Blueballz build thread

[ironadict]

Originally Posted by gigamanx

Dang! Do you ever worry about catching some hot welding sparks in that beard?

I’ve smelt burning beard a few times. Usually if I’m doing overhead I’ll tuck it in my jacket or something. It’s survived about 4 years of hotroding and building trades so far though knock on wood, cross fingers and pet my lucky rabbit foot

[ironadict]

Finally completed my brake lines. Now to pull it apart and bench bleed the master. Then I can finally have working brakes on her.

[lower50's]

That will be a good feeling, One more thing off the list.

[Sal's '55 Chevy]

i was wondering whats the number to the water pump hoses you used on your truck ans loving this build truck is coming together nice.

[ironadict]

Originally Posted by Sal's '55 Chevy

i was wondering whats the number to the water pump hoses you used on your truck ans loving this build truck is coming together nice.

Thanks. So believe it or not I think I used 21710 gates for both upper and lower. You’ll have to cut different sections off for upper and lower to get the right angles but they worked good. It’s a little loose on upper water pump connection but once clamped down its all good.

[ironadict]

Got inner fenders cut painted and hung. Comp to tank plumbed. Bled master and brakes. Pedal still goes all the way to the floor. Thinking I need to do a lot more bleeding at calipers. I went till I didn’t see bubbles but I think it may be necessary to push more fluid through to get the bubbles out. Any input from someone more knowledgeable on brakes than me would be great. Got gauges mounted in dash. Steering wheel on. A lot more wires to clean up.

[ironadict]

Me and my little helper got a lot done. Outer fenders hung. Man what a task trying to get these to line up half way decent. I purchased a complete front end hardware kit and so far I’ve only used like 4 of the bolts. Nothing in the kit fits!! Luckily we have a local ace in town that has an amazing selection of hardware.
Also sandblasted the hood hinges painted and mounted them. Finally almost looking like a truck again!

[Sal's '55 Chevy]

Originally Posted by ironadict

Thanks. So believe it or not I think I used 21710 gates for both upper and lower. You’ll have to cut different sections off for upper and lower to get the right angles but they worked good. It’s a little loose on upper water pump connection but once clamped down its all good.

i appreciate the reply ill take a look at the hose number and see if it works for me as well, who you get your radiator from? i got mine from kss on ebay and i notice it sticks out a lot toward the engine. By the way this is a project im working on for a buddy of mine.

[dsraven]

on the brakes:
I see a firewall mounted master cylinder so assume you have done a check to ensure a full pedal stroke yields a full master cylinder stroke as well. if you haven't done that check then start there. a low pedal during set up may result in not enough stroke of the actual linkage to yield a full stroke of the master cylinder.
some info on the rear axle brakes would be good. we could read back through your thread but that takes time. last I seen you had "thrown" and axle under it to move it around. anyway, disc or drum back there?
-adjust the pedal and linkage to the master correctly so you have free play at the pedal and also at the pushrod to the actual master cylinder from the booster. sometimes these seem to get mismatched at the supplier so just ensure the pushrod length of the booster is correct for the master you are using. if the pushrod is too long it won't allow the master cylinder piston to retract far enough to get a refill of fluid when the brakes are released and can result in a low pedal
-if you have drum brakes anywhere on the unit ensure they are in good shape and adjust the service brakes with the park brakes backed off, then adjust the park brake. this will adjust the star wheel adjuster end of the brake shoes to fit the drum first without the park brake/wheel cylinder end of the shoes interfering with that, then the park brake adjustment will adjust the wheel cylinder end of the shoes so the wheel cylinder piston stroke will be less and there will be a "higher pedal". step on the brakes after, set the park brake a couple times and release, then retry the adjustments. sometimes guys will adjust the drum brakes but not apply the brakes during this and in some cases the shoes drag on the drums because they don't get a chance to recenter themselves. also check the backing plates for grooves where the shoes rub against them. a groove will allow the shoe to drop into the groove and not be able to come back out with the shoes return spring pressure. this keeps the shoes off center as well so hard to get an adjustment.
-do yourself a favor and bench bleed the master cylinder until no bubbles come out of the bench bleed hoses. you may have to walk away for a bit because air in the fluid tends to stay in suspension for a bit so you end up putting that bubbly fluid back into the cylinder if you don't let it settle out. the other option is to put the bench bleeding hoses into another container and just keep filling the master after each stroke of bench bleeding
-ensure the ports of the master are connected properly to front and rear according to the supplier. if disc front and rear ensure you have the correct master cylinder with no residual valve in the port to the rear brakes. the master cylinders are different for disc/drum and disc/disc. drum brakes have the res valve pressed into the outlet of the master usually. also ensure the master has the correct piston bore for your system. a small bore will yield less fluid delivery per stroke but easier to push pedal. a larger bore will deliver more fluid but less brake application pressure given the same pedal effort. also a "higher pedal" under the same circumstances because it delivers more fluid per stroke.
-fill master reservoir, place lid on but don't tighten up so it can vent easily
-if no knowledgeable helper is available pick up a one man bleeder kit or build one yourself and set it up on the bleeder screw that is furthest away from the master cylinder. understand how the one man bleeder works and try for a nice tight seal on the hose to bleeder screw. don't unscrew the bleeder too much or air can get sucked in around the bleeder screw threads.
-open bleeder screw on the rearmost, furthest away, wheel (measured in brake line/hose length). bleed brakes until clear, no bubbles in fluid.tighten the bleeder screw securely
-go to next furthest away bleeder screw, do the same. ...and so on for the rest. ensure you check the master to keep it full so you don't suck any air in when you release the pedal. if you do suck air in, start over from scratch on the bleeding.
-does this yield a brake application that is not spongy and within a normal range for pedal travel?

[dsraven]

nice fan shroud. I do notice, though, that the shroud goes under the top tank and appears to extend back into the fin area. just ensure it doesn't come too close to the rad fins or it may rub a hole. better to find out now and modify than later and buy a new rad first.

[ironadict]

Originally Posted by Sal's '55 Chevy

i appreciate the reply ill take a look at the hose number and see if it works for me as well, who you get your radiator from? i got mine from kss on ebay and i notice it sticks out a lot toward the engine. By the way this is a project im working on for a buddy of mine.

I like your style. I got
Mine from auto city classics. Looks like the same unit. Only problem I see is that your throttle body looks like it’s angled up more than mine. Are you putting a filter right on it or using an elbo and pipe?

[ironadict]

Originally Posted by dsraven

on the brakes:
I see a firewall mounted master cylinder so assume you have done a check to ensure a full pedal stroke yields a full master cylinder stroke as well. if you haven't done that check then start there. a low pedal during set up may result in not enough stroke of the actual linkage to yield a full stroke of the master cylinder.
some info on the rear axle brakes would be good. we could read back through your thread but that takes time. last I seen you had "thrown" and axle under it to move it around. anyway, disc or drum back there?
-adjust the pedal and linkage to the master correctly so you have free play at the pedal and also at the pushrod to the actual master cylinder from the booster. sometimes these seem to get mismatched at the supplier so just ensure the pushrod length of the booster is correct for the master you are using. if the pushrod is too long it won't allow the master cylinder piston to retract far enough to get a refill of fluid when the brakes are released and can result in a low pedal
-if you have drum brakes anywhere on the unit ensure they are in good shape and adjust the service brakes with the park brakes backed off, then adjust the park brake. this will adjust the star wheel adjuster end of the brake shoes to fit the drum first without the park brake/wheel cylinder end of the shoes interfering with that, then the park brake adjustment will adjust the wheel cylinder end of the shoes so the wheel cylinder piston stroke will be less and there will be a "higher pedal". step on the brakes after, set the park brake a couple times and release, then retry the adjustments. sometimes guys will adjust the drum brakes but not apply the brakes during this and in some cases the shoes drag on the drums because they don't get a chance to recenter themselves. also check the backing plates for grooves where the shoes rub against them. a groove will allow the shoe to drop into the groove and not be able to come back out with the shoes return spring pressure. this keeps the shoes off center as well so hard to get an adjustment.
-do yourself a favor and bench bleed the master cylinder until no bubbles come out of the bench bleed hoses. you may have to walk away for a bit because air in the fluid tends to stay in suspension for a bit so you end up putting that bubbly fluid back into the cylinder if you don't let it settle out. the other option is to put the bench bleeding hoses into another container and just keep filling the master after each stroke of bench bleeding
-ensure the ports of the master are connected properly to front and rear according to the supplier. if disc front and rear ensure you have the correct master cylinder with no residual valve in the port to the rear brakes. the master cylinders are different for disc/drum and disc/disc. drum brakes have the res valve pressed into the outlet of the master usually. also ensure the master has the correct piston bore for your system. a small bore will yield less fluid delivery per stroke but easier to push pedal. a larger bore will deliver more fluid but less brake application pressure given the same pedal effort. also a "higher pedal" under the same circumstances because it delivers more fluid per stroke.
-fill master reservoir, place lid on but don't tighten up so it can vent easily
-if no knowledgeable helper is available pick up a one man bleeder kit or build one yourself and set it up on the bleeder screw that is furthest away from the master cylinder. understand how the one man bleeder works and try for a nice tight seal on the hose to bleeder screw. don't unscrew the bleeder too much or air can get sucked in around the bleeder screw threads.
-open bleeder screw on the rearmost, furthest away, wheel (measured in brake line/hose length). bleed brakes until clear, no bubbles in fluid.tighten the bleeder screw securely
-go to next furthest away bleeder screw, do the same. ...and so on for the rest. ensure you check the master to keep it full so you don't suck any air in when you release the pedal. if you do suck air in, start over from scratch on the bleeding.
-does this yield a brake application that is not spongy and within a normal range for pedal travel?

Thanks for taking the time to write all that. The firewall mounted brake system is a full kit from cpp so I would hope the leverages all work together well. I will check on stroke amount though. As for brakes I have disks all around front and tears are all from late 80s early 90s gm type cars. I bench bled the master for a long time. Tilted it a few ways and bled some more. I don’t see any wet spots luckily so hopefully no leaks.
I did run all 3/16” brake lines. From what I read that was perfectly acceptable. When I bled them at caliper I enlisted my wife’s help so we were ina bit of a hurry. Hopefully that’s all it is.

[Sal's '55 Chevy]

Originally Posted by ironadict

I like your style. I got
Mine from auto city classics. Looks like the same unit. Only problem I see is that your throttle body looks like it’s angled up more than mine. Are you putting a filter right on it or using an elbo and pipe?

im using an elbow due to the year of the motor and the maf sensor type.

[ironadict]

Grill on. Cooling fan wired. Accuair wired. Radio in still isn’t wired. If anyone is using an American auto wire kit and doesn’t like the non stock looking billet knob they provide for their headlight switch I found out that if you buy the repop headlight switch shaft and knob on eBay it comes with a stock knob with a set screw. So you can take it off and use it on the American auto wires headlight switch shaft. At least it shows a set screw in the pics.
Still haven’t been able to get a firm pedal. I’m about to put some cialis in my brake fluid and see if that helps. I bought a vacuum bleeder and tried that. Didn’t do ****. Seems like it just sucks air from around the bleeder screw each time I crack it. I read that you need to use a proportioning valve tool for bleeding these combo valve set ups. You unscrew the warning light switch and screw in this plastic piece that colds the piston in place and prevents it from tripping when you bleed the brakes. Anyone know about this? I ordered one and I’ll see if it works. Of course the people who make them say it’s impossible to bleed it without one.

[Rickysnickers]

I have one of those little centering tools for the prop valve. You can have it if you like. PM me your mailing address and I'll send it out as soon as I am able to.

[ironadict]

Originally Posted by Rickysnickers

I have one of those little centering tools for the prop valve. You can have it if you like. PM me your mailing address and I'll send it out as soon as I am able to.

Thanks for the offer rickysnickers. Mine just got delivered today. Have you used it? Did you find it necessary for proper bleeding?

[Rickysnickers]

Originally Posted by ironadict

Thanks for the offer rickysnickers. Mine just got delivered today. Have you used it? Did you find it necessary for proper bleeding?

I did use it and it worked fine. I later swapped out the fixed prop valve for an adjustable Wilwood kit.

[Sal's '55 Chevy]

thanks for the information i bought the radiator hose and it worked out great.....for both top and bottom.

[62 Barnfind]

What steering wheel are you running? Mooneyes 13 or 15?

[ironadict]

Originally Posted by 62 Barnfind

What steering wheel are you running? Mooneyes 13 or 15?

It’s a moon eyes California 15” 3 spoke

[ironadict]

Originally Posted by Sal's '55 Chevy

thanks for the information i bought the radiator hose and it worked out great.....for both top and bottom.

Good to hear brother.

[ironadict]

Blue belle

[Sal's '55 Chevy]

looking good hopefully your on the road soon must be an exciting thing for you knowing its getting closer and closer.

[ironadict]

Originally Posted by Sal's '55 Chevy

looking good hopefully your on the road soon must be an exciting thing for you knowing its getting closer and closer.

Thanks. Very excited man. I plan on having it a driving work in progress for the swanx fall fiasco on oct 12th.

[ironadict]

All the air ride is plumbed finally. No more temp manual valves. It adjusts under its own power now. Decided to throw some wire loom over the exposed air line. I think it looks good and it adds a little protection to the lines.