Botched C-Notch or OK?

[Montierth]

Two owners before me decided to C-notch the frame and looks like they did a botch job! From the pictures do you think the notches are stable enough or would you install a bolt on c-notch kit over what has already been done? After cleaning up the mess, I'm pretty sure I going to install a kit over the mess.

[truckster]

All I can say is

[randy500]

That is the worst I have ever seen, I wonder what people are thinking when doing stuff like that. Poor workmanship, poor welds and poor design...

[Andy4639]

10-20 years ago that's how it was done. There where no kits back then people did what they had to, to get the truck down low. They boxed the frame where they cut it at least. As far as the weld goes it may not look pretty but it's held up and kept the truck together.
They put the stiffeners behind it also.

[hamjet]

I can't see any strength to it, if you were to jack it at the rear bumper it would probably bend at the area above the c-notch...

[Montierth]

I am hoping that it is not already bent. If it is bent then the cnotch kit probably wont lay very well on the frame.

[AussieinNC]

I believe this is the worst case of butchering a chassis C notch on any truck that I have ever seen.

Apart from the total lack of chassis integrity beginning at the forward most part of the cut, the shocks have been pounded on by the chassis edge, making the shocks most likely ineffective, plus angle is just WRONG.

The "reinforcement" plates someone mentioned is doing zero to strengthen the chassis, as the center of the arch is now simply a flat plate, rather than a C channel section.

I believe the only way to correct this is to recreate the side member of the chassis, down to the limit of the notch kits currently available...the outer edge of the current notch piece will need to be cut back to permit the flush mounting and full perimeter weld of the new notch kit.

Once the new kit is in place, a new fish plate style reinforcement plate should be placed on both inner and outer areas of the notch area.

It may actually be simpler to Z cut a new rear chassis section beginning at center cross member, then perform a standard C notch kit install...
Shock relocation and adjustable track bar as standard needs...

UGH UGH UGH

[67c10rustbuket]

The frame gets its strength from the vertical wall of the C channel. There is absolutely zero vertical wall left and about that much strength... like mentioned above all you have is a flat plate. It wouldn't take much of a load hooked on the rear if the truck to bend that frame. You can plate either side all you want, heck even use 1/2" steel, it won't help one bit.
If the frame is straight the way to fix it in my mind would be to install a large step notch and therefore cutting out the old c notch section once welded in place.

[layinrocker65]

That's unreal!! Hope you get it fixed for driving it again

[kwmech]

If the frame is not already bent, I would leave it the way it is and smooth the outside of the frame and make an outside piece with a radius in it. Then box the inside of the frame with a matching piece. Is that the brake line being held to the frame with zip ties?

[Montierth]

Thanks for all the replies and suggestions. I think the shocks are OK. The angle of the photo is deceiving and the shock is not being hit or binding. I will really have to think this through to reinforce it. It is nuts what you can find on these trucks and what has been done over the years.

Side note. My driver side rocker was replaced and looked good until I took off the front clip and saw they welded on the outer rocker onto rotted front pillar, rear pillar, inner rocker!

[AussieinNC]

Originally Posted by kwmech

If the frame is not already bent, I would leave it the way it is and smooth the outside of the frame and make an outside piece with a radius in it. Then box the inside of the frame with a matching piece. Is that the brake line being held to the frame with zip ties?

I believe that "brake line", is actually the fuel line!

[AussieinNC]

Originally Posted by Montierth

Thanks for all the replies and suggestions. I think the shocks are OK. The angle of the photo is deceiving and the shock is not being hit or binding. I will really have to think this through to reinforce it. It is nuts what you can find on these trucks and what has been done over the years.

Side note. My driver side rocker was replaced and looked good until I took off the front clip and saw they welded on the outer rocker onto rotted front pillar, rear pillar, inner rocker!

The shocks are set at such a huge angle from vertical they would be providing less than 10% of their intended damping action...

I always try and put the shocks as close to vertical as possible...

Is this a short bed or long bed truck?

[jeffahart]

I'm disappointed he didn't notch the axle tubes also. That's the best way to go, notching the axle tubes. You can get super low....

[Montierth]

It is a leaf spring GMC short bed. It would be good to find a photo to see how the shocks should be attached stock and then go from there.

HaHa...Good idea with the notched axle tubes. I could also get 13 inch wheels to go even lower!

Yeah the zip ties were a nice touch. It is the brake line. The fuel tank is in the cab so no fuel to back axle. Although by the way some of the things done on this truck maybe it is the fuel line or the flux capacitor!

[AussieinNC]

For pics of rear shock locations on leaf spring trucks, use the search capability top of the forum page...choose 67-72chevytrucks.com and the search term

leaf spring rear shocks

There are a multitude of pics available...

I would not be too worried about the shocks until after you correct the "mess" and have a new C notch in place...

Then look at options like Porterbuilt or ECE rear cross member to put both shocks behind the axle in a vertical orientation...or build it yourself...its essentially a single tube with flanges to mount the shocks and the ends to the chassis C section...

Depending on your drop, you may need shorter travel shocks...

Also...suggest you re-position that brake tube to maybe the rear shock cross member if you use one...flex ties were never designed for that use...haha

As this is a leaf spring truck, I can almost guarantee that the rear of the springs is not solid, as it will be flexing and moving up and down with the spring loads...not a nice situation at all...

Stay safe mate

[67c10rustbuket]

Originally Posted by jeffahart

I'm disappointed he didn't notch the axle tubes also. That's the best way to go, notching the axle tubes. You can get super low....

I think your on to something. There's another inch of wasted airspace between the axle shaft and housing.