S10 Swap how to

[99 to Life]

put a level on your rocker and see where you are at. the front of the s10 frame drops a little so leveling your mounts won't level your cab. I make my mounts out of 4x4 tubing once I get the height I'm after I then weld the extra supports on the mounts that sit on top of frame. Most the cab mount designs on here incorporate the extra support that sits on top of frame. Problem with that is, you have no adjustability up or down.

[HUSSEY]

Originally Posted by frankist

Quick question -
Ive got the cab on the frame and it looks great, but am wondering if the bottom line of the cab should run parallel with the frame? It looks raked to me by about 2 inches too tall on the rear.

Hope this doesn't come out sounding condescending, just trying to give some constructive advice, but I think 99_to_Lifes post in 525 kind of eludes to the perils of blindly following what others have done and not planning out how it's going to work for you.

I don't think you're going to want your cab raked on your frame. That two inches to tall and the back of the cab will end up being 6 inches to tall at the back of the bed. Personally, I think the floor of the cab should sit level with the frame. Hopefully you just have the mounts tacked on. I'd cut them and and adjust.

[HUSSEY]

Originally Posted by frankist

Quick question -
If anyone has a picture of their cab on frame it would be very appreciative. Or if someone can check on their finished build whether or not the cab rest on a parallel line with respect to the frame. Thanks guys.

I'd like to share the mount design and dimensions I came up with. I put these together with advice I got from other builders on this forum (jeffs51chevy, av8tr33337 aka Bartman, 99toLife, and Skymangs) They're made primarily from 4x4 in. 11 GA tubing.

The front mount is placed 2 in. behind the oval hole on the frame, I can thank Bartman for that: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cdgYy5YtW8k.

The center to center distance between the front and rear mounts on mine is 36-1/4 in.

I'm running 2 in. drop spindles on the front and 2 in. drop blocks in the back (started with 3 in. blocks but ended up with 2 in. blocks). That puts my running boards nearly level with a slight rake, about 1/2 in. to the rear. The front bumper sits 5-1/2 in. from the ground. Having driven it around I think that it is as low as I would want to go with a static drop.

With these swaps, getting the cab placed properly is critical. Once you know you've got the cab where you want it, getting the front clip, bed, and running boards in place is easy since they are placed off the cab.

There is no need to shell out $1,000+ for a conversion kit that really doesn't get you that far when this will get you the same distance for $100 or so in materials.





Downloadable PDFs which are a bit clearer are available at the following links:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B29...ew?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B29...ew?usp=sharing









From the top of the frame to the bottom of the cab floor support measures 4 in.





I ran an 11 GA 2x1 rectangular tubing between the two rear cab mounts and bolted to the bottom of the floor.











Of course more pics are in my build thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=664837

[frankist]

Thanks for the replies guys. Will have my cab leveled on the rocker and make the final judgement.

[99 to Life]

hussey, great blueprints and pics. you make it too easy for some guys! I 100% agree with taking a little bit of time and material and making your mounts. No need to shell out money for a kit. Unless it is completely adjustable and well under 1k I think its a waste.

[reaper71]

You got that right!
when I was putting the floors etc. back in "Orangepeel" I damn near made everything from mounts,braces,floor pans etc. because I could, rather than buy it.
Just remember it's "only time" It's cheaper than paying a Grand for mounts that you can build yourself plus the satisfaction of making them!

Nice job BTW!!

Mark..

[99 to Life]

Edited by Forum Staff
Just cleaning up unnecessary comments.

[joedoh]

mounting the body is only about 15% of the work. the 85% left takes determination and critical thinking. these are very easy to start and very hard to finish!

[T-P Auto]

Edited by Forum Staff
Just cleaning up unnecessary comments.

[CoreyH]

Question...I've got a 48 I'm building. When I bought the cab the previous owner cut the whole floor out. I just got the cab sandblasted and about ready to start putting new cab corners and rockers on it. Toeboard is shot, so I'll replace that with 18 gauge sheetmetal. Still looking for an S-10 for my project, but I've got a 5.3 ls that I built for one of my other vehicles but decided I'm going to put it in this truck instead. Hoping to find a late 80s model S-10 so I can use the 700r4 transmission. I want to build my own floor, but does anyone know with this setup if I need a transmission hump in the floor? I'd like to keep it as flat as possible. Just want to know if I should wait to do the floor until I've got my frame and motor/transmission in place or if I can go ahead and build the cab so it's done.

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by CoreyH

Question...I've got a 48 I'm building. When I bought the cab the previous owner cut the whole floor out. I just got the cab sandblasted and about ready to start putting new cab corners and rockers on it. Toeboard is shot, so I'll replace that with 18 gauge sheetmetal. Still looking for an S-10 for my project, but I've got a 5.3 ls that I built for one of my other vehicles but decided I'm going to put it in this truck instead. Hoping to find a late 80s model S-10 so I can use the 700r4 transmission. I want to build my own floor, but does anyone know with this setup if I need a transmission hump in the floor? I'd like to keep it as flat as possible. Just want to know if I should wait to do the floor until I've got my frame and motor/transmission in place or if I can go ahead and build the cab so it's done.

there are so many different ways to set up the engine/trans mounts and body mounts that I would at least wait to build the tunnel. a good example is husseys truck, the mounts on his truck and mine were roughly the same height but he needed a much larger trans tunnel than I did.

[CoreyH]

Originally Posted by joedoh

there are so many different ways to set up the engine/trans mounts and body mounts that I would at least wait to build the tunnel. a good example is husseys truck, the mounts on his truck and mine were roughly the same height but he needed a much larger trans tunnel than I did.

I was thinking I would just wait. I plan on getting the engine mount bracket from code504.com, supposed to move the engine back 5" I believe. Just wanted to have the cab done before I set it on the frame, but then I want it to line up and fit good too. I'll just wait, now that I think about it, don't want to keep moving the cab off and on the frame! Thanks

[99 to Life]

Edited by Forum Staff
Just cleaning up unnecessary comments.

[CoreyH]

Edited by Forum Staff
Just cleaning up unnecessary comments.

[Clay54]

Originally Posted by skymangs

I've been asked lots of questions about how I get these S10 swaps done so quickly, and how to do "x" or "y"... I want to start this thread detailing as much as I can on the nuts and bolts of S10 frame swaps, parts lists, pics, and any other frequently asked questions out there. To start this off, there are basically three options I see as easily attainable for an S10 frame swap. Keep the stock 4.3L, go small block, or go LS1. I will start off with small block parts, as these are by far the most popular conversion.

What you'll need:
-47-54 Chevy pickup with bed, fenders, hood, core support
-S10 chassis (117" w.b. long bed short cab) If you can, score the brake pedal, master/booster assembly and power steering box.
-Engine/trans combo of choice

This is enough to start your project, but there is a short laundry list of other parts that will make your swap a LOT easier!

IMPO skymangs (Chris) never had any intent of this thread being considered a"kit". He is sharing his love of what he does with anyone who has access to this forum. This is a thread with info for guys like me to build a truck without buying a mega bucks kit. I like to think of this as making a pan of cornbread. You can use your grandmothers recipe that was handed down generations or you can buy a box of mix at the local grocery store. Following the information provided by either, you get a delicious pan of cornbread that you can be proud of.

My point, if you want to buy a kit, go buy it and build your truck with pride. Just don't confuse this thread in anyway of being a kit. Clay

[T-P Auto]

Hello;

Thanks Clay 54;

If you need information to build a truch then use that information.
If you just want a kit truck then just have someone build you one out of kit on line.
Most or us on this blog enjoy working with our hand to build something we can call our own.

T-P Auto

Tim

[99 to Life]

Edited by Forum Staff
Just cleaning up unnecessary comments.

[CoreyH]

Edited by Forum Staff
Just cleaning up unnecessary comments.

[63 & 64 Bowties]

Please, let's don't ruin this excellent thread with bickering.
Now, back to the builds, okay?

[frankist]

Got my cab situated, level rockers/cab floor seems perfect. Thanks for the help guys.

For those using a 5.3 vortec in your build, any suggestions for headers? I'm currently leaning towards stock f body headers that don't have either egr or air injection ports. Motor sits perfectly in this chassis without much modification to the floor of the cab. Would like to know before I start buying multiple headers. ��thanks guys

[CoreyH]

Originally Posted by frankist

Got my cab situated, level rockers/cab floor seems perfect. Thanks for the help guys.

For those using a 5.3 vortec in your build, any suggestions for headers? I'm currently leaning towards stock f body headers that don't have either egr or air injection ports. Motor sits perfectly in this chassis without much modification to the floor of the cab. Would like to know before I start buying multiple headers. ��thanks guys

They make a s-10 v8 conversion header. They sell them on ebay, believe that's even what they're called.

[reaper71]

I have used the Speedway LS block hugger headers on 3 diff. builds and work great # 9300114 $200

Mark

[1stseries]

I'm so glad I found this thread and you've done such a kick ass job posting everything. I just picked up a 98 2wd s-10 for my 55'. I wanna go the route of a 350 with a 700r4. Is this a possible configuration? I'm definitely green behind the ears when it comes to this. So any constructive criticism is encouraged. Thanks again for your hard work!

[skymangs]

Originally Posted by frankist

Got my cab situated, level rockers/cab floor seems perfect. Thanks for the help guys.

For those using a 5.3 vortec in your build, any suggestions for headers? I'm currently leaning towards stock f body headers that don't have either egr or air injection ports. Motor sits perfectly in this chassis much modification to the floor of the cab. Would like to know before I start buying multiple headers. ��thanks guys

a stock f body manifold will clear, if you want to go the header route, I use Hooker cast. They really hug the block. And they only cost about $300

[skymangs]

CoreyH; I would think twice about using that 700R4, in order to realize the benefits of that 5.3, you will need a 4L60E trans.

Thank you Clay, that is why I made this thread. For the DIY guys. If you want to buy a kit, then by all means by a kit. But, don't come to me when it looks like crap. Wanting me to tell you how to fix it.

This thread is for serious builders, who want to build their trucks the right way the 1st time.