Have to slam doors to close all the way

[cgster]

I installed my cab weatherstripping yesterday, when I go to close the doors I have to slam the door really hard to get it to close. Before I put the weatherstrip on it currently had none at all because I replaced the rocker panels a while back, but the doors were lined up good. Should I mess with trying to realign the doors or will that not help? I do not want to mess with the alignment and screw anything up worse if that wont fix it to begin with.

[davepl]

I used a brand called "Soft Seal" (google it) because their whole marketing slogan is "Don't Slam That Door". And it lives up to its slogan, the doors close easily and yet seal well.

But in your case I'd guess there's some location where it's getting pinched and you'll have to align the doors now with the weatherstripping on, but that's just a guess...

[harpo231]

They will improve with time and use....

[LockDoc]

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Try moving the striker plate out a bit. Be sure and mark around it with a fine felt tip marker first so you can tell how far you have moved it. Only go about 1/16" at a time and don't let it move up or down, just out.


LockDoc.

[pilotXC]

You can try cracking the window as well to let the air escape from the cab when you shut the door. Mine does the same with new weather strip and it isn't nearly as bad with a window cracked a bit... As the other post said, it will get better as well.

[HO455]

As LockDoc said try adjusting the striker plate. On my Burban the side door hinges aren't worn too bad but the new seals seemed to force one of the doors to hit the striker differently than before and prevented it from closing easily. It is possible the PO had adjusted it to compensate for wear and old seals, but irregardless I had to move the striker around after new seals on the right side door. If memory serves me correct it had to be shifted up. I put some grease on the striker and was able to see where the door latch was hitting before I moved it.
Good luck.

[jamyers]

If your doors are aligned properly and/or you don't want to disturb them, you can do like I did once I installed the Durango weatherstripping in our '69.

At least, on ours the window section wasn't causing the problem, it was along the lower and rear sections of the door opening, from about 6 inches below the window to about 6 inched from the front of the sill.

Pull the weatherstripping off the pinchweld lip it installs on, and take a 6 to 8 inch long piece of wood (2x4 works well) and a heavy hammer. The goal is to move that lip inwards just enough to let the door close snugly without having to slam it. If I recall, I moved ours inwards maybe 1/8 inch, and it made a HUGE difference.

Note: After all new weatherstripping, if the side vents are closed it also helps a lot to crack a window - I'm surprised at how much resistance the air has to closing a door!

[Jim Boy]

From what I understand the original fit was not perfect. Apparently the doors were not flush with the rocker panels when they left the factory. When we restore these things we want them to be perfect and that is what causes these problems. Moving the doors out a bit and cutting a notch in the weatherstripping to allow the air out will help, of course like mentioned, the rubber will ease up after a while. That's when your problems really start. Retraining the wife not to slam the dam door is almost impossible! Good luck eh!

[demian5]

Hmmm

[ZEKE68]

My doors are a lot easier to close with the window open a little. Guess thats why the put the door jamb vents in starting around 1970.

[Hart_Rod]

You can put a little ArmorAll on the door and seal to help a little while the seals get "broken in".

[CC69Rat]

Where do the weatherstripping seams join? So, from where did you start the install and finish? I usually start at the middle of the rocker and work my way around the door, then meet back up with it.

The reason I'm asking is if the ends meet up and you have them pretty tight against each other, .. when your door closes the gasket cant really squish out and take that 'sealed' shape vs. open / Not sealed shut. What I do is cut a small (maybe 15 deg angle) to the ends where they join. It doesnt have to be drastic and I start the angle from the top toward the bottom of that seam. So, in other words you wouldnt be able to see that small gap. It would be tucked a little bit underneath it. You just want a little air space in between the ends.

It will make a world of difference in the doors .. I promise.