Cab Bracing

[bobbyv]

Just got the cab back (64 c10) from the sand blasters. Need to install front floors, rockers ,cab corners and what ever else I find along the way. I need to brace the cab and was wondering about using re-bar for bracing vs. square tubing. I have access to some heavy re-bar and was looking for some input about using it. Thanks

[BR3W CITY]

Rebar isn't really good for this. Its extremely heavy, and very dirty steel. Square tubing can be mitred and notch to fit into areas flat for tac'ing, and doesn't need to be very large to brace the cab (1/2" sq tube is my personal go-to). Its also "clean" steel so it will weld easily. Rebar's thickness draws heat away and makes it VERY hard to tac in place for bracing.

[61K10]

If you have the frame handy I would bolt the cab back on it like org. Brace the door area. I did my rockers one at a time. took measurements of the door openings all the way around. I didn't brace my door openings but my floors were good. Nothing moved. Just don't cut it all apart at once. good luck.

[timmytimm3]

I used angle iron and braced it like this. I wouldn't use rebar

[pimpston65]

i used square tube and bolted in place, didnt wanna weld then need to cut the welds of course its welded were the clamps are, its just a mockup picture before welding!!!

[Indian113]

I like your idea. Did you put cross bracing in cab?

[bobbyv]

Thanks for all of your ideas. I have the frame being sand blasted. Do you think it is necessary to remount the cab on the frame to do the sheet metal repairs?
Thanks

[pimpston65]

Originally Posted by bobbyv

Thanks for all of your ideas. I have the frame being sand blasted. Do you think it is necessary to remount the cab on the frame to do the sheet metal repairs?
Thanks

i plan to lift the cab off the frame from above to get to the underside between the frame and cab to weld and mockup parts with the frame in the way...

[Vinceg]

Hey bobbyv,
I would re mount the cab to the frame if You could! My cab was in a lot worse shape than I thought it was when I bought the truck. I had never done anything even close to this in the past. I didn’t brace my cab. Big mistake! I had to do inner, outer rockers, front and rear cab supports, A & B lower door Pilar’s, toe kicks, other areas of the floor and firewall and cab corners. It was a big job and I wondered at times what the heck I was doing! My cab sprung on me and was a bit of a job getting it pulled back into shape. It cost me a lot of time and an extra outter rocker. I braced the cab up with angle iron before doing the other side and it was a night and day difference. The other thing I learned was. unless you really need to, use as little of the replacement panels as you can. My first cab corner I did I matched up to the replacement panel and cut it out. It turned out but was much more work than I thought it would be. The other side I only used the bottom two inches of the replacement panel and it worked awesome. If you have more questions There are a lot of knowledgeable guys on here. I learned a lot and unfortunately it was from mistakes I made. I’d be happy to answer any questions to the best of my abilities. Good luck!

[jdl71]

Originally Posted by pimpston65

i used square tube and bolted in place, didnt wanna weld then need to cut the welds of course its welded were the clamps are, its just a mockup picture before welding!!!

I love this. Great idea!

[franken]

According to a person on this site who used to make and sell videos for doing this, unless the whole floor is removed, bracing is unneeded. Depends on what you're doing.
People tend to do what the internet says w/o consideration of what's being done and why.
If its a partial (outer) floor, replace the body to frame mounts, check the frame for squareness, and move on.

[Brad54]

I'm gonna go with Franken on this one.

Here's the thing: Cutting bad metal out is easy, it's fun, and when you're done, you REALLY feel like you accomplished something! And since all that metal has to come out anyway, why not just have at it and get a big check mark in the Win column that day?

But that's the wrong way to go about it.
The correct way is to replace ONE thing at a time, from Start to as close to Finish as possible. Then move on.
If your floors, rockers and cab corners are gone, (outer rockers, we'll assume they aren't rotted completely away all the way into the floor area), I would start with one floor pan. Get it totally installed, and then move on to the rocker. Get it totally installed, then replace the cab corner.
Then do the other side of the cab.

Doing it that way keeps everything in place and it's original position.

-Brad

[rvrfoot]

Everyone will have there own opinion. You can look on here to get your idea. Then do what you think is best for you.

[AngryPirate]

Originally Posted by BR3W CITY

Rebar isn't really good for this. Its extremely heavy, and very dirty steel. Square tubing can be mitred and notch to fit into areas flat for tac'ing, and doesn't need to be very large to brace the cab (1/2" sq tube is my personal go-to). Its also "clean" steel so it will weld easily. Rebar's thickness draws heat away and makes it VERY hard to tac in place for bracing.

What wall gauge on the tubing would you recommend? 14GA? 16GA?

thanks!

[Robert Haas]

We built this frame work and it bolts in to the cab, so it was removable and reusable. (We have a second cab under construction as well)