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11-29-2016, 10:00 PM | #1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Gallatin TN
Posts: 376
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Cowl Vent, rust, and assorted questions?
Ok guys, I'm new here so be gentle. I have a '70 C10 that I'm building as a '68 slant nose. Any issues with sealing the vents on the inside, using POR 15 inside the airbox, and then sealing the cowl vent? The drains are open and clean. I've already put a floor in, fixed the inner kick panels, lower door pillars, rear corners, outer rockers.... You get the idea. I was following the rusty air vent thread, but didn't see the problem answer as I intend. Thoughts and advice?
Also, I have a Scott's new frame, and a new LS3 with a 4L60E, and a bunch of other new stuff to go in. Trying to it right. Cab repair is taking forever... Thanks in advance... |
11-29-2016, 10:19 PM | #2 |
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Spanaway
Posts: 8,451
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Re: Cowl Vent, rust, and assorted questions?
Poor 15 should be fine for surface rust but you still want to repair any badly rusted areas inside the cowl first, be sure to prime, seam sealer, then paint.
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Mike. Swamp Rat build thread : http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=595019 72 3/4T 4X4 4" BDS Lift 33" BFG's |
11-29-2016, 10:27 PM | #3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Gallatin TN
Posts: 376
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Re: Cowl Vent, rust, and assorted questions?
I sandblasted the cab, and removed all the rust. There was pin hole rust-thru on the outer, lower side of the air box that was removed, then made sure the drain was open, and painted everything I could reach inside with POR 15. I re-welded the metal, and have it in wash primer first, doing the smoothing and then will prime and seal before paint. I am hoping I won't get enough water around the sealed cowl that will not run down and out the drains, and I can just weld up the actual vent openings to the inside???? If I can figure out how, I'll post pictures of the repair...
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11-29-2016, 11:19 PM | #4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Belews Creek , NC
Posts: 4,220
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Re: Cowl Vent, rust, and assorted questions?
I just removed my cowl tonight read my build for my 68, I posted pics of the cowl removed, after all this work there is no way I felt good about not getting under there to fix any blind issues. It is not that hard to remove with a good spot cutter.
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Larry It is easily overlooked that what is now called vintage was once brand new. "Project 68" paypal.me/ldgrant Last edited by GR8-68; 11-30-2016 at 05:39 AM. |
11-29-2016, 11:20 PM | #5 |
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Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Portland Oregon
Posts: 11,290
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Re: Cowl Vent, rust, and assorted questions?
I did a similar thing on my Burban. I bought a undercoating sprayer with a flexible wand and sprayed everywhere I could get to. I even drilled access holes I could plug later with the factory style plugs. I figure anything I can cover with Por15 now is better in the long run. If you want more information on what I did you can check out my "Working Man's Burban" thread in the 67-72 Suburban section.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=698377 Good luck and be safe when you're painting in confined spaces.
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Thanks to Bob and Jeanie and everyone else at Superior Performance for all their great help. RIP Bob Parks. 1967 Burban (the WMB),1988 S10 Blazer (the Stink10 II),1969 GTO (the Goat), 1970 Javelin, 1952 F2 Ford OHC six 4X4, 29 Model A, 72 Firebird (the DBP Bird). 85 Alfa Romeo If it breaks I didn't want it in the first place The WMB repair thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=698377 |
12-05-2016, 02:08 PM | #6 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Gallatin TN
Posts: 376
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Re: Cowl Vent, rust, and assorted questions?
I believe, I can get a picture to post now.... If anybody is watching... I'll have to figure out how to get the work in order like others have done. I did seal the inner vents (welded them up actually) and will cover them when I do the interior...
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