Another way to skin the cat; the High Torque 292 LS swap

[findog78]

Originally Posted by dayj1

and more...

That fuel set up is sweet! I've been reading through this forum for weeks reading up on on how to do the fuel return issue for EFI. That's the cleanest one I've seen to keep my tank. Where do I buy all those pieces?

[findog78]

Well I found the Tanks, Inc link in your thread. Where would I get the electrical lead pieces for the bulkhead? Thanks.

[aggie91]

Originally Posted by findog78

Well I found the Tanks, Inc link in your thread. Where would I get the electrical lead pieces for the bulkhead? Thanks.

I think he made his own, but here are a few links of a quick online search...

https://www.efihardware.com/products...head-terminals

http://www.vpw.com.au/Category/Index/340230

https://rebling.com/product/copper-bulkhead/

[solidaxel]

Just make sure you secure the bolt on the inside of the tank "in case the other guy removes both nuts" to tighten the wire lug on the post!
I am open to suggestions on what to use in a wet fuel environment

[dayj1]

Originally Posted by findog78

That fuel set up is sweet! I've been reading through this forum for weeks reading up on on how to do the fuel return issue for EFI. That's the cleanest one I've seen to keep my tank. Where do I buy all those pieces?

Originally Posted by findog78

Well I found the Tanks, Inc link in your thread. Where would I get the electrical lead pieces for the bulkhead? Thanks.

Tanks, Inc (as you found) for the mounting ring parts. They sell the parts for far less than I value my time

I buy the tubing at NAPA because they're the only local supplier that sells tubing that isn't coated and I think the zinc plated steel and/or Nickel-Copper line looks more period correct on an old car/truck.

I buy almost all of my fittings at http://fittingsandadapters.com That's where all the tube nuts and JIC (AN) fittings came from.

I made the electrical bulkhead and replacement fuel sender plate on my lathe because the price for fuel bulkheads from any supplier that I've found is ridiculous for what they are. It's made of nylon which isn't affected by gasoline.

Originally Posted by aggie91

I think he made his own

Correct

Originally Posted by solidaxel

Just make sure you secure the bolt on the inside of the tank "in case the other guy removes both nuts" to tighten the wire lug on the post!
I am open to suggestions on what to use in a wet fuel environment

The bulkhead is threaded such that the stainless stud is screwed into/through the nylon. I get what you're saying, but someone would really have to try to screw it up even if they removed the locking nut. That said, nothing is fool-proof when you have a sufficiently talented fool.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by dayj1

.....The bulkhead is threaded such that the stainless stud is screwed into/through the nylon. I get what you're saying, but someone would really have to try to screw it up even if they removed the locking nut. That said, nothing is fool-proof when you have a sufficiently talented fool.

This is soooooo true. It sucks too. We have to create SOP's @ the manufacturing plant where I work for equipment operation, cleaning, & adjustments.

The 'sufficiently talented' group you speak of constantly create (force?) revisions w/these SOP's.

[buddylee]

Why can't I see the pictures

[mongocanfly]

he used photosucker for his pics...there's something you can do with your computer that allows you to see them but I'm no computer guru and I don't understand it...put (photobucket) in the search...we have a thread on it how to fix it...

[mongocanfly]

here's a couple I have handy of his setup

[gringoloco]

Few more. I have lots on my computer. Best swap ever...

[sprint_9]

I wanted to add that the radiator hose information was spot on. I crossed those numbers to a Gates hose and it worked great on my truck. Saved me a bunch of searching.

[dayj1]

Originally Posted by buddylee

Why can't I see the pictures

PhotoBucket quit supporting third party hosting a while back and created broken links across the interweb, I've attached an overall shot of the motor below.

Originally Posted by gringoloco

Best swap ever...

LOL. Thank you for the kind words!

Originally Posted by sprint_9

I wanted to add that the radiator hose information was spot on. I crossed those numbers to a Gates hose and it worked great on my truck. Saved me a bunch of searching.

I'm glad it helped.

[garmar]

Awesome build!

As to the great Photobucket debacle, there's an extension you can add if you are using Chrome Browser called Photobucket embedded image fix. It works great and I've had zero issues with it for over a year now.

[jjzepplin]

Just read through this and it gave me goose bumps. (is that ok?) That is one beautiful setup! So you could run a carb with a MAF sensor adapted on top of it? I have a 99 TA 5.7 and T56 I want to put in my 72 Blazer. I am probably going to use the stock harness. Man those wires are intimidating! I redid both harnesses on my trucks using stock stuff and that scared my neighbors (HAHA)!

[dayj1]

Originally Posted by jjzepplin

That is one beautiful setup!

Thanks!

Originally Posted by jjzepplin

So you could run a carb with a MAF sensor adapted on top of it?

That could work. You'd need to block the fuel inlet(s) and you'd need a TPS sensor adapted to your carb. The tune would be a bit more difficult. Enough so, that, if I were using a carb as a TB, I'd probably just go speed density and skip the MAF altogether.

[ls1nova71]

Glad to see the pictures are back! Any idea why?

[mongocanfly]

I've been wondering about pics as well....I'm not seeing the pb crap anymore anywhere.....

[gringoloco]

Shhhhhh... we shouldn’t mention it, else they may disappear again... Save ‘em while you can.

[Dads79GMC]

dayj1, I ran across your thread in the middle of receiving ordered parts for the same type build (just a couple nights ago). I love the way you did the MAP on the TB!! My one question is this; what did you do with your Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor? My tune is a speed density closed loop. On newer MAF sensors, the IAT is a part of that component.....based on my research.

Your thread has helped enormously, thank you. I plan on doing my MAP just like you did.

Below is a pic of the factory location of my IAT. Help

Thanks Mike

[dayj1]

Originally Posted by Dads79GMC

dayj1, I ran across your thread in the middle of receiving ordered parts for the same type build (just a couple nights ago). I love the way you did the MAP on the TB!! My one question is this; what did you do with your Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor? My tune is a speed density closed loop. On newer MAF sensors, the IAT is a part of that component.....based on my research.

Your thread has helped enormously, thank you. I plan on doing my MAP just like you did.

Below is a pic of the factory location of my IAT. Help

Thanks Mike

Thanks for the compliments! My IAT was built into the MAF, but you could just put it in the base of the breather (with the sensor element inside the breather). The factory IAT grommet should even work for a clean install.

[Dads79GMC]

I truly appreciate the quick response!!! I think I've got it figured out now The grommet recommendation is a great idea!!! I had another question but just had a senior moment!!! Thanks Mike

[ls1nova71]

ItHis truck has a MAF sensor mounted under the Intake so the IAT is mounted in that. On mine I went SD so I added the sensor to the underside of the air cleaner.

[Dads79GMC]

Perfect! What I'm doing is in the 78 link below....critiques are welcome. Thanks for the help fella's. Mike

[ls1nova71]

I tried to find a pic of mine but cant find one. I took an IAT out of a late 90's gm car and put it in a grommet like Jonathan mentioned.

[Dads79GMC]

Now I remember! How are your truck injectors working in the fuel rail and intake. I did the same thing as you and cut-down the LS1 brackets. Great idea! Mike