lowwering & narrowing a cross member

[TooMany2count]

using a 87 burb frame under a project & wanted to know if anyone can notch & narrow a front X-member for me???? any help would be great...thanks...joe

[Captkaos]

I can if you give me the dimensions and send the crossmember. Why are you wanting to narrow it though?

[TooMany2count]

have been told that using a late model frame like I'm using under my 48 panel/school bus that the wheels will stick out, thats why I want it narrowed & I want it notched so it will be dropped w/o using dropped spindles & shortened springs. I have seen the cross member notched before so the trucks are lowwer w/o those things... so whats your take on this & didn't you notch a X-member too????.. thanks...joe

[SCOTI]

What are you going to do about the steering if you shorten the crossmember (since now all steering input points are moved in as well)?

If you say 'switch to a rack', why not just use a MII based kit w/a narrower track width as it is?

[TooMany2count]

What are you going to do about the steering if you shorten the crossmember (since now all steering input points are moved in as well)?

this maybe true BUT since I only want a total of 4 inches remove this wont cause a problem, since there's lots of adjustment on everything w/threads & if I still need more removed then I'll have the center link shortened or go on a search at the bone yard & the parts store & see what I can come up with..

If you say 'switch to a rack', why not just use a MII based kit w/a narrower track width as it is?

cause the stock frame is GONE & was wayyyyyyyyyyy to heavy for a M2 to use it, got to remember this is a 3800 series panel truck & it will be used for not only cruz'n but also for hauling a trailor........joe

[SCOTI]

Originally posted by SCOTI
.... why not just use a MII based kit...

I didn't say MII, I said MII based.... as in HD but using MII geometry. No Limit, Jim Meyer, RB's Obsolete all offer HD MII based suspensions (RB's offers one based on B-body caprice stuff).

[TooMany2count]

I know those folks make great kits, but for what I need it would cost me over $2500 for just about everything & since we are a basicly one income family that would be making things a tad tight & would take a while to save the $$$$$$$. So i bought the 87 Burb w/a low mileage 350/700r4 combo, the body is rusted out but it runs great. I figger I'd use the 87 frame & other stuff then sell a few parts cheap enuff to help recoup the cost of the truck. That way everyones happy, people get good parts cheap & I get to recoup some of my $$$$$$$$$$ and that makes everyone happy.....joe

[Captkaos]

Yes I have notched a couple of them. It is posted on my site in the how to section. The problem is, you want to narrow the crossmember, but what are you going to do about the frame? It will still be the full width.

Have you though about using an extra 2" of backspacing on the rims?

[TooMany2count]

Originally posted by Captkaos
Yes I have notched a couple of them. It is posted on my site in the how to section. The problem is, you want to narrow the crossmember, but what are you going to do about the frame? It will still be the full width.

Have you though about using an extra 2" of backspacing on the rims?

hell there's about 2inches or more of alignment shims on each side so I figgered it can come out of there & I could use a different back spacing BUT the rims are already about one inch from the tie rod ends & that would mean 6inch rims in the front, unless someone can give me some more hints on what to do here.....joe

[Captkaos]

You need those shims for alignment purposes. It will only change the location of the UPPER control arm. The lower has no adjustments.

My suggestion is if the old truck is still mobile and has a frontend under it, measure the track (wheel mounting face to wheel mounting face) and compare it to the Burb setup.

The Burb most likely has 8" rims with 4" of backspacing, you could technically go with 8" rims with 6" of backspacing, BUT, I would start at the measuring point.

As for the cost, think about it this way this is what steers, brakes, suspends etc the truck. It isn't anything you want to cut corners on.

[TooMany2count]

Originally posted by Captkaos
You need those shims for alignment purposes. It will only change the location of the UPPER control arm. The lower has no adjustments. yes I know that, but if you narrow the X-member you should still be able to align it as long as you dont take out toooo much

My suggestion is if the old truck is still mobile and has a frontend under it, measure the track (wheel mounting face to wheel mounting face) and compare it to the Burb setup. stock frame is gone & even if I did have it the was NO front suspension

The Burb most likely has 8" rims with 4" of backspacing, you could technically go with 8" rims with 6" of backspacing, BUT, I would start at the measuring point.have to double check this

As for the cost, think about it this way this is what steers, brakes, suspends etc the truck. It isn't anything you want to cut corners on.

not cutting corners, thats why I ask LOTSSSSSSSSS of Questions before I do anything, hell maybe I'll either widen the fenders or just find some 1 1/2 - 2 ton truck fenders & hood, cause if I'm not mistaken they are wider then the 1/2 - 1ton fenders

[Captkaos]

Originally posted by TooMany2count
not cutting corners, thats why I ask LOTSSSSSSSSS of Questions before I do anything, hell maybe I'll either widen the fenders or just find some 1 1/2 - 2 ton truck fenders & hood, cause if I'm not mistaken they are wider then the 1/2 - 1ton fenders

You need those shims for alignment purposes. It will only change the location of the UPPER control arm. The lower has no adjustments. yes I know that, but if you narrow the X-member you should still be able to align it as long as you dont take out toooo much

You took that cutting cost thing wrong I believe, but I think you knew what I was trying to say..

As for narrowing the crossmember. THIS is where the problem is. If you narrow it (which is definitly possible) you Cannot use the burb frame because the crossmember won't bolt back up.