properly installing new torque converter

[68jimmy]

I'm sure this has been discussed before but I was unable to locate any previous threads. I have a new torque converter and a freshly rebuilt th350 that I will hopefully install over the weekend. What is the proper method of installing the converter? I've read from other discussions that it must be installed correctly or the pump will be damaged... Do I need to put trans fluid in the converter prior to install? Any help appreciated!

Thanks!

[crazy longhorn]

you should dump a quart of fluid in the converter so it doesnt startup dry. as far as install,silde it on & rotate it till you feel it set in place a couple times(once on the spline, & once on the pump tangs). if in doubt, lay a straight edge across the front of the trans, & measure how far the converter "lugs" are from the front of the trans case....if memory is with me, it should be about 1 1/4". when you set the trans & converter in place, you should have 3/16-1/4" clearance tween the flexplate, & the mounting lugs on the verter.....if you have to force it to bolt up, the converter is not seated into the pump(stop & fix that problem right away!). best of luck,crazyL

[LONGHAIR]

If you don't have it in the pump lugs properly the transmission won't go on the engine. It will hold the bellhousing away from the block. When it fits right, you should have to push the converter toward the flexplate before bolting them together.

[Randy70C-10]

If properly aligned, the torque converter will alomost push completely against the tranny. I'd put at least 2 quarts or fluid in before installing. Keep newspaper under it in case you spill a little fluid out of the converter when you tip it upright.

[68C15]

you should not be able to fit your fingers between bottom of verter & front of casting. first put 2 Q of fluid in & slowly stand upright

[68jimmy]

Thanks for all the great information! Any tips on a brand of ATF?

[Longhorn Man]

If you have the cash, go with mobile one. Way better than any 'normal' ATF, and costs quite a bit less than the other full synthetics.
The Synthetic fluid is not only smoother, (for lack of better terms) but it helps tremendously with controlling the temperature in the tranny, which is the #1 killer of an automatic.

[68jimmy]

Thats all I needed!

thanks again...

[junkyardjohn]

Originally Posted by Longhorn Man

If you have the cash, go with mobile one. Way better than any 'normal' ATF, and costs quite a bit less than the other full synthetics.
The Synthetic fluid is not only smoother, (for lack of better terms) but it helps tremendously with controlling the temperature in the tranny, which is the #1 killer of an automatic.

DON'T USE ANY TYPE OF SYNTHETIC TRANNY FLUID FOR THE FIRST 500 MILES OR DURING THE BREAK IN PERIOD. I'VE PUT IN A RASH OF TRANNYS LATELY (FOR OTHER PEOPLE) & EVERY TRANS REBUILDER OR NEW MANUFACTURER I'VE DEALT WITH STRESS THE FACT THAT IF SYNTHETIC FLUID IS USED DURING THE BREAKIN PERIOD WILL VOID THE WARRENTY. ANDYS RIGHT ABOUT THE HEAT BEING A TRANNYS WORST ENIMY THOUGH. A TRANS. TEMP. GAGE IS A WORTHWILE INVESTMENT, & I PUT ONE IN EVERY ONE OF MY TRUCKS THAT I RUN AN AUTOMATIC IN. JOHN

[Longhorn Man]

John, thanks. I have honestly never heard that one.

[jescates]

Never heard that either about voiding the warranty. When I put the last trany in, I dumped a couple of quarts of synthetic in. Haven't had a problem as of yet. Fingers crossed.

[Blue Beard]

Where does the temp gauge hook into the tranny..?

[LONGHAIR]

I have never heard that about Auto transmissions either. The problem I have with that idea is....... how are you supposed to change it? You cannot mix synthetics with normal fluids. Once your torque converter is filled with normal ATF you really have to remove it from the truck to drain it. You can't get even close to all of the fluid from the transmission from the pan.

[junkyardjohn]

Originally Posted by Blue Beard

Where does the temp gauge hook into the tranny..?

I WELD A BUNG (OR FITTING) THAT A TRANS TEMP. SENDING UNIT WILL SCREW THRU, RIGHT IN THE PAN. IF YOUR TRANS. TEMP. GETS OVER 195 DEG. IT'S TIME TO GET CONCERNED. IF IT GETS OVER 225 DEG.S .... IT'S TIME TO PULL OVER & LET IT COOL OFF. A GOOD TRANNY COOLER (NOT ONE OF THE CHEAP $29 PEP BOYS MODELS) IS EXCELLANT INSURANCE AGAINST TRANNY FAILURE. ( I JUST REPLACED A TRANNY IN A 94 2WD S15 JIMMY A COUPLE OF WEEKS AGO. $1280 TO HAVE IT REBUILT & $490 LABOR FOR ME TO R&R IT. SO FOR $1800 I'D SURE TRY TO MAKE IT LAST AS LONG AS I COULD) ALSO... AFTER 500 MILES ON A NEW TRANNY.... CHANGE THE FILTER, & PUT NEW TRANNY FLUID IN THEN. NOWS A GOOD TIME TO PUT IN SYNTHETIC FLUID. DON'T WORRY ABOUT GETTING ALL OF THE DINO TRANS FLUID OUT, AS MOST SYNTHETIC FLUID (AT LEAST RED LINE, B&M TRICK SHIFT, & MOBILE 1 ) IS COMPATABLE WITH NORMAL OLD ATF. JOHN

[Class of 69]

I drill and tap a 1/8 pipe thread drain plug into one of the three bosses that the converter lugs are welded onto to drain the converter. Use a brass pipe plug, as it is lighter than a steel one, for balance. I learned this from a competent trans man 30 years ago, and he did it to every trans he overhauled. Only takes an extra ten minutes the first time and allows complete changing of the fluids. It's messy to drill it the first time full, but the fluid helps flush the drill chips out, not in. If you drill it dry, fill the flutes of the bit, and tap, with chassis grease to retain the chips on the bit, and hold the converter up, so the chips fall down , not into the converter.

[junkyardjohn]

Originally Posted by Class of 69

I drill and tap a 1/8 pipe thread drain plug into one of the three bosses that the converter lugs are welded onto to drain the converter. Use a brass pipe plug, as it is lighter than a steel one, for balance. I learned this from a competent trans man 30 years ago, and he did it to every trans he overhauled. Only takes an extra ten minutes the first time and allows complete changing of the fluids. It's messy to drill it the first time full, but the fluid helps flush the drill chips out, not in. If you drill it dry, fill the flutes of the bit, and tap, with chassis grease to retain the chips on the bit, and hold the converter up, so the chips fall down , not into the converter.

I ALSO UNHOOK A TRANS LINE AT THE RADIATOR, & LET THE TRANNY PUMP PUMP OUT MOST OF THE FLUID. YOU'LL GET OUT BETTER THAN 90% THAT WAY. JOHN