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#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Sherwood Park, Alberta
Posts: 19
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control arm help
I am installing some 2.5" drop spindles with disc brakes onto my 67 c10, my drivers side lower control arm is bent and i am having a hard time finding a replacement. I am in canada and i am getting shipping times of over 4 weeks for a replacement set. I can find lower control arm for a 73-87 c10 i am just wondering if i go with those do i have to get the uppers also? Are the 73-87 lowers longer from the shaft to the balljoint that would throw the alignment off where they couldnt fix it? Or can i just put in the 73-87 lower control arm with a 67 lower balljoint?
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#2 |
Post Whore
![]() Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Portland Oregon
Posts: 11,084
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Re: control arm help
The 73 and later are different in that they are mounted with rubber bushings on a shaft and not on a shaft with metal bushings. My understanding is if you did want to go the 73 and up route you would have to swap your entire front cross member to a later one. Upgrade your member ship and post a want to buy and I'm sure one of your Canadian neighbors will respond.
And welcome aboard!
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Thanks to Bob and Jeanie and everyone else at Superior Performance for all their great help. ![]() RIP Bob Parks. 1967 Burban (the WMB),1988 S10 Blazer (the Stink10 II),1969 GTO (the Goat), 1970 Javelin, 1952 F2 Ford OHC six 4X4, 29 Model A, 72 Firebird (the DBP Bird). 85 Alfa Romeo If it breaks I didn't want it in the first place The WMB repair thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=698377 |
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#3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Space Coast, Florida
Posts: 403
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Re: control arm help
You do not have to change the front cross member to install the 73 - 87 front control arms. They bolted right on my 68. I don't know if they should be mixed with the steel bushing arms. Should be changed as a whole set. The only issues I have found with using them is that the control arm shafts are both a little longer and bigger in diameter on the ends. Only was a problem for me where the V8 exhaust pipe runs down on the left side, it is a lot closer to the rear end of the control arm shaft.
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1968 SWB Step Side, Big Block, 4L80E , Running! Last edited by ZEKE68; 06-21-2018 at 09:39 AM. |
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#4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Space Coast, Florida
Posts: 403
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Re: control arm help
Pictures
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1968 SWB Step Side, Big Block, 4L80E , Running! |
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#5 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Space Coast, Florida
Posts: 403
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Re: control arm help
Forgot to add that the 73 to 87 control arms also use a different ball joint. The spindles, stock or dropped are different for the 67 to 72 and the 73- to 87 due to the different ball joint sizes. If you go with 73 to 87 control arms you would need the dropped spindle for a 73 to 87, which is what I did. This may affect your decision since you already have the earlier spindles.
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1968 SWB Step Side, Big Block, 4L80E , Running! |
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#6 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Sherwood Park, Alberta
Posts: 19
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Re: control arm help
Quote:
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#7 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Space Coast, Florida
Posts: 403
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Re: control arm help
I changed uppers and lowers, as well as the spindles and brakes. I run 73-87 ball joints and outer tie rod ends and 67 to 70 inner tie rod ends with an adaptor tie rod adjuster nut for the different sized threads. Using the stock 68 center link for the streering. With disc brakes you have to use an adaptor hose for the front brakes. or convert to late model brake lines.
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1968 SWB Step Side, Big Block, 4L80E , Running! |
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#8 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: washington
Posts: 5
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Re: control arm help
use the 73-87 lower arms, you will need to know what spindles you have 71/2 or 73 on and get the ball joints to fit the spindle, all c-10's have the same ball joint hole upper and lowers so you're good there, you will need the outer tie rod ends also and those are bigger than yours, I just generally grab all the steering linkage and the control arms at the wrecking yard when I go to do this,
If you want to keep the 6 lug , use the rotors off a light duty C2500 from 94-96 i think is the years they're the same 1.25 thick rotor and uses the same bearings |
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