Frame coatings

[Robert Martin]

What do you guys coat your frames with after blasting them? I've thought about powder coating, but not sure if that is the right idea. Also has anyone ever coated the inside of their floors or the underside of their cabs with Bedliner?

[projectking]

3 coats of SPI epoxy

[HO455]

Do a search for " powder coating frame". You will find several threads on it. Here is one to start. The same thing for the undercoatings.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=648348

[irl104]

I used Chassis Saver.

[Jason Banks]

Originally Posted by projectking

3 coats of SPI epoxy

I second this. But I didn't 3 coat. 2 max and top coated it with Medallion MRS-4200 Satin Black

[darrellyates]

Originally Posted by Robert Martin

What do you guys coat your frames with after blasting them? I've thought about powder coating, but not sure if that is the right idea. Also has anyone ever coated the inside of their floors or the underside of their cabs with Bedliner?

I've done several different things. I had one powder coated. It looked great. Downside was rock chips or scratches can't be touched up. Painting over it just doesn't look right. Also, tends to brittle up with time.

I've painted with POR 15. KBS Coatings makes a good alternative. Cheap, strong, flexible. Can be touched up easily. Not quite as tough as powder coat, but doesn't brittle up over time.

And, I've simply wet painted in both chassis black and body color. I use single stage urethane. Easy to touch up, but tough to keep clean. Can be polished and painted on again. Not as tough as the other two, but looks really classy.

Take your pick... Least expensive was likely the POR 15. A quart and a bunch of small brushes does the entire frame. Self levels, was very easy to do. I still use this to touch up bolts and various frame bits.

Good Luck! Remember, you asked for opinions... This is just my opinion of my experiences...

[Robert Martin]

Originally Posted by darrellyates

I've done several different things. I had one powder coated. It looked great. Downside was rock chips or scratches can't be touched up. Painting over it just doesn't look right. Also, tends to brittle up with time.

I've painted with POR 15. KBS Coatings makes a good alternative. Cheap, strong, flexible. Can be touched up easily. Not quite as tough as powder coat, but doesn't brittle up over time.

And, I've simply wet painted in both chassis black and body color. I use single stage urethane. Easy to touch up, but tough to keep clean. Can be polished and painted on again. Not as tough as the other two, but looks really classy.

Take your pick... Least expensive was likely the POR 15. A quart and a bunch of small brushes does the entire frame. Self levels, was very easy to do. I still use this to touch up bolts and various frame bits.

Good Luck! Remember, you asked for opinions... This is just my opinion of my experiences...

opinions are welcome that's why I'm asking, but I'd like to get blast the frame and spray coat it not brush it. So what would be the best spray coating? All of the above? I've decided that powdercoating might not be what is best after realizing most trailers are powder coated and the after effects of long time use. They look like crap after a few years and I do not want to have to do this again other than possible touchup.

[CastIron]

I would probably just use paint myself. I've painted things with Rust-oleum and had them sit outdoor for years without rusting.
I have a question for those that used POR 15. If you lift the truck does it get leave marks where it contacts the frame?

[darrellyates]

Robert:

I've sprayed POR 15 and used a brush. Really, brushing is about as easy as spraying and looks as good. The downside is it takes time. The upside is, you use a LOT less product.

You have to remember that POR 15 and/or the KBS coating product are not like typical paints. They are heavy, and you thin them with Zylene or the special thinner provided by the company (Zylene based I'm sure). Only thin about 10% tops for either one.

They set up by absorbing moisture. So, any moisture in the air line will start the process in the gun, likely ruining it. I just buy cheap guns at Harbor Freight and if I have a problem, throw it away.

You can do either way. Don't discount the 'ole paint brush (a cheap one) with POR 15, as it self levels and will lay down and look great! And, it's easy to do one side of the frame, turn it over after it dries, and do the other side. Plus, if you miss a spot, simply brush it on and it will self level and hide the spot. Just remember to only use these products on area that will not see sunlight, as they will discolor over time in direct sun only. If you're using them on anything that sees sun, you have to topcoat. KBS also makes a DTM product for top coating. Others will have more experience than I do with this, but I'm doing the subframe on my next project (1970 Camaro) with this rather than powder coating. I like this process.

Thanks,

DY

[darrellyates]

Originally Posted by CastIron

I would probably just use paint myself. I've painted things with Rust-oleum and had them sit outdoor for years without rusting.
I have a question for those that used POR 15. If you lift the truck does it get leave marks where it contacts the frame?

I use rubber pads on the lift and on the jacks. No, it does not leave a mark...

DY

[darrellyates]

A POR 15 frame, painted with a cheap brush...

[darrellyates]

And, the current project. Wet painted with single stage urethane. I tried to load both pix in a single reply, but got an error message about "missing a security token"...

this was the only way I could get them to load. Sorry for the double reply.

Just follow directions however you choose to do it. It will work, and look great!

DY

[notsolo]

My latest project, Sprayed 2 coats Eastwood black epoxy . 2 coats Hamerite black.

[Robert Martin]

Originally Posted by notsolo

My latest project, Sprayed 2 coats Eastwood black epoxy . 2 coats Hamerite black.

No primer?

[Alex V.]

On the one I did last year I layed down two coats of Transtar 2K epoxy and a couple more of Rust-oleum satin black tractor enamel. Got a good result that I think will last quite a while.

[Alex V.]

Originally Posted by Robert Martin

No primer?

Epoxy acts as the primer. Everything I can find points to epoxy being one of the best products to adhere to and seal bare metal.

[sick472]

I am a big fan of using industrial enamels or single stage urethanes on the frame. I guess because I am not going for high end show quality and I don't want to spend a lot of time making it "shine" my vehicles get driven when the weather is decent and I am not going to crawl around under them cleaning up all the water spots.

A few coats of industrial enamel is pretty cheap on the frame and I really like using rustoleum on the underside of the floor pans, wheel wells, and wherever. I usually spray the first coat, but then follow up with a few coats of brushing to get some thickness to it and tie in the tight spots.

My theory on anything under the truck is "thick and heavy and satin". If you have every seen where the factory got a big run of paint, say on an inner fender, the area where the paint was one layer thick may be all surface rusted, but where the run is, the steel will still be protected and take some extra effort to strip off. Hence the "heavy" part of my theory. I like using satin paint just because it does not draw attention to any flaws and can be touched up with a brush. I can't tell you how many times I had to touch up the under side of a recent project due to scratches that happened during the assembly process.

If the vehicle is a trailer queen, seriously consider powder coat or another high end system, if not, two or three coats applied to properly prepped steel will be far better than anything I have seen from the factory.

If the truck will be concourse correct, then barely give it any paint and make sure you overspray in all the right places.

I sand blasted my frame and then used several cans of brake clean to wash it down the day that the self etching primer and paint was applied. Obviously, sand dust and residual oils can thwart your efforts. Prep is key regardless of the paint used!

[Snake72]

I sandblasted my frame and coated with POR15 brushed on. Lays down great and levels out awesome. I did not topcoat, hoping the finish doesn't discolor. Time will tell how durable it is.

I replaced my whole cab floor, rockers, pillars, cab corners and coated the top and bottom of the floor with raptor liner. It looks awesome, feels like line X. $120 buys plenty of material and the spray gun, super easy to apply

[russgoodman]

I planned on doing powder coat, but changed directions and will do mobile dustless blasting and SPI epoxy. I've used it enough on other projects and my cab most recently, and it is some really good stuff. I do believe Barry recommends 3 coats on frames.

https://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/

[harpo231]

Used Kevlar® from Dupont on mine !

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...96681879668187

[notsolo]

Epoxy is DTM, direct to metal...I did use metal prep, Phosphoric acid, paint over it after it drys. POR 15, and several other company's sell it. Post some photo's when you get it going.

[Robert Martin]

Originally Posted by notsolo

Epoxy is DTM, direct to metal...I did use metal prep, Phosphoric acid, paint over it after it drys. POR 15, and several other company's sell it. Post some photo's when you get it going.

I will be happy too once I get it started. Thanks for the info

[Robert Martin]

This gives me good info to start with. Thanks for all your info on this question.

[special-K]

The chassis coating products such as POR-15 are made to level out when brushes to look smooth as sprayed on. The reason many prefer brushing over spraying is use of materials. When spraying you will be blowing a lot of material past the frame wasted into the air. Brushing puts virtually all material on the project and one coat equals multiple sprayed coats.

[sick472]

Another good reason for brushing on POR 15 is the fumes. The warnings on that stuff clearly states that you will DIE if you merely read the label. Well, not really, but you won't catch me spraying that stuff. I brushed on about a quart in an open shop and the fumes were not bad, but spray painting is a whole lot different. You would also want to prep the night before and start applying the Por-15 first thing in the morning so that it can tack up and take a second coat. If it sits too long, you will have to sand it to take the next coat.