Factory sway bar for 4WD with leaf spring - need help, pictures

[Terrysch]

Need help from the square body forum,

Have a 72 Jimmy. Want to add a front sway bar. Have researched and it looks like a 73-87 factory sway bar will work. But need the factory leaf spring perches too for mounting the back ends of the sway bar.

But might need the front crossmember too to mount the front of the sway bar.
But not thrilled about removing the current 67-72 front cross member because it has the large factory rivets. Doing the work to remove the rivets not an issue for me. Don't want to replace that tight riveted joints with bolted joints.

Looking at different ways to mount the front of the sway bar. Make a custom brackets to mount to the current crossmember?
Possible to use part of the 73-83 crossmember and weld it to the current cross member?

Would really appreciate if some forum members with front factory sway bars on their 4x4 s with leaf springs would post some pictures of the mounting of the sway, especially the mounting of the front of the sway bar to the crosss member.

Would really appreciate the help, pictures.

Terry

[mongocanfly]

actually you need the u-bolt plates for a sway bar...not the spring perch..
i just took one off the other day or i could show you a pic of it installed...i believe i would get it in place and the see where the front bushing mounts need to be...if possible id leave the crossmember alone and add a mounting bracket..
this is what all the parts look like

[Terrysch]

Greg,

Thanks for the reply and input, advice.
A bracket is the way I am leaning.

Yes, a pic or a couple of installed pics would be great.

I also really screwed my text on the perches. I actually meant the u-bolt plates on the leaf springs. Leaf springs are totally new to me including the terminology. Thank you for correcting me.

Terry

[sweetk30]

when i swap out riots i do a 7/16" drill bit threw the hole as 3/8" is sloppy in the hole . then i go get grd 8 7/16" bolts with a long smooth shank and washers to get it just right and let it fill 90% of the hole on all pieces being bolted . then i use stover nuts / crimped lock nuts NOT lock washers or nylock . i have yet to have one come loose on me .

[Terrysch]

sweetk30,

Thanks for the install input.
To make sure I understand what you do and recommend let me summarize.

You drill out the four bolt holes on each of the u-bolt plates to the increase the bolt diameter, and also use bolts of a greater diameter.
You do this to get a tight fit again of the bolts inside the bolt holes? Correct???

Based on the bolt length you listed.

Do you do this because the holes in the u-bolt plates have ovaled in the same direction of the leaf springs, vehicle?

[rgunlock]

I suspect sweet meant rivets rather than riots.

[Terrysch]

rgunlock,

Thanks. Believe you are right. I reread sweet's note.
He wrote 7/16" bolts that are Grade 8 level.

sweet - my apology for my poor reading skills. I now understand your note.

Terry

[sweetk30]

no problem you got it now .

as for axle u-bolts i always go 5/8" rod as it gets you more clamping force and stronger u-bolt . and the tend to fit in stock u-bolt plates just fine or need to just be opened a hair bit.

[Terrysch]

sweet,
Thanks for the additional u-bolt advice.
Your input is good common sense, hands on, mechanical input.
With this approach, I am now going to seriously consider changing out the front crossmember to the 73-87 crossmember.
Terry

[Terrysch]

sweet/ all.

The approach of oversizing holes that have become ovaled is also how hoodhingerepair.com refurbishes hood hinges. I have talked to him personally.
Knows what he is doing. I am going to have him do my hinges.

In fact, a previous owner put on an aftermarket hinge. Yuck! After talking to him I did an online salvage part search, and bought a nice "A" quality hinge.
So I can have him do both hinges/sides and get rid of the aftermarket hinge.

When you oversize, it does take away some strength from the original design.
BUT, these designs have design margins( overdesign in layman's language). This small strength loss is much less important than getting a tight joint again on our older, vintage trucks.

Terry

[rgunlock]

Terry, you'd originally asked for pictures showing how the swaybar mounted. Maybe you don't need them now that you've decided to try using the 73-87 crossmember, but I took some of my 1978 K15. First pic is from the front. Next 2 are both sides from nearly underneath. Last is from behind and over the front axle. Last is how mine mounts to the u-bolt pad for the springs.

Non stock stuff in the way is my ORD steering gearbox brace and ORD quick disconnects that I really only got to get a better angle on my swaybar after a 4" suspension lift. Hope these help.

[Terrysch]

rgunlock,

THANK YOU!!!!!!!
Those are exactly the pictures that I needed.

Not only do I clearly see how the sway bar mounts, I can also see the differences in the two front cross members between 1967-71 and 1973-87.
Which is a second thing I was looking to see and understand.

I have everything I need to go ahead and put a 73-87 sway bar on my 72 Jimmy.

Very much appreciated!

Terry

[Terrysch]

Rgunlock,
Do you have the ORD disconnects on the u-bolt sides of your sway bar?
It looks like it in your pictures.
If you do, how do you like them?
Terry

[rgunlock]

Terry, the disconnect is the part circled. There is a similar one on the other side. It connects into the original hole for the swaybar on the pad that sits on top of the leaf spring pack.

I've never actually used it to disconnect the swaybar. Closest my truck has been to offroad since I finished building it is if I've wandered off the edge of the pavement The reason I got it is because it lifts the back of the swaybar a couple inches above stock. That takes a bit of bind off the swaybar due to the 4 inch lift. Without it, my ride was not only bumpy on rough roads, but more jarring on each bump if that makes sense. Now I still bounce all over but don't have to clench my gut so much!

[sweetk30]

i have them also for lift correction mostly on my k30 with 3" lift .