LS1 into a 73 cheyenne

[mud.man.rj]

Nice change getting rid of the t fitting.
Mudman.

[smokedat]

phone pics of the door rework. it wasn't fun and the day i spread the mudd was hot 100's so between layers i was up and sanding in minutes kinda worked out to my advantage. I used evercoat rage extreme and SEM high build rattle can, because the affected area was so small there was no need to mix a large batch and shoot with gun

[smokedat]

Thanks, il go more in detail when i start this

Originally Posted by mud.man.rj

Nice change getting rid of the t fitting.
Mudman.

[smokedat]

so this is what i came up with to get the lines in the cab. 2 in the frame are the front put in grommets then the 3rd out is the rear. If this dont work out i will do flex lines in this section. for now will try this

[smokedat]

I started piecing together the brake pedal but I need to finalize, then install the 90° brake pedal assembly before i can plumb the in cab lines.

[smokedat]

so the MC came with the necessary adapters but i lost them so i need to order them
wilwood P# 220-5247 3/16-24 X 1/2-20

[smokedat]

so this will be the method i use to wire my TCC Brake switch. Since i will be using the standard 4L60e tranny harness, you only need one wire to tell the PCM when u are stepping on the brake.. blue connector, pin 33.
since i am redoing the brake system from scratch i don't have a brake switch on the pedal i have the pressure activated type on the proportioning valve. I need to run a Standard bosch 5 pin relay.
85 - ground
86 - to brake wiring on car.
30 - to IGN + 12v
87a - to tcc wire/PCM
The TCC wire is located on the blue connector pin 33

[smokedat]

if you are rinning a switch you can use one of these TCC/BRAKE SWITCH KIT
$21.99 SKU: KIT-1002

[jnmanz28]

Nice build!!!

[Mjminino]

[smokedat]

So I dynamated the firewall then I did 1/4 dynaliner. Needed to do this before finalizing the brake set up. What a relief she fits.No issues with clearance. took some phone pics. Will update with better pics.

[smokedat]

I just need to make the lines from cab to the prop. valve. I got a new flaring tool from Ridgid the mastercool is nice but bulky no good for flaring in tight spaces.
Il let u know how I like it, mini review. As for the hose lines from the Hydroboost I will run those on driver side once the engine is in so I know the lengths

[smokedat]

RIDGID 33927 Flaring/Cutting Kit.
Will let u know how it works out.

[smokedat]

so i got around cutting and bending the lines to proximity, from the prop valve i did 3 90's at 2" 3" 4". and i only flared one .The ridgid works well it locks the tube firm and does not damage or leave marks. It’s the non ratchet type u stop turning once the flare die meets up with bar, you then remove the die and continue to press in the cone a second time. i managed to flare without a vice but its alot easier with one. i only dynamated the firewall so i could advance on the brakes. i will do the rest later.

[smokedat]

so i finally got around to the gas tank. i ended up using some swagelok compression fittings in the sender and regulator they use a double ferrule system vs the cheaper single. Flex lines out of the tank, from there hard lines. I wont be able to do this until engine is in so i know how long to make them. i used the original tank mounts i just cleaned them up a bit and i also painted the tank shield with some textured paint. I used hose clamp separators at the end i used a longer bolt through the frame to secure it

[smokedat]

got the brake puzzle finally complete. everything in cab is in and torqued. will finish off the dynamat after paint.

[smokedat]

I started this ambitious build back in late 2009 after what seemed an eternity and almost impossible feat i have finally reached the point where i am ready for paint. Shooting it with PPG Jet Stream Blue WA512Q and clearing it with Glasurit 923-200

[smokedat]

So I installed some sacrificial wheels for the paint proces. I had to remove rotors and calipers to fit these.

[smokedat]

I did the PCV conversion to eliminate hoses from valve cover to cover and back to intake manifold. Straight forward process all u need to do is cut the block flush down to the depth given. I also installed a new oil pan gasket and topped it off with fresh oil and some zinc rich break in additive. I also drilled and tapped harmonic balancer for the billet cover. Prepping last minute engine work so I can drop in once fire wall is painted.

[smokedat]

Not my pics but good example

[smokedat]

http://ls1howto.com/index.php?article=18

Full article on how to here ☝��

[808_67C10]

I could go through this thread all day, I am in... amazing work so far.

[Dads79GMC]

Originally Posted by 808_67C10

I could go through this thread all day, I am in... amazing work so far.

808_67C10, you are absolutely correct on your comment. This build thread is one of those that I have continuously referred back to over the years, but apparently have never commented on or subscribed to??????? Great work going here..an encyclopedia of tactics, techniques and procedures!!! Hooah! Mike

[smokedat]

Thank you

Originally Posted by 808_67C10

I could go through this thread all day, I am in... amazing work so far.

[tinydb84]

I remember when you stopped posting and wondered what happened. So many great threads on this board its hard to keep track.

Your photography skills are amazing.

Which break mount is that? I have been playing with the idea of going under my dash to clean up my firewall some more.