1968 Rear Cab Mounts

[thegrandiman]

First off, I'm new to the C10 World so thank you for the Add. A lot of impressive trucks on here!

Traded a tired 1999 Dodge Ram for this 1968 C10 CST. It has a rebuilt 400 SBC with the 400 Transmission and 12 bolt rear. It is a driver but needs some work.

Previous owner "fixed" the rear cab mounts. Now the bed and the cab do not line up. It appears the that rear of the cab it up about 1" to 1-1/2" too high.

Since I'm new to thing and I don't have another C10 here to compare things to, can you guys take a look and leave me know what's going on here. I'm a welder by trade, so I can fix it...but need to know what the problem is first. Are the bushings too tall?

Thanks for the help in advance!

Grandi

[novice]

The bushing is too tall and not all is there. You can go to the LMC truck website and view their online catalog and see exactly what you need.

http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/cb/full.aspx?Page=17

[novice]

Oh yeah!

[thegrandiman]

Thank you! By chance do you know what the height is on the correct bushing?

[novice]

I do not right now. I can measure it this evening though.

[thegrandiman]

That would be much appreciated if you don't mind.

[Lanman1972]

If you are going to be crawling around underneath the truck you might as well replace all the cab bushings with correct replacements. Less than $100 for a complete set. Goodluck and welcome!

[Jeff's bowtie's]

Welcome nice truck but the mount is not for these trucks at all and the extra 1/4 inch or so plate under that mount is not required as well

[novice]

Mine is 1-1/2 from cab to perch top.

[thegrandiman]

We'll it appears that the cab was rusted and they put them at galvanized looking piece in there. Guess I won't really know what's going on until I get the bed off and get a better look. I assume the the best way to get back up under there.

Is this rectangle rubber bushing supposed to be there??? Looks out of place and I don't see it pictured in the LMC diagram.

Thanks,

Matt

[hounddogs!]

I bet your PO was using pieces of a 3/4T kit. The square pad isn't stock. No reason to mess with the bed, work from under the door. Here's my 3/4T installation from a month ago - I think my fronts (middle pic) would be comparable to both the front and rear on the 1/2T.
I'm really happy with how this project came out - parts were from https://www.classicparts.com in KC. Like Lanman said, do the full set which includes two radiator mounts.

[In The Ten Ring]

Geeze, what a hack job. SMH.

Brother there are several threads on this, I have one on here somewhere. Use the "search" bar on top right to seek out previous info and pics.

I would give www.classicheartbeat.com a call and buy their kit. The owner will give you advice. You can get a local machine or welding shop to cut out bushings for you.

The one extra mount (the one bolted in is not factory, that is what I'd call a "Bubba job"). I'd remove it.

You also will have to remove your front end and replace the two bushings under the radiator core support to make sure everything sits level.

Go slowly on this, ask lots of questions, we will help you the whole way.

Things you will need:

garage
two wheeled jacks
wood blocks
large C clamp (in case your cab has rotated)
break free (in case cab to frame nuts are stuck)
Dremel Tool (if your front cab bolts are tack welded to cab floor)
two 1/2 inch ratchets and sockets
helper
safety glasses (never get under anything without those on)
and lots of time

Be sure to use lots of break free over a period of days on your nuts to make sure you don't break off a bolt. That would be hard to fix if you broke one.

Cab mounts were riveted in, we'll just have to see what all Bubba did on his hack job.

[thegrandiman]

Thanks for the replies and all of the advice. I'll keep everyone posted on progress once I have time to tear into this.

[67chevemall]

Congratulations on a great trade

I would take all 4 off and get oembrackets and rubber.
That bolt on job is classic. Omg