll ship the vehicle or send the title (to allow the check to clear). The other option is to make them draw the cashiers check from a major bank chain and then call the 1-800 number from the banks website (not off the check) to verify the check and total check amount is valid.

.
.
This is true.!......
and
That is why
When I went to my bank branch to( Cash) the Cashier Check(Not Deposit)
They made me wait while they verifie the check was Genuine.

If they can't verifie The cashiers check The bank probably wouldnot cash it
and if they cash it without verification it's on them not you.!

And if they say they have to deposite it
Then you notifie the buyer and let him know theres a hold on the check once it clears you'll send The title and bill of sale
.
.

Originally Posted by Softpatch

I just did it to PA from seattle
sent picture and Vin on car/ title
the buyer sent me a cashier check
.
I cashed the check then sign the title with bill of sale dated it and sent it First class mail gave the seller a picture of the USPS receipt with the shipping number on it
.

.

.
.

Originally Posted by canonball

Thanks for all the info guys! We did a wire transfer, overnighted the title and bill of sale, and as of last night is on a truck headed to its new owner. Really appreciate all the advice!

.
.
Glad to hear it was happy ending
.

.
..................Sp
.
.
.
.
.

.