I just want to replace my split rims on my 1970 C30

[JJ55chevy]

Bear with me, I am getting frustrated looking for answers to what I thought was a simple question.

I bought a 1970 1 ton 2 wheel drive truck because I thought it would be perfect for pulling my enclosed trailer around town. I am content with the drum brakes since I have trailer brakes. All I want to do is replace my split rims. It has a 6" bolt pattern with a 4.56" center and 1/2-20 studs with flat faced wheels (no taper lugs). Is there not a simple formula to replace them? I would be happy if I could atleast get the front two done but I would still need to address the back 4. I am starting to wonder if I am the first one doing this. Here is a list of options I have gotten so far, none of them really appeal to me:

A: I picked up a set of newer wheels but the lug holes are 5/8" dia. The options I have been told on them are

1) install them with bigger flange lug nuts (and disregard the holes being larger than the studs)

2) fill the void with a bushing.

3)use a taper lug nut. (these are not tapered wheels)

4)use a Ford style 2 piece lug nut, but I have not found them in the 1/2-20 size.

5)use bigger studs, can the hubs on the front and back be drilled?

6)replace the front hubs( but no one knows where these magical hubs come from)

7) replace the front end and do disc brakes while I am at it, that will take care of the front but what about the back. I don't want to turn this into a major project, it is a driver.

8) contact the lug nut king and ask them for something that would fit, tried that 2 weeks ago and never heard back from them.

9) use a newer style flange. good advice it if came with a part number but will the stock studs be long enough? and do they work on a non tapered wheel? and did we forget that the studs are 1/2"?

B:buy new wheels. I have looked high and low but not found any wheels that would work with the 1/2" studs.

C: find a dealer that works on split rims, I am starting to believe that their existence is an urban legend.

PS: I bought the truck to use as a workhorse, 350 4 speed solid bones for basic means, I do not want to open a whole can of worms putting tires on it.

[HO455]

This thread should help. Just as you thought you are not the first one down this road. If you want more information do a search for C30 wheels.
Industrial tire shops would be the place to get split rims done. Semi trucks, fork lifts and lots of off road equipment still use split ring wheels.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=285970

[JJ55chevy]

Originally Posted by HO455

This thread should help. Just as you thought you are not the first one down this road. If you want more information do a search for C30 wheels.
Industrial tire shops would be the place to get split rims done. Semi trucks, fork lifts and lots of off road equipment still use split ring wheels.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=285970

thanks for the info. I saw that thread but they do not go into much detail about what studs to use and if the fronts are the same as the back or not. I am more familiar with the 1/2 ton trucks so I am not sure what is involved to drilling out the rear drums. If I remember right the rearend pretty much has to come apart, ie: axles,drums etc....I also saw they were talking about using the splits on the inside rear for some reason...that puts me back to where I am by not having any local shops that do split rims. Thanks again for the insight!!

PS: I tried the local semi truck tire dealer and they pretty much gave me a solid NO and didn't know where I could turn.

[HO455]

I would send a PM to the member (CCCC) in the last post who said to if anyone had questions about how to convert to later wheels.
Full floating rear ends are pretty easy to pull apart to take the hub off and get the studs replaced. There are a lot of videos that can walk you through the process.

[JJ55chevy]

Originally Posted by HO455

I would send a PM to the member (CCCC) in the last post who said to if anyone had questions about how to convert to later wheels.
Full floating rear ends are pretty easy to pull apart to take the hub off and get the studs replaced. There are a lot of videos that can walk you through the process.

message sent and crossing fingers!!

[Sheepdip]

Here's how mine are done, with a little math it can be solved.
Decide what rims you are using steel or aluminum and if you are using a clamping ring put it in the equation.

Buy these type of lug nuts they come in different shank lengths and you may get lucky with a factory length or have a machine shop shorten the shank if you don't have access to a lathe, be sure and slightly chamfer the ends. Make sure the shank will go thru your wheel stud opening with clearance, mine do, if not have a machine shop open the holes up for you.

The shank length will be everything combined less 25-30% of your (rim only) wheel mounting surface thickness, so it will be just shy of bottoming out on the hub/drum assembly on your front rims when everything is tight, and the same 25-30% on your inside rear dual rim wheel mounting surface thickness.
The finished result will be your lug nut and bushing combined with clearance for the clamping effect. Your rears will be longer than the fronts because of 2 rims. Because your rims are hub centric the rears are very easy to align the holes and lug nut shanks when installing.

It's very easy to do

Mine are mid 90's Ford Alloys with a steel ford inside rear dual all mounted with 1/2"-20 shank style lug nuts
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...MYZ934IA&psc=1

[JJ55chevy]

Originally Posted by Sheepdip

Here's how mine are done, with a little math it can be solved.
Decide what rims you are using steel or aluminum and if you are using a clamping ring put it in the equation.

Buy these type of lug nuts they come in different shank lengths and you may get lucky with a factory length or have a machine shop shorten the shank if you don't have access to a lathe, be sure and slightly chamfer the ends. Make sure the shank will go thru your wheel stud opening with clearance, mine do, if not have a machine shop open the holes up for you.

The shank length will be everything combined less 25-30% of your (rim only) wheel mounting surface thickness, so it will be just shy of bottoming out on the hub/drum assembly on your front rims when everything is tight, and the same 25-30% on your inside rear dual rim wheel mounting surface thickness.
The finished result will be your lug nut and bushing combined with clearance for the clamping effect. Your rears will be longer than the fronts because of 2 rims. Because your rims are hub centric the rears are very easy to align the holes and lug nut shanks when installing.

It's very easy to do

Mine are mid 90's Ford Alloys with a steel ford inside rear dual all mounted with 1/2"-20 shank style lug nuts
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...MYZ934IA&psc=1

I finally found a solution for the fronts. I will probaly use your idea for the backs. I bought 16 lug nuts for th front, Dorman part # 611-088. They have a wide flange to them but the shank it too wide, I turned them down on the lathe to 5/8" and the fit like a charm!

[Madkidd007]

So I immediately googled the part number and looks like a great solution. Just like a stock flange but now. I screenshot this because I’m sure people would like to see the part you purchased

[JJ55chevy]

Originally Posted by Sheepdip

Here's how mine are done, with a little math it can be solved.
Decide what rims you are using steel or aluminum and if you are using a clamping ring put it in the equation.

Buy these type of lug nuts they come in different shank lengths and you may get lucky with a factory length or have a machine shop shorten the shank if you don't have access to a lathe, be sure and slightly chamfer the ends. Make sure the shank will go thru your wheel stud opening with clearance, mine do, if not have a machine shop open the holes up for you.

The shank length will be everything combined less 25-30% of your (rim only) wheel mounting surface thickness, so it will be just shy of bottoming out on the hub/drum assembly on your front rims when everything is tight, and the same 25-30% on your inside rear dual rim wheel mounting surface thickness.
The finished result will be your lug nut and bushing combined with clearance for the clamping effect. Your rears will be longer than the fronts because of 2 rims. Because your rims are hub centric the rears are very easy to align the holes and lug nut shanks when installing.

It's very easy to do

Mine are mid 90's Ford Alloys with a steel ford inside rear dual all mounted with 1/2"-20 shank style lug nuts
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...MYZ934IA&psc=1

Originally Posted by Madkidd007

So I immediately googled the part number and looks like a great solution. Just like a stock flange but now. I screenshot this because I’m sure people would like to see the part you purchased

LOL...thanks for posting a picture of them since I have no idea how to do that.....that is exactly what I bought...just had to mill them down a little and they fit nice, thanks for your help!!

[Sheepdip]

Originally Posted by JJ55chevy

I finally found a solution for the fronts. I will probaly use your idea for the backs. I bought 16 lug nuts for th front, Dorman part # 611-088. They have a wide flange to them but the shank it too wide, I turned them down on the lathe to 5/8" and the fit like a charm!

That will work just fine....nothing handier than a little lathe!