'50 chevy 3100

[Matt_50]

I'm burrowing a flaring tool from a friend. He can't remember if he got it from speedway or Eastwood. Thing is awesome to use. 2 step process. First makes a bubble I think and 2nd makes the double flare.


Started to sprinkle outside some so I messed with the driver door instead of doing the rear brake line today. Can't believe the outer door skin is fine. I expected it to be pretty bad but barely any surface rust inside. Cut out bad section, ground the edge of some channel locks to a sharp point and started bending the lip up to get the leftover piece out.

[8man]

Good job on the door.

[Matt_50]

My welding isn't the prettiest, especially on sheet metal but I think the retainer will cover it up if I cant get it to look perfect. I'll get plenty of practice, the passenger door has a layer of bondo over that area too.

[mongocanfly]

That's a good flare tool...I dont think it came from Eastwood because it says kti on it...my Eastwood looks exactly like it though...and it works great...

[Matt_50]

Door patch is looking good. Got it fitted in place to see where I need to trim it up.

[8man]

Good start on the patch. I just finished 2 of those.

[Matt_50]

Same spot? I tried searching for anyone who did a similar fix bit no luck. The only trouble is the lip that folds over from outer skin. It'll look rough but at least it will be covered up by seal.

[8man]

Take a look at my thread. You can weld at the lip and grind it down to make a smooth finish at the fold. You are lucky that is the only rust out in the door. I had to do door skin too. We could have an off line conversation about MIG welding on thin sheet metal if you like. I have had some great help from people on here, and I am doing much better at the weld and finish as a result.

[Matt_50]

just looked through your thread. Your patching and welding skills are awesome! I may have to PM you for welding advice. I'm outside and using a cheap flux core, but I'm getting better, maybe I can invest in a better welder and get more experience in by this summer. I hope to get a shop by then.

[mongocanfly]

get rid of that flux core wire and your welds will be much better

[Matt_50]

I was told that it would be a waste to get it now because I am outside and any little wind would mess up the gas. Is this true?

[mongocanfly]

I weld outdoors and in front of fans all the time...ive had no issues...I wouldn't say it will never affect it but...you know how that goes

[Matt_50]

Really?? Maybe I should've gotten a second opinion a long time ago. I was looking at the Lincoln Handy k2185-1 or Hobart Handler 140.

[Clarance J]

Hello Matt_50.
When I had to weld outside and had any wind condition I just put up something to block the air flow. It doesn't take much. Try it and see what you think. Experiment. You will find out what you can do or not do.

[mongocanfly]

ive got a Hobart handler 175....good welder...but I tell you one im seriously thinking of buying is a vulcan ....from of all places harbor freight (but not a hb brand)it will mig/tig/stick on 110 or 220....I work at a big company and they've started replacing the millers with these...and I have to say that thing welds much smoother than my Hobart...the welders at work like them so well they've been buying them for theyre own personal use..

[Matt_50]

No kidding?? Anything electric from HF I expect to break sooner than later. Welder im using is from there. Decided to buy Lincoln wire from lowes one day instead of the HF stuff and was amazed at the difference just the wire made.

So their Vulcan brand is something to look into? I'll look up reviews. Which one are you looking at?

[8man]

You will be amazed when you go from flux to gas and you get some .023 Easy Grind wire, your welds will automatically improve. Then the "grinding" which is really just removing the proud of the weld to smooth the finish back down will make the work so much better. I've got the little Lincoln 140, 110V unit and it works well on the truck parts.

[mongocanfly]

The Vulcan omni pro is the one I'm looking at...at hf it's about 950 now....they had a sale back last fall for about 825.....its not a hf brand...they just happen to sell them.....
Has 1yr no fault warranty...one they have at work a guy layed down the mig stinger in the floor and it got run over by a forklift....they took the stinger back and was just gonna buy a new new one....hf said NO....bring the whole welder back....gave us a brand new welder....hard to believe but that's how it went.....
Im trying to get my IH done....but before I start on my AD I will have one of the vulcans....
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=9NAnSGOD8uA

[Matt_50]

Got a new toy from HF. Pneumatic flanger and hole puncher. Works awesome. Used it on the door patch and it fits in real nice. I know butt weld is supposed to be best but I'm still learning and that's a long seam to weld. I'll get some weld through primer on way home tomorrow.

[dsraven]

make sure to tack the seam together in a bunch of different places before starting to weld for any length of time. then weld a bit here and a bit there and let the weld cool before you carry on. if you don't the weld seam will look like a dog's hind leg. it will warp all over the place. if you don't do a bunch of quick tacks first to get the seam stuck from one end to the other the 2 pieces will start to warp and separate from each other. if planning an overlapping seam then you could use sheet metal screws to hold things together the whole length, then weld and remove screws as you go. only weld an inch or so at a time and make sure to let it cool so it is the same as the rest of the panel before doing another weld. have another project on the go to keep you busy and not be tempted.

[Matt_50]

I'm doing a lap weld and the flange tool made it to where its level across the two pieces. I know what you mean about needing another project at the same time. I did this during my cab corners.

[Matt_50]

On all the lap welds I've seen throughout the truck, there are spots welds where they overlap. Is it OK to copy this or should I weld the whole length of the seam? If I do a bunch of spot welds, the top piece needs to be punched or drilled every so often right? how far apart and how big should the holes be?

[dsraven]

that is how new vehicles are assembled as well but they also use adhesive in the seam along with the spot welds. with that said I would think if you spot welded, or basically drilled through the top layer like you said, every couple of inches, like the factory did, you should be fine. use seam sealer to keep the weather out on both sides of the seam. less welding=less possible warpage. small sections at a time with spot welds may make for a nice flat panel. if you are drilling holes anyway they could be used as screw holes or cleco holes to hold the panel in place while tacking. those holes would go right through both panels then of course.
when welding ensure to cut the wire each time for a nice chisel tip to strike the arc with. also ensure the steel is clean on both sides so no contamination gets in and causes porosity (bubbles in the weld), then paint and seam seal. a gas mig weld would definately make a nicer weld than the flux core. experiment some with how big you need to make the hole to weld through so you get the knack for attaching the weld puddle to both pieces. lots of those plug welds look great but only attach to the top piece of metal so there is no integrity. in that case it would be better if the part was simply rivetted using the proper rivet tecnique and composition of rivet of course, like aircraft.
see my example of how I used cleco's on the rear floor panel. like a spot weld done through each cleco hole. I did have to drill each cleco hole a bit bigger to get a decent weld through and be sure to check the back side to see if you have made penetration enough to sort of bubble the metal on the back side of the weld. otherwise you may just be filling the top side hole and thinking it is all good. sometimes the cleco "through hole" makes it easier to see that the weld puddle did attach to the bottom panel. practice makes a better "project" job for sure.
just my 2 cents.

[dsraven]

seam sealer comes in caulk or brush style. sometimes brush style could be better because it can go on thicker with better control. use the tape idea and then cut down a plastic putty knife to make the contour you like so it feathers out to the edge, that way your seam sealer looks like it is proffessionally done.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KysXj_PfIAE

[Matt_50]

I like cleco's haven't used them in a long time. I think I'll get some just to have some. What size do you use most of the time? 1/8, 3/16?